vidextreme

Looks like a bubble algae. Don't worry, this type of algae is less aggressive(doesn't spread) and is actually aesthetically nice for the tank.

I think that's a bit uncalled for, don't you think? Anyway, happy reefing!

You can add... Establish a good natural nutrient transport/absorbing system. - introduce easy to harvest and acceptable aesthetically looking algae to compete with the nuisance algae. This can also include mangrove and other plants. - use clams (or oysters, I tried that in my old system, though I heard they are good in consuming nitrates but also too much calcium).

Just an important note when fragging or 'trimming' zoanthids... pls pls plssss handle with care. Not for the zoas sake, but for your own. Zoanthids, not sure if all or some, contains one of the most toxic substance! Here's an important read... http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/resources.asp?show=16

Hmmm... not sure where you have gotten your numbers considering like you said, not much information on garlic. Maybe info for aquarium feeding but general info is more than sufficient. Taken from wikipedia... "When crushed, Allium sativum yields allicin, an antibiotic[79] and antifungal compound (phytoncide) discovered by Chester J. Cavallito and colleagues in 1944. Fresh or crushed garlic also affords the sulfur-containing compounds alliin, ajoene, diallyl polysulfides, vinyldithiins, S-allylcysteine, and enzymes, B vitamins, proteins, minerals, saponins, flavonoids, and Maillard reaction products, which are not sulfur-containing compounds. Furthermore, a phytoalexin (allixin) was found, a nonsulfur compound with a γ-pyrone skeleton structure with antioxidant effects, antimicrobial effects,[80] antitumor promoting effects,[81] inhibition of aflatoxin B2 DNA binding,[81] and neurotrophic effects. Allixin showed an antitumor promoting effect in vivo, inhibiting skin tumor formation by TPA and DMBA initiated mice.[81] Analogs of this compound have exhibited antitumor promoting effects in in vitro experimental conditions. So allixin and/or its analogs may be useful compounds for cancer prevention." Thanks however on the info on Aegis, worth reading on the future tech on aquaria feeding. However, it really proves the point that the best solution in safe guard our precious water breathing pets is to improve and maintain their health. The best, in my 2cent worth opinion, against ich or any infestation compare to quite harmful implication and risk with chemical solutions. My personal experience with pellet that contains garlic, has drived and kept ich tank-overtaking at bay for 5+ years now since last incident (with different fish). This, I only say, for what it's worth, of course.

I'm not too sure NSW will be safer. But it make sense that sudden water parameter changes AND composition may shock or stress the living stuff in the tank. But I agree sudden water changes have some effect on microorganisms in tank and in the bio filter media as well.

Hi bro, I didn't soak pellets with garlic. I just fed pellet that comes with garlic already. And I did try to dose garlic into tank directly, didn't work.

I tried hyposalinity and and slightly Copper though half way through the treatment, I read about the danger of copper when exposed to certain metals becomes toxic so I stopped. Btw, dosing garlic doesn't work, at least I tried that as well. But with food infused with garlic, worked like a charm. The reason why I still would recommend garlic in pellets is its the only treatment I know of that has no detrimental effect with other fish, critters, especially corals. Copper dosing has to be done properly, otherwise I heard some horror stories with it. So no, I still prefer the o' natural garlic.

Unfortunately, based from what I read and personally experienced, once tank is infected, rocks, sand, and fish most likely will carry over to renovated or even to new tank. The solution to ich is not really hard to find actually. Forget about dosing something to tank or chemical dips, those things will work only up to a certain extent. The solution is building up your fish's health and immune system. And the magical ingredient is, what our mothers or grand parents taught us. Garlic! I've tried everything I could find as the 'recommended solution' for ich, none works except when I tried to feed my fish food that includes garlic in their ingredient. Works so magically, signs of ich decreasing over night after first feeding. Though, every once in a while when a fish gets a bit under the weather, 1 or 2 ich latch on it, but don't last long. It shows two things. One, garlic still works. Two, unfortunately, ich still present in tank. And even to fish I migrated to 2 different tanks gets it every once in a while.

Good parameters, just what I expected. My guess is ammonia is just present due to residue of prawn. But with the 0 nitrite, that means nitrite eating bacteria is established by now. Do a continuous dose of Microbacter7 and drop a bit of Reef Fuel this time. And I would dare guess by tomorrow or the next day ammonia would be zero. Do you get bubbles when you plow the sand? When ammonia is zero, you can introduce fish now. One or two should be a good start. But if you want to add more live rocks, you might hold on putting the fish at least allow the nutrients and decomposing stuff on the rock to be handled by the tank. You can also introduce your clean up crew (hermit crab and snails) as you add rocks. You don't have to wait for nitrate to be zero. I read an article regarding this (forgot to book mark it) which disputes the idea that the cycle of a tank includes the nitrate zero due to it's unpredictable pattern. That article even goes on to say that complete cycling actually includes the maturity of a complete tank(with fish, corals, etc) and nitrate being stable to low is only attained, without any special means, not less than 2 years. This means cycling a tank to prepare to accept bio load, stops and means ready when nitrite is zero. Some reefers easy to conclude that stagnant growth of corals are due to elevated nitrate, which I do not agree and this article does not too. More about this in due time. (done too much ranting hehehe) In short this article is saying, ignore nitrate and be done with it. For now, glad to be of help. Please update us on your progress.

Hi bro, I noticed you are using Synthetic Vinegar. To be honest, I have no prior experience with dosing vinegar to my tank. But just curious, if it makes any difference to use natural vinegar instead? Since synthetic vinegar is most likely acetic acid, would it be safer to use the naturally fermented rice/sugar cane vinegar? Any thoughts on this?

Bro, try Brightwell Potassion comes in powder and liquid form. http://brightwellaquatics.com/products/potassiont.php http://brightwellaquatics.com/products/potassionp.php Contains potassium chloride and potassium sulfate

How old is you tank? Typically what I do when nitrate is high, I just don't feed the tank. I then replace my carbon source (plastic pellets) and/or dose Reef Fuel and bacteria dose. That way I try to lower nitrate naturally at first. If it persists, then I feed the tank drastically less than before. No, frozen fish unless fish can finish it all. I also dose iron supplement to induce cheatos growth so they absorb the nitrate faster as they flourish. If still doesn't change, which seldom happens, that's the time I'll consider water change. But small portions only. The 2+ inch sand band btw, well, it's really an estimate. This is dependent on the size of sand granules and/or composition. Yes, let it settle down first. Never give up. We're here for you bro!

I like the natural light look (personally don't like tank too blue). Here...take my "Like" I actually like the algae build-up in the middle. Makes the tank look more natural. Good job bro!

Sorry, bro. Don't give up, though. You can look at this as an opportunity to reset and make it better. I don't think it's caused by the vinegar (btw, I'm just curious.. did you use the artificial acetic acid vinegar or natural distilled vinegar? Though no point at this time, but it could be a useful insight. ) It's most likely a hydrogen sulfide poisoning. By it's name, yes hydrogen sulfide and it's sulfur brothers such as sulfur dioxide are toxic. I'm totally against siphoning the tank's substrate and rather use snails or starfish to sift the tank for me. The reason being is, first, sand beds are NOT producing nitrate out of thin air(or water) and don't really require cleaning(at least for saltwater tank). If we got some elevated nitrate level, it only means we fed the tank more than we should or our bio load had exceeded our bio filtration capacity or something recently died and decomposed in the tank and not because our sand bed is evil and needed to be cleansed by our holy siphon tube . Hydrogen sulfide and sulfur dioxide are released naturally if our sand bed is healthy. Typically, these sulfur gas/metal are trapped 2+ inches below the sand where there is low oxygen availability. This is due to decaying matter being trapped there in that anaerobic environment where sulfur bacteria decomposed it. Natural sand sifters will slowly release this trapped gas or metal form that's how nature works. And that's why I don't eat snails and sea cucumbers, because I know exactly why they are 'delicious' . Siphoning the substrate however will have a greater chance of trapping more organic stuff that we don't want, because the more we trap the more sulfur gas has to be released. Concurrently, by siphoning, we release and exposed too much of this sulfur stuff. Which can cause critters/fish death and might be the cause of your tank crashing. Btw, hydrogen sulfide is even poisonous to us humans. This is why people who knows this will discourage tank being placed in a low ventilated area. For us here in Singapore, it's a bit hard to do, considering most tanks are in an airconditioned room. The solution is opening the window regularly and let the natural air comes it... good for us humans too!