samuel88

erm, its not written on the bottle, i guess around 250 ml? i've only used it 4 to 5 times on a 20 gallon nano tank.

ok, currently reserved, if not collected i'll let you guys know, thanks for the interest.

Exactly, My phosphates too low after using this. Haha.

Selling because switching to biopellets, about 90 % of the bottle left, going for 26

i don't think you should add any livestock just yet, best solution find some buffering solution to boost your alkalinity. for example seachem carbonate

i always wonder how come they never cycle the tank.

well, other than Jireh Marine, i may go to aquamarin on certain occasions.

i got mine from homefix, alot of DIY shops should have.

you must also take into account the noise that is produced, as for the inlet and outlet size i believe there are some accessories that can connect a smaller to bigger diameter pump. I'm using a Dymax pump but my main issue is a little bit of vibrating noise. quite minimal but its there, however its cheap, if you can afford i would definitely recommend Eheim, it is a very reputable brand, people have said they are silent, and reliable which are two very important things to take note.

Hi everyone, just wanted to do a review on API test kits. Ammonia: Pros: Cheap, simple instructions. Cons: I don't know if its just me, but i find that the color of the solution always seems a bit hard to match to the chart. especially from 0 to 0.25PPM which is quite an important range for ammonia, as even a 0.1 ppm is bad. Nitrite: Pros: Cheap, simple instructions. Cons: none that i can think of, nitrite isn't really an important thing to test, so not many people test for it all the time, so a cheap kit like this is good. Nitrate: Pros: cheap, seemingly simple instructions Cons: for solution 2 that you drip into the water sample you have to shake it vigorously for 30 seconds, and after that you need to shake the water sample for 1 minute, this is a bit of a hassle, and you never know how hard you really have to shake it. Overall: i think that the API test kits are cheap, and not so daunting to beginners who are hesitant to blow so much money over test kits alone. However i cannot judge the accuracy of the test kits because i don't have another test kit to double check.

Hi everyone, recently i've been reading up about bio pellets and fluidized bed reactors. I just want to know what everyone's opinion is on the matter, do they cause more harm than good? e.g i read they can cause cyano,bacterial blooms, people's tanks not looking so good after using it. etc etc. i want to increase the biofiltration capacity of my tank without taking up so much space. so is this a good piece of equipment to have? Thanks.

And dealing place Thanks.

Hi I'm looking for a media reactor for either bio or chemical filtration media, my tank and sump is about 2 feet, 25 gallon, so I don't need a huge reactor. Pm me your reactor model, any defects and price. Thanks.

So the only reactor that is different is the calcium reactor? Cause that one pumps carbon dioxide in in addition to tumbling the media?

Hi everyone. I've seen reactors before but I'm not sure exactly what they do. Do bio media, Phosban and calcium reactors work the same? If not what are the differences? I wanna know why they cost so much if all they seem to do is tumble media around,

you can actually just DIY it, just buy a fish tank, glue the glass dividers on yourself. for me i didn't even bother getting dividers.

for me, i used something that was 30X my flowrate, but i have a adjustable flow valve to control the flow, which turned out to be a wise move, because when i let my return pump run at full capacity the splashing noise was a bit too much for me, but that's just my way of doing things. hope some more experienced person can give you better advice.

well, i don't just want anaerobic, but aerobic bacteria as well. even if there isn't much water flow would there still be aerobic bacteria on the rocks? yup i have lighting in the sump. i don't exactly know everything that deadspots do, but i just heard that they're bad.

but its also good to try to prevent deadspots right?

icic, ok i'll manually remove them.

I use it, it seems to be working for me.

Hi guys i have a sump with about 5 to 6 kg of live rock, without sand. the only equipment in there is the return pump and external protein skimmer my current turnover rate from the sump to the display tank is about 10x or maybe less? the volume of my sump. 15 gallon tank, 10 gallon tank. However there is not much wave or flow motion through the sump. so my goal is for there to be aerobic as well as anaerobic bacteria on the live rock in my sump, so is what i'm doing currently enough? or do i need to add flow (and not just turnover) to the sump? Thanks.

ok, i've decided to stuff my sump with liverock, so i added in about 5 to 6 kg of live rock into the sump. i shifted all my anemones into the display tank, and i think because of the nature of the mini maxi's i might not be able to keep fish, maybe not even clowns, but i'll opt for anemone shrimps instead. meanwhile, the sump shall be for the frogfish, the protein skimmer is also located in the sump, so perhaps it will alleviate the waste from the frogfish faster.

oh yes, i forgot to mention that, i have about 1-2 inch of sand, and for the rocks, well, i didn't record how many pounds, so here is a picture. in my sump i only have a handful of liverock rubble. There's alot of microalgae i know, which i think is why my nitrates are so low, i'm hesitant to remove them manually however as i feel they are part of the ecosystem/bio stability and will fade in time. i'm afraid about not having enough surface area for bacteria too, i wanna add liverock in my sump but do i need strong flow there as well? don't really wanna add another powerhead if possible, worried about overloading the power outlet. do let me know if you think i have enough surface area for bio filtration and what i can do. i'm thinking of moving all the anemones into the display tank or sump as i have thought about the safety of the frogfish.

They're quite hardy i think, so the only way they would be used as a indicator was if they all started dying, then you would know there's something REALLY wrong with your water.