braincoral

should i just break off the damaged part off or just leave it alone and wait for the flesh to grow it back any good advise hanks

Hi Bro, From the pic, It seems that your wavemakers are located behind and directly aiming towards more to your liverocks. and thus on the both sides of your tank might be lacking a proper flow~~ Make sure that your livestocks is stack properly also. Anyway, Keep us posted on the progress of your tank

Dog poo? never heard of that before.. BTW Best not to rush into adding livestocks esp during that short cycling as the bacteria might not able to handle it well Patience = the ultimate key in reefing" Keep us posted

Hope to see one more bro joining the Art of Sps keeping

Anyone know whats the different between them? Heard that minerals can help to brighten Sps... anyone add minerals to ur sps tank?

any rare sps coral frag for sale?

Bro, Sharing is a part and parcel of tis reefing hobby Saw your main and frag tanks was really an eye opening for me... Thanks for those healthy and beautiful frags Just hope that more reefers will venture into SPS keeping culture so that we can share more info.

nice !!! Good Choice for Newbies to try out!!

Just to share, Althought i am only running my tank using 60W led light however most of my sps colours still holding pretty well. I believe it contribute from the random strong current and dosage of regular trace elemets, regular of water changes etc..

got from petmart pretty good price

purple montipora frag

Just for sharing: Yellows Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else. Greens Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered). Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. Youll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow). Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly. Blues and some purples This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugolâ€s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; donâ€t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer. Reds/Pinks and some Purples Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much. For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so donâ€t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps. Purples Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables. First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity. From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in anotherâ€s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip. Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K). Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.

anyone using the above? Does it help in sps growth, colour etc?

i using something like the first one for my sps tank now able to maintain it at 27 degree

i think the key to a successful nano tank is bioload~ As long as a single fishe up lorry in a nano tank(esp without notice), problems may arise in water parameter. Keeping yellow tang in a nano tank is not very advisable Lesser fishes, Lesser problems, = less worries

heard that Rowa Phos content is too strong for Sps Not Very sure on this also but like what Marcovan suggested best to use one type of PO4 remover only~~ as too much strong chemical reaction may strip off Sps tissue or affect in a way of another High Level of PO4 reading normally contributed by heavy stocking of fishes For a Full Pledge Sps tank , best is to keep fishes to minimum so as to achieve a lower nutrient System

that white patch could be stress out~~ only white tip is a sign of growing tips. Looks like your Sps polys not really extending fully. maybe can check on your flow pattern as well Bro. Advist you to check your water parameters If water parameters is gd. then could be sign of Parasites Advise to dip your sps into Coral RX if so. All the best..

New Addition: Blue tip Staghorn. Hope can keep the colour up.

trying out top shot of a small portion of tank~~

Testing camera" Latest tankshot Supplement of Grotech A,B and C one wk ago

Looking for frags for the above kindly pm me ... Thanks

Slight growth and appear to be more pinkish in this birdnest

New Addition:

vortech is much smaller in size wavebox take up too much space in the tank make the tank looks weird with its long box design

using fan instead of chiller for nano tank evaporating problem? Use distilled water for toping up, Cheap distilled water from NTUC. Lesser fishes = Lower nutrient = less equipment needed such as skimmer etc