jxlex

Interested in ur fruitloop n the other zoa, can i check when it was fragged? Stablised and happily opening already?

Camping here! Ur write up is

Upz

For a return pump a 6 - 10x tank volume is fine Something stolen off RC "For total flow, powerheads plus return, the needs vary. For a FOWLR, 10X-20X is fine. For a basic reef, mostly LPS and softies, 20X-30X is better. For an SPS dominated tank, 30X-40X or higher is best. I have an SPS dominated mixed reef, and I have a total flow of 42X. There are also other requirements and not just the actual number. Varying directions, absence of dead spots are 2 other important aspects. Personally, I think the best way to achieve these requirements is to use multiple powerheads, all crossing flows and creating turbulence and varying flow. Siimillar to crossing plasma streams in Ghost Busters .

Np bro...

Many brands of bacteria available out there, i feel its best to use multiple brands to introduce different strains into the system. <br /><br />Also the purpose of all these bacteria is to nitrify anyway

Most hardware store will have it available... Homefix etc too...<br /><br />Have fun

Salah...<br /><br />Thats gen1<br /><br />Gen2 here:<br /><br />http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/FULLMANUAL_Revision1.2.pdf

http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/MP40-Manual.pdf<br /><br />Here u go bro

Bro, the manual teaches how to do a reset... I dun think the controller should be resetting its speed everyday after night mode. I do not have this issue

Dose dose dose bacteria and water change is always a good idea

Yup.... Amoxicillin if I not wrong but need to check again, it's actually available somewhere in this forum

Nah... My 2 cents hope it helps bro

I have no concerns with water change given that 1) most nitrifying bacteria are hosting within ur sand/rocks/filter media, etc so grabbing those little bit off the water column really doesnt affect too much... 2) water changes helps remove excessive toxins, especially during the earlier stage of cycling when the bacteria colony is small and doesnt consume that much ammonia yet. Interesting but long read for you: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/226664-why-water-changes-during-cycling-are-good/

If u have liverocks, and your tank is fully cycled, its actually ok to leave it be until u are ready to stock... I do not see a problem cycling for 2 to 3 months or even longer. Bacteria has a life cycle and too will die, rot, etc... That will still provide a constant supply of 'waste' for the colony to feed on... That will keep ur colony quite safe and healthy. I find what is more important is when u start to stock, stock SLOWLY, this will allow your nitrifying bacteria colony enuf time to grow and expand to keep up with the increased bioload (waste load). A single big stock increases ammonia too rapidly and if the community of bac is not capable of converting it into no2 and subsequently no3 fast, it will still result in additional stress for ur livestocks while the colony is building up... Also, i always find using different brands of bacteria as addition to ur tank is good as you will multiple strains of bacteria and IF for whatever reason a particular strain is affected, the impact on ur tank will not be significant

Just so that u have a clear idea, the ANN cycle is smthg like this: 1)increase in Ammonia 2)decrease in Ammonia concurrently an increase in Nitrite 3)decrease in Nitrite concurrently an increase in Nitrate 4)considered complete upon testing with 0 Ammonia and 0 Nitrite and elevated Nitrate levels Dosing bacteria helps to quicken up the process but even if u do not dose, the process will still take place... Its best if u could track ANN during this period The whole process could take anywhere btw 2-8 weeks! Goodluck!

$5 bro i take all and look after for u!!

Monitor for NO2 see if it coming up... Also NO3

Is the prawn rotting away? Monitor for awhile more la... Our sand i cant trust, dunno what sort of parasites, disease, micro organism living inside.... Also, u do realise we do not have the cleanest beach around. Theres a thread smwhere in here also mentioning u can collect worm eggs from sand... I think the savings from this sand not worth the cost and efforts should problems arise in the future

Did u add anything to kick start the cycling (eg liverock, market prawn, fish food, etc) How are you cycling ur tank? Regarding sand from beach - i will say no go

Bactiv8 or smthg from Julien Sprung used it previously and liked it... UltraBio from FaunaMarin nice stuff too but not sure if they suitable without the use of zeolites FM also has a new range of bacteria, marine bakto blend, never tried but since coming from FM should be good too

Also regarding the dosing regime, less more often is often better then 1 big addition... But FM products alot of times the instructions are just guidelines and more often then not we will require less/more then the recommended dosing to achieve results. Like for the colour element based on my tank size 6-9ml is required per week but i dose closer to 12ml/week to achieve the selective colour i want On the contrary, for ultrabak, i only end up dosing 0.4ml so im having a really hard time finishing up even a small bottle... Lol

Something i got from FM previously regarding their system & colour element is that this product is meant to enhance colours that are "paled" out due to the uln environment FM ultralith system creates. Deprived nutrients in our tanks results in lesser zooxanthellae concentration within the tissue of the corals, allowing the nicer colours to show. The Colour Elements feed trace elements back into our system to allow a good supply of elements to support a good photosynthetic n metabolic process for both the zoox n coral. The whole system also includes amino acids (ultraAmin) addition to provide the building blocks that the coral may use for protein, enzyme and pigment synthesis. Also have to take into consideration lighting conditions also. So generally, i think that if ur corals havent reach the "paling" stage, i really dun think u will see significant impact from Colour elements (but thats just my layman understanding so pls correct me if im wrong) . Best to work on nutrient control first and reef vitality first followed by colour tweaking/enhancements... Just my 2 cents worth

Try White Cap Goby (Lotilia graciliosa) Nice piece

U mentioned a crash, did u check for "dead bodies"? The red algae looks like red slime u may need special medications to remove it completely... Can maybe try antibiotics too... Regarding the green hair, my take would be to remove rather then keep.. Just my 2 cents worth la