jxlex

Probably a little stressed out... I see abit of diatom on the colony... Might be good to blow at it with a wavemaker once in awhile to prevent detritus buildup between the polyps... Give it some time, will open in due course, once conditioned to ur para, it will open bigger and bigger

It's really up to you bro... I normally have my bacteria media like biohome, , live rocks in the compartment right after the mechanical filters... Is it soaked in water or just draining through? Seems like a good place for some liverocks...

Protein skimmer ain't gonna work... after awhile, u will realize they always end up at the same spot you might want to adjust your wave maker to change this "deadspot" somewhere else... Can help u asthetically but u still gotta suck it...

Dun see why not if nutrient levels are really that well controlled with the bio pellets and fr, the only thing you have to lose us your macro algae...

Not sure if this is going to help but at the outlet of ur water u could consider putting some form of filter like a filter sock, etc and see if it helps to clear up the water... A pic would probably help give a better understanding as to how "unclear" ur water is

Suck them out during water change I guess... Never ending battle

Iwarna, CF good choices

Let it finish cycling first bro, nothing for the cleanup crew to clean up... after your cycling is complete can go get some astrea snails, narcissus snail if you have sand bed, sea urchin, hermit crab and/or abalone... of course not ALL la... choose which you like for what purpose before you buy their life is important

Try to maintain ard 26-28c... Heater time!

yup just as long as you find a pump that fits into the slot, you should! Iwarna is a good source, two aquaculturist there hmm... i dun really like substrate but I'm sure there are black ones around. Other experts here can give better advice on that though

Bro, I believe it is possible and you can try with the IQ5... Few thoughts off the head, try finding locally bred clowns instead, i think they have less dependency on hosting anemones, etc. if only fish, dun have to change the stock pump. Again, Whether the iq5 or OF or similar size tanks, you will have to make efforts to keep condition as close to pristine as possible... Zoas if I'm not wrong depend primarily on light so u may have to upgrade the stock lights...

Ich... From symptoms... Btw white spots appear quite advance Liao

Have my mp10 pushed up to ~30% so far so good! enjoying the man... follow up with some pictures soon...

hmm... tough question...... i guess the answer would be yes. Mainly due to the size of the tank, you have little room for errors. however the biggest problem i have is space. Need more space to put corals! I can live with the water changes. which essentially is also once a week and of really small volume.

Dont we all have such days when hands are so itchy we need to find something to cure that itch! hahaha... i think if you are keeping fishes the Dymax IQ5 should suffice. do however note that we shouldnt stock the tank up with too much. i seen somewhere here that some one has a nice pico done in the IQ5, cant remember by whom though. I added a HOF initially to allow for more water movement as the stock pump in the IOS doesnt produce enough (also to have more space for export medias). Honestly my water level is only about 2cm off the top and so far the only splashing (minimal though) i get is when the water levels falls below the outlet of the IOS. Of course i do not let that happen nowadays. The stock pump is easy to replace and I too have since replaced it with an Eheim... unfortunately i cannot remember the model off hand but it is a good size one. Yes, you would probably need something inside to generate bottom and mid level water motions. Im not familiar with the tunze mini but i guess as long as it doesnt create a whirlpool in your tank it should be good! If only fish i believe the stock lighting is enough. But if you are intending to keep corals, you might want to upgrade your lighting. No comments about the Dymax NX5 but i guess with a little $ top up, i would go straight for the PAR38 or similar fixtures. Love the lights so far. I know too little about corals to recommend bro... paiseh I guess an extra skimmer would do more good then harm but honestly if you are using either the OF or IQ5, water change should suffice. I do about 30% every week and even in the OF, thats only about ~10liters and a 5 minute job. Every once in a while i use a small hose to suck out detritus from the bottom thats about it. Media sounds like an appropriate choice i have biohome, ultralith, phosban and activate carbon. I think you might need some bacteria dosing for the ultralith. Good luck with your cure to the itchy hands! i'm sure you will enjoy it. The community here is

You should have a look at some of those damsels in their natural environment mAn... HUGE! The other day fishing in Indonesia got one on my hook larger then my palm! -___-"'

Hope this might help (stolen off marinedepot): Thanks for the question. It’s funny that you should ask that question. Many of my friends have so much coralline, that you can’t even see the pumps! Coralline algae is surprisingly easy to grow, and if taken good care of, can grow relatively fast in FOWLR tanks (fish only with live rock). How? Well, let’s look at the things that really effect coralline algae growth. In terms of water chemistry, coralline requires only a few things different than your fish do. Like corals, they require calcium, magnesium, and some source of carbonate (alkalinity). So keep your parameters stable and in line using good calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium buffers. Keep your chemical parameters as follows: Calcium: 380-450 ppm Alkalinity: 2.8-4.3 meq/L, or 8-12 DKH pH: 8.1-8.3 Magnesium: 1200-1400 ppm. Also, keep your nutrient levels relatively low. High levels of phosphate are detrimental to coralline algae growth in two ways. First, there is anecdotal evidence that low levels of phosphate are directly inhibitory to coralline algae growth. Second, phosphate contributes to the growth of competing algae, such as hair algae. That algae competes for space, light, and nutrients with the coralline, and even grows directly on top of it. Other algae, such as diatom algae and cyanobacteria, also compete for space and light, so keep your silicates, nitrates and other problem nutrients low. Surprisingly, many species of coralline algae actually prefer low to moderate light. In many very dimly lit tanks, coralline algae completely overtakes rocks, pumps, and even the back glass. If you have moderate to low lighting, moderate to low light coralline algae species will dominate your tank. So moderate power compact lighting, or VHO lighting should work great for you in a FOWLR tank. If it’s still hard for you to grow algae, there are a couple tips and tricks that you can consider. First, try purchasing new liverock from an already established tank. Many fish stores will have older rocks that are completely covered in coralline algae, that they will not mind selling at a premium. Just buy a few pounds, since the algae will spread. Seeding your tank with a variety of coralline algae species will allow you to introduce a species of coralline to your tank that may be better suited for your lighting and water chemistry. Second, if you do have some coralline algae, try taking a new, washed, firm toothbrush, and gently scrape the algae until a light dusting of it come off. Supposedly, this encourages the spread and colonization of coralline algae spore. If your tank is currently running ozone or UV sterilization, turn it off for a while, as you may be hindering this spread and colonization of coralline algae spore. If all else fails, there is anecdotal evidence that some amino acid supplements can help to encourage coralline algae growth. The effects are purely anecdotal, but the idea is promising. Try any or all of the things above, but don’t expect to see results right away. Coralline algae grows relatively slow compared to nuisance algae. Expect to see results in 2-3 months, rather than 2-3 weeks. Have fun!

Nice

Seems like something is stressing it out...

remember to water change too

Help bro to post a pic cos he's not sure how to do it... Collection in west...

Stolen from LA: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+43+330&pcatid=330Blue Tang max size 1' - I would presume wild specimen or one with a big tank to grow in. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+27+184&pcatid=184Tomato Clown 5"

Bro can post a pic pls?

You will be on my mind bro.. Hahaha... Minimum setting I think still workable just need to tune it around abit... Stil looking for the best settings for it