pweesng

My place i submit my own reading.... so chun chun on the dot one... previously i use to let them estimate... then they estimate damn high... i pay like crazy, money put in their bank account le tthem earn interest... i rather have the money in my account and ownselve earn interest... so now i ownself submit meter reading... won't go wrong... ha ha

Hi Kenny, Any idea which of these woudl be compatible with a 6-line wrasse? Pweesng

Thanks Peter, potentially this can solve many many problems i have with regards to wavemaker... i am trying to see how this can work out for me... sigh... so many problem.. and the freaking lights is still not here! hahahah

i think a bit hard to tell one... previously i was running a FW tank with nothing but a chinese canister. There wasn't even any light in the tank. And my monthly bill was around $120. After i decom my FW tank, my bill drops to about $90! My wife was saying that stupid canister can't be using $30 a month!!! now with 3 pumps running and a chiller... i am expecting like $180.... but over the last month, the bill when back to $120! so i think it is a bit hard to judge accurately one...

1) Collection Venue 2) Any issue comming with a 6-line wrasse? TIA

IMHO, a more powerful chiller does not prevent the chiller from kicking in more or less often. Chiller kicks in when the water gets hotter. Water getting hotter is not a function of the chiller, given that at once it reaches the preset temperature, the chiller woudl have stopped working already. Water turning hot is a function of the surrounding. So i really won't be surprise if one change from a 1/4 hp to a 1 hp ans till find the chiller kicking in the same amoutn of time, if nothing else has changed inthe surrounding. However, a 1hp chiller will definitely cool the water faster than a 1/4 hp chiller. The issue that one has to grasp is whether the speed (ie the consumption) time is going to result to significant savings. In summary, what i'm trying to say is, if you find that your chiller is kicking in too often, it is not the chiller that you need to change. It is more the surrounding, ie lights, placement of the tank etc..etc.. However, if the duration of the chiller working each time when it kicks in is too long, then perhaps the chiller is underpowered.

ha ha... thanks friends! i will leave them as it is, until such time i see them going out of control. appreciate all your help!

Maybe the picture doesn't speak a thousand words... The red part, although it feels like stones, the structure looks like those SPS kind... I seriously doubt there are SPS.. can't be that lucky...

any good ones to recommend?

I suppose it is okay to leave them as it is? I don't have any light... neither have i been dosing any calcium stuff though...

Hi guys, I have notice recently, i have some red stuff growing on the live rocks in my tank... The picture as attached. I tried to feel it with my finger, it is hard and rough... can anyone advise if it is any form of parasite? and whether ic an just let it be... I do need to apologise for the quality of the picture, as it is taken by my handphone.

ha ha... Thanks for all the responses.... 1) No FTS yet, my lights are not in until first week of March unfortunately. 2) Don't have a big tank... DT is 3 feet by 1.5 feet by 2 feet... sump is dunno how big... 3) i can see the yellow water coz one end of my tank faces the window... also the colour of the water above and below the water line is different... I'll go try Chemipure and see how it works... Kum Sia!

Hi all, I used NSW to top up the water. Anyway, over the course of last month, i've added 8 common clown fishes, 4 firedart fish, 1 Yellow Tang and 1 6 line wrasse. The cleaning crew consist of one turbo snail, 1 brittle starfish, and 2 cleaner shrimps. Feeding has been rather sparing. And I use AZ NO3 periodically. When i tested my water yesterday, the NO3 is at 0. I notice this morning that the water is slightly yellow... Is there anything i can use to polish the water? don't like the yellow colour. Would chemipure works? I'm running a 75g (DT + Sump)... Thanks in advance for any advise or help.. Pweesng

ha ha.. this is funny... Now i realised i got it all wrong! I thot the whole black plastic thing is supposed to be submerged in the water! thanks for your picture! it spoke a thousand words to me!

Steady... Clementi sounds perfect... can PM me the address and contact? thanks

hi all, I am looking for a small bunch of chaetos, enough to fill up a betta box, so that i can put in nicely in the DT as a form of nitrate export. appreciate if anyone has a small bunch to let go or sell for a token sum. Thanks in advance pweesng

thanks Peter, Do you mind taking a picture for me to have a look? I will be really interested in the SCWD if i can have it fitted into my return pipe... thanks in advance

I see... ok thanks... I will just use it for the time being. spending too much money lately, CNY coming also, another big hole.... next time then bring to DE Lighting to have it changed... pay twice not as painful as paying 1 shot... plus i have been waiting for my light set since first week of december... was told the G2 110w will only come early march.

How do we get CRESS LED on the Maxspect light set? Do we order it specifically? or can we order as original and swap the LED to CREE later on? If we can swap later, anyone got any idea what is the cost for a 110w Maxspect? Sorry to hijack your thread..... back to you...

ok.. thanks to all for your advice. now i need to find 2 to 3 inch BT and YT... hopefully my lights will come soon too. Then it would be a full tank set up.... now i got 3 clowns and 4 fire dart running around, without light. They look really lost!

Steady... thanks for your advice and help... will look out for a small blue tang first... I saw some of the size about 1 to 1.5 cm blue tang at CF... how is the mortality rate for those fishes huh?

don't think you get what i am saying.. but nevermind lah.. hahhaha thanks!

Okay.. thanks guys for all comments and advice. Yep.. i am thinking of having the both of them. I will most likely have the both of time... probably try to find those really small ones... so that they will take more time to grow out of the tank. ICH is everywhere in the water... just like chicken pox germs is all over the air. The germs will penetrate the host, and manifest itself, when the animal is under stress. I have had fishes with ICH in sump without it affecting fishes in the main tank before. I mean ideally we shoudl all have sufficient facility to quanrentine fishes. But how many of us actually have that kind of space at home? i keep fishes in sump because the water that is constantly moving, it is dark, it keeps the fishes calm... Kum Sia

I see... Thanks Peter, That might be the older version though. Coz the instruction that came with me, says the set has been set to 25 degrees celcius... Thanks though...

hmmm... no quite it seems... I can calibrate the current water temperature to say... 29 degrees and set the target temperature to say 28 degrees... I notice that it will kick in when the current temperature gets to 29 degrees... and it stop when the temperature reaches 28 degrees...