MOssrope

i think he meant the live rocks all for $50 but free if u take the tankset

Mr Clean looks like a fag and never knew there were things like scratch removers lol! Any special things in the interior of the cabinet?

Hi bro, Have a tank same size as yours and pretty heavily stocked. Such small tanks have big parameter shifts when u do any water changes so do be careful, unlike bigger tanks. Changing your light to LED and adding a nano wavemaker would be ideal for your restart to control algae since u settled your leaking filter. You're very patient with this product i would say. I would throw it out of the window if it leaks on me after 2 months. What is your confidence level of keeping sps in the tank? I was thinking of adding some too, but if i do i would very strictly stick to aquacultured type.

Can i pm you if i agree with it?

As of yesterday Pacific reef - mostly smaller size fishes(damsels, royal gamma), shrimps. small cute porcupine puffers, saw some nice triggerfish too. but people were grabbing them real fast. As for corals, Iwarna and pacific Some increase in LPS no SPS shipment. Quite a number of soft corals. IF theres sps shipment do let me know. These were yesterday's info not sure if today got more

its natural hermit crabs will hit on snails. They are scavengers and will eat anything but as for snails they get both shell and meat. The shell your hermit had (which is a turbo snail shell could conclude it for u) I have turbos and hermits too. Somehow the snails stick to the walls and are pretty strong enough to make the hermit unable to flip them over. Just bringing this up cause you seem discouraged with hermit crabs. Some pointers: 1) Hermits do better in pairs ( to quarrel with each other and leave others alone) 2) leave empty shells larger than their current shells for them to swap homes 3) have enough food for the hermits. Mines doing fine together but should one day the snails go weak with lesser food they will be toys for the hermits. I would put snails in my refugium area where my light is switched on longer. They are just test driving the hermits in my main tank now.

Fish shipments for most stores/farm yesterday

this happened sometimes only after i switched to coralife. I am using seachem prime. Since it last for 2 hours only it has to be something in the WC parameter and you mentioned top up was fine. :<

Any changes in water level of sump/tank when u do this? There is a change (increase in water level) for me when excess water ends up on the skimmer cup. Any change in salt recently? I realised weaker brand salts skim lesser too. We know very well salinity affects the skimming capacity so is salinity a standard amount with every WC? Any other fellow reefers having such constant issues? Mines occasional(which i do not really care) due to increased in water level while bro dnsfpl is every WC. If you WC and top up water at the same time, could be the reason as salinity gets push further up. So things to update here are, Water level, salinity, maybe salt brand even. I believe your on a Deltec so its pretty much trusted yeah?

it happens for me when my mix have not cleared up before i use it for the WC. Is that the same scenario for you? at less the skimmed water is pretty darkish for you though i believe you expected a lot more efficiency from what you had.

Having a lot of bubbles going into the tank alters pH which is surely not ideal, apart from the other things you mentioned Yes increase the water level beyond the outlet.. but if it still does happen, maybe a picture can help us to identify the problem

Maybe they earned too much already so just let them be. Hope you get your tank going by the weekend! haha. As for algae scrubber, my smallest tank uses those hard wool fiber filter medium as the scrubber. Will have to change it often and maybe troublesome on the long run but it does works.

Collected thanks!

Letting go as topic states, Bicolor Pseudochromis(dottyback) Diet : Anything meaty and flatworms control Size : 2inch Price : $4 or exchange for anything usable. Pm me if interested thanks! Dealing Location: Preferably West

Have you tried one before? They are really beautiful! And pretty much time consuming :<

Tested tap water yesterday. It was pretty close to zero if i am not colour blind, but its supposed to vary according to different places due to pipelines, some take water from a water tank, rust and all other heavy metals can be present. Therefore i guess tap water is just about the chlorine and chloramine issue.( for me that is) Do take note how your water is drawn if you still insist on tap water. Btw do you guys make a spare tap just for the RO unit? or uses the RO unit for your every other day household usage. Was thinking the latter would greatly cause efficiency to drop.

THey opened pretty long ago.. After the 1st post i made them sleep with stinky leftover mysis shrimp for a day in a quarantine tank. The water was really all milky and crap. Now they open on a slight scent of food. Have not fully mastered their timely opening though as they still do not like too much light for now. But positioning them at the waterflow chokepoint its pretty crucial for their long term survival, as they can grab organisms that come along with the current. I feed them different things every day though.

minor light shock i guess. Which is why some people have a weaker light turned on before eventually fully turning all off. But i myself do not use those high tech lighting systems though. Bubble corals depend more on light, Mine goes to "bed" once lights are off too. Seems you were as shocked as them.

As avatar shows, This has been fixed. Thanks for the help and browsing

ooh chloramine was added quite some time back. chlorine can evaporate away but not chloramine. i read an article which said sg water will have increased levels of phosphate and stuff as it helps in plants and human digestion, and that anti chlorine solutions are not good for reef. Not sure if these info were legitimate.

hey there and thanks for the input. its quite bad when u can actually smell it... P04 reactor... hmmm.. do you have to change the media very often for this? and which part of your sump do you place it in?

Was wondering if anyone had tested the phosphate level of singapore tap water. If yes what are the levels at and how far or deep into the danger zone for reef aquariums will these levels be. Also which brand and stage of RO units gives the highest percentage of phosphate reduction? Currently on distilled water and a RO unit will surely be more beneficial and economical on the long run. Do share your experiences and preference.

market price for both products are very close too. but for me who keeps both fw and sw aquariums. i would use hydor more for freshwater and tunze seems more specialised for sw. consumers' perception towards the product i would say. though currently i am using a same hydor wavemaker for my sw and fw to see which tank goes down 1st

I have had a sun coral colony for a week now. The weird thing is half the colony opens and half of it stays close. I was able to target feed the half that is open which always waits on me the same timing i feed them each day. What i am worried here is if the other half does not open I believe if they die off the whole colony will be affected. With regards to that the flow and lighting is about the same in the area of the sun coral as they usually come in not too big sizes. Pouring of food juices do not seem to work too. Additional questions include feeding timing before/after/during lights on period to influence the opening of sun corals. Sun corals are not photosynthetic therefore was wondering if any fellow reefers have experiences with lighting intensity that can affect their behavior. Same ideas for fragging them which is not advised from what i read. Do share your experiences! Regards