slcw

Bro, for more info: Mouth open or everted -------------------------- if the anemone has been in the shipping bag for period of time, it is usual for anemones to open the mouth wide- this is a symptom of need of more oxygen. Or as a result of a water change in its body column. In any case, it has been suggested by experts under such circumstances to place the anemones under strong water motion. This aids the ventilation of the colenteron. Shirking ---------- When anemones do not receive adequate light to maintain their populations of symbiotic zooxanthellae that provide them with much their nutrition - otherwise shrink. This shrinking effect - involves consumption of tissues as a means to compensation the loss in energy from zooxanthelle. Suggest to increase lighting and feed anemone. but don't force feed. Refusal of food -------------- when anemone recieve adequate lighting, feeding need not be often (Julian Spring). Ocassionally. Just provide lighting.

MY MISTAKE! I apolgise, my further investigates lead me to the fact coco worms do not need strong lights! I have mislead u. sorry. They are however, filter feeders and that is important.

any pic? if they expose the "inside" probably due to excreting the waste or lack of oxygen. I suggest to improve circulation.

hi, i must so u have thought properly on electricial points and blend with rest of the house. i am interested in use pvc and eggcrate for aqua scape. It was much like AT. However, my tank would 5ftx2.5ft(W)x27"H) but as a divider. I understand u had diff in hiding the LR. I was thinking to tie and use epozy on the LR (do it before adding into the tank) what do u think? I plan to do a reef wall as follows (what do u think)

perhaps the coco is blocked by LR or other corals. just crashing ideas for possible cause.

bingo, i too hope to do a species tank too.

the crown will grow back, it will take some time have patience

provide good lighting. more importantly feed them - they are filter feeders - use golden pearls.

summary

a guide

http://www.myfish.info/modules.php?name=Fo...ic&t=3601#39047 try reefcentral a very good source or info. according to Dr. Ron S. he says Carpert anemones will eventually eat any fis( visit reef central - expert forum and look for my post)

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illustration of tank

i agree that chillers do not need high outflow. When to lfs, they recommended to use 1262 to chiller as they feel 1262 is too strong...the water coming back may not be fast enough. (will eexperience gashing sound) note. i already hav an eheim 1262

Hi, would appreciate if u would spare a thought the better way of position the sump taking into the following constraints: Vote 1: the pump has to travel distance to chiller before returning to aquarium. Vote 2: The positioning allows shorter distance but has 1 setback: 1) if not properly plumbed, the pipes from the overflow compartment may leak as it has a distance to travel beofre arriving at sump. but distance shorter Vote 3: Any leaks will drip directly to sump. but distance for return pump to travel not as good as Vote 2 but better Vote 1 Thanks appreciate ur feedback.

Existing but not operating, in the box.

I have an existing Denitrator....I wish to remove the bio balls and place dried rocks into to get work as a denitrator. comments pls

follow manufacturers recommendations like arcadia if have

Hi , I am planing for my 5ft aquarium. I plan to have a 60 inches (L) and 30 inches (W) aquarium but undecided for the height. Useful info 1)The cabinet will be 38 inches (tall) to cater for the skimmer. 2)My arm reach is 24inches. 3)The aquarium will have a 4inches sticker (to hide the water level at the surface to the aquarium top) 4)I plan only to have max 3 inches of sand. 5)My emphasis will be mainly LPS 6) i am 68 inches tall, eye level is 64inches 7) aquarium will be a room divider 8) Arcadia MH 2 x 150 watts I read several books and visit many sites, but wish to hear out your opinion. Q: should I go for 30 inches height, 27 or 24 inches? Concerns: a) applying info 3, if the height is 24 inches, less the top view due to sticker (4inches) less 3 inches of sand, will have 17 inches of viewing and landscaping. would the aquarium look odd given the length and width? Maintenance would be back aching if 30 inches c) dun quote like to have water level taller than me. Could u shine some light on the direction i should take? thanks a million

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Calcium when alkalinity is high, skeleton building can still occur, even when calcium is low. But when both are low, corals cannot thrive. Converserly, raising calcium above 550 mg/L will result in precipitation of calcium carbonate as chalk and a drop in alkalinity and calcification is made more difficult. according to the experts, they say allowing the pH to go higher than 8.6 will impede calcium maintenance as calcium carbonate will spontaneously precipiate as the pH rises, once again robbing the system of both Ca and carbonat ions. (I personally dun quite figure out this) Maintaining the proper balance is best accomplished thru use of automated sys for dosing lime water and electronic pH meter. manual add by hand and test kits u have to give more room for error. there are more towards calcium and other factors affecting calcium n alkalinity...I think will pen off here...anyone interest can catch anybook on this. credits goes to John Tullock for his imparted knowledge. on my side, having read, i think unless u have good calcium reactor media and proper fine tuning the co2 the investment will pay as excessive co2 will decrease pH is left unnoticed. Plus the use of pH controller is better. As for as Kalkwasser, i think we have a few brands around, which i think deep_end can access it. The reactor for kalkwasser is cheaper but, the investment can come close to Ca reactor. I think kalkwasser is time tested and excellent to supplement the water top ups. few books have articles in Ca reactor compared to vast kalkwasser. US and its authors have yet to comment in detail. in Euro Ca reactor are more widely used.

May be this note taking (article) may help u understand: As student in secondary school I always fail either my physics or chemistry. Each bears 50% of the combined subject. When I failed physics, the physics teacher reminds me I should pay more attention to the subject, and when I do, I failed my chemistry and passed my physics. There never seem to be a balance between the two. Similarly in our aquariums, there is also imbalance, when there are more acids (hydrogen ions) than hydroxyl ions, there is decline in pH. As I am puzzled about the choice of maintaining calcium levels and alkalinity, I found myself studying a failed subject of my past. As mentioned in another thread, you cannot have both high calcium levels and alkalinity. They are mutually exclusive. As I dived into the topics of pH, alkalinity and calcium to better understand how each dose I pour / add into the aquarium or my lack of regular maintenance will contribute the health and growth of my corals. This is my notes taking: pH is the degree to which a solution is acid or alkaline. Pure water has a pH of 7, which is neutral. A solution less than 7 has more hydrogen ions than pure water is said to be acidic. While a solution with fewer hydrogen ions than pure water has a pH greater than 7 and is said to be alkaline. These ions are charged molecules. Hydrogen ions carry a positive charge, as signified by the chemical shorthand for this ion, H+. In a sample of pure water, ions would exist in pairs, with each positively charged ion matched by a corresponding negatively charged ion, so the overall charged would be balanced by hydroxyl ions (OH-). Adding hydrogen ions to the water would cause the pH to decrease, add hydroxyl ions would cause the pH to increase. Several books described the natural seawater to be at the range of pH of 8.0 to 8.4. Alkalinity is the degree to which a solution maintains its pH when acid is added is the alkalinity of the solution. Carbonate hardness or KH both used interchangeability in this hobby. In reality total alkalinity in sea water is slightly higher than carbonate hardness. This is because carbonate hardness is a measure of only the contribution of carbonate (CO3-2) and bicarbonate (HCO3-) to total alkalinity. In the sea, various other negatively charged ions, such as borate (BO3-3) and hydroxides (OH-) contribute to the total. To better understand the concept of alkalinity, we discuss the neutralization reactions, The general formuale for neutralization reaction is written as follows: H+ + OH-  H20 Second, note both Hydrogen and hydroxide ions are involved. Third, consider the different chemical compounds will yield up different amounts of hydrogen or hydroxide ions when dissolved in water. An example is Nitric acid, HNO3, yields only 1 hydrogen ion per molecule while sulfuric acid, H2SO4, yields two. Similarly, calcium hydroxide, Ca(OH)2, yields 2 hydroxyl ions per molecule, and sodium hydroxide, NaOH, yields only 1. In layman terms, the more hydrogen ion you have in a solution the more likely will the pH will move towards acidic. To further add, a compound say NaCl is added to the water, it breaks up into ions (Na+ and Cl-). These broken up ions will combine with other ions in the aquarium. For every positive ion will be matched with a negative ion. In an aquarium, measuring alkalinity, we need to determine how many equivalents of acid there are in order to combine completely with bicarbonate, carbonate, borate, hydroxide and other ions without adding an excess of hydrogen ions. Chemist performs a titration test, adding acid solution drop by drop to determine the endpoint where the pH will drop drastically. The result is pH remains stable for the first few drops of acid and drops precipitously as the end point is reached. This shows the initial stability of seawater’s pH is a buffer. Buffers are solutions that resist pH changes. That is why alkalinity or KH is referred as the buffering capacity. The alkalinity of seawater is around 2.0 to 2.5 meq/L. to convert to carbonate hardness (dKH) multiply this by 2.8 to yield about 6-7 dKH. In aquarium, it is recommended to maintain higher dkH as higher alkalinity offsets the accumulation of acids of a closed system aquarium. These acids come from several sources. The primary ones are carbon dioxide from respiration, nitric acid from biological filtration and organic acids from metabolic wastes. This study made me aware the reasons why acids produced by fish and when the lights are off contribute to the decline in pH and the reasons behind why we add Kalkwasser during lights out

I am considering either Kw reactor or Ca reactor. Question 1: what are the brands offered in singapore? (i am in malaysia and only have 2 - 3 products) Question 2: which would u recommend (i welcome facts, experiences, benefits and disadvantages, etc) Question 3: if using chiller, will not the evaporation be little compared to no chiller so if using Kw will the automated top up be an adv.? thanks Some info 5x2.5x2.5 tank MH chiller.

macro skimmer...cost about RM460 in malaysia how much u bought it for.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Yeah, I kinda agree, it is what bob fenner said whatever the instructions tell u to add dose less. Then if there are no effects you can slowly increase the dosage. Thought drip would be nice, I think it requires at a bit more work in terms of setup the drips and topup. I would see if I can incorporate that in my new tank.

b4 reading i actually prefer not to add (i got the from my planted tank - did not see the benefits of add liquid fertiziliers) hence when moved into marine. I also carried that belief. Yes, I agree with u, one cannot totally replenish the lost or exhausted elements. Yes skimming also does their share. after reading the page on the book by this author, I agree one thing is unless I know and can test the elements I try to stay away from additives. however, i do have iodine, calcium additives from my previous purchase. And I do intend to use a calcium reactor. I respect n agree on what u said. I just wanted to share an article i read, that's all.