slcw

Trace element I am a believer of non additives. The use of chemical additives to replenish or supplement existing elements is considered essential by some aquarist and others waste of resources. Evidence supporting the actual usage of additives by corals is not substantiated according to Eric Borneman in his Aquarium Corals Book. He further states that corals generally only need light and food to meet their energy needs, and they require a carbon source and calcium for calcification. (Calcification is the complex process by which corals take calcium from sea water and form aragonite or calcite to be used in skeletogenesis. Skeletogenesis is the process by which the limestone {calcium carbonate} skeleton is formed.) Of the many elements available, Strontium is widely used or misused. From his book, I understand that this trace element is involved in coral skeletogenesis. Corals replace or substitute calcium ions with strontium ions in their skeleton. It sounds to me that excessive calcium ions may not be good. He adds that calcification rates increase in the presence of enhanced strontium levels. The incorporation of strontium results in reduced or slower growth and increased skeletal density. Skeletal strontium content decreases as temperature increases. But not affected by light intensity. All these sound alien to me. He concludes that the levels of strontium incorporation may depend on mineralogy and adsorption properties of the skeleton, salinity, crystal formation, species or genetic differences, water depth and unknown metabolic effects. Iodine a trace element deemed important to corals. Soft corals weere said to require it for health and growth and benefits to all corals were reported to include increased coloration and a degree of antiseptic protection against pathogens, but this is claim is not supported. The author concludes saying that every day hobbyists proclaiming that a certain element is directly responsible for some wondrous effect. However he feels that commerical salt mixes already provide most of the major and minor trace elements that far exceed the levels of natural seawater. Therefore regular, partial water changes are being performed, replenisment of trace elements with additives is probably not justified and in some cases poisonous. Overdosing can easily lead to ionic imbalances, blooms and nuisance algae or even the death of corals. The above is summary of what I read and any credits goes to the author of Aquarium Corals, Eric Borneman. The article was to share with the rest of the members here an insight of aquarist and researcher of corals. From here, members can further read other articles or his book and decide if additives are justified in adding to your aquariums.

yes complement it with blue... best is T5 if do not want MH

that is the cleanest u ever will get ...after that majority are cover with diatoms... good for u....consider changing the background to non reflective blue...it helps

I visit Reefcentral several times, I seem never to have enough. What interest me the most is the PVC stand up...by AY. I wondering for my 5ft x2.5ftx2.5ft (divider) tank how can achieve the PVC n LR arrangement yet hide the viewers (the tanks will be visible 3 sides. Being figuring........ oh...nice job

it is suggested to keep Ca levels high and add iodine.

good grief...that will make everyone envy u U should place a clause there: Research knowledge and Experienced care required with rigourous maintenance. I afraid newbies tthink it is affordable and easy to have...just cut n paste. If they do not invest like the lighting u have or the maintenance schedule u adhere how can they possible achieve that. My EDO in company is almost like that. has everything except lights (proper). How to achieve half of yours (plus the tank is 30 gallons) Hope she does not come to hear about this...oopppps

generally in the KL that's what i observe. Thanks...there was an slightly different opinion to my above post it can be found in www.myfish.info and arofanatics.com http://www.myfish.info/modules.php?name=Fo...f19237e33591a2b

The Lure and Peril of Small Marine Aquarium Since the cartoon movie "Finding Nemo", there has been pick up of marine keeping among beginners and of course there was renewed interest among existing hobbyists. Not only has this created more supplies of marine fish and corals, but also more products and LFS due to the demand. However, that's not my topic today. It is the lure and peril of small marine aquarium. The unfortunate part is when a newbie sees a small setup (5 to 20 gallons) by a LFS and finds the costs reasonably priced, most probably it is going to be a "cash and carry"case. Some probable have some experience keeping FW before (maybe when they were younger), some completely no idea and others - the minority. Every fortnightly, I hang around at LFS for about 2-4 hours per shop, and chances are 8 of 10 times, the 8 walk out of the LFS empty handed. The 2 left, 1 would end up having a FW tank because the task of changing water and maintaining so many parameters is just too daunting. The 1 probably got himself 1 SW small tank. Of course my sample size is small and restricted to mostly weekends, where activities at LFS are higher compared to weekdays. The fortunate thing here is these walk-ins are by-passers and they are usually with their girlfriends, wife or partners. Their better half (worser half) would disagree on the costs of setup and the hassle of maintaining but they all agree in the beauty. The unfortunate or fortunate guy (depends on how u look at it, welcome to the hobby of pocket emptying) would be die-hard - must get an aquarium. However, how many would actually research before emptying pockets to get their tanks. I for 1 was like the newbie only thing I already had an existing FW 20 gallon tank which I converted into SW and killed about 4 clowns and 1 anemone before calling it quits. Even then I had John Tullock's book on Clownfish and Sea Anemones Host. It was only after several months later I decided into getting back into the hobby. However, this time I had the book Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner which guided me. I must also give credits to John Tullock's book on Natural Reef Aquariums too. John said that the greatest likelihood of success with a first time marine aquarium is to be a 40 to 100 gallon. The stability of larger systems compensates the lack of experience and knowledge. That was why I failed in the 20 gallon tank. I had the following problems, I did not cycle the tank long enough. After testing for ammonia and I assume the coast was clear. I did not realise about NO2 and NO3 and each time 1 clown died I added another. How would first cycle be complete when it was not given a chance! Having realised this, my second attempt I was armed with that knowledge, books and a 75 gallon tank. I cycled until ammonia, NO2 and NO3 stablise about 4 weeks later and added slowly. Fortunate to say did not have a fish loss except for later months I lost my gobies and flame angel due to poor diets. At that time, Deep_end just carried cyclop-eeze. My flame was to depressed to eat. There is no way to stop any newbie from getting their first tank. None of us from www.myfish.info can be there to advise these newcomers everyday, and even so LFS will probably kick us out. And if u did, would they listen? Those from other sub-forums probably can consult the pool of knowledge here before diving into the sea. 1 out of 20 after or before getting their tanks would pop into 1 of the many forums that support marine hobbyist, fortunate they found us, unfortunate we could not get the rest. For the benefit of existing members and future guests in this forum, here are 4 suggestions by John Tullock on small marine setups. 1) Absolutely rigorous attention must be paid to maintenance chores, such as water change evaporation top up. 2) Choose appropriate invertebrate specimens, Such as leather corals, mushrooms that are tolerant of less pristine water quality. No newbie should start with SPS under any circumstances. Spend time developing aquarium keeping skills to avoid the needless sacrifice of demand species. (Don?t lah buy the SPS, and deter others from getting their hands on them, it will only push demand and price, next time u r ready u may have paid the price hike.) 3) For best results, do not add fish into small reef tanks, as fish places greatest demand on any aquarium system. Restrict to hardy species like shrimps, fanworms and small hermit crabs. 4) Overfeeding the fish always lead to trouble. Few experienced hobbyists, much less beginners, have the patience and restraint necessary to provide several marine fish housed in a small aquarium with an adequate diet, while at the same time avoid an accumulation of excess nutrient in the water. One of the characteristics of a seasoned talent is the ability to make an inherently difficult achievement appear simple. The author concludes with this statement: Novices would be wise to note that the most celebrated small marine reef aquariums are the creations of expert aquarists. The least this document can do is encourage the bigger the better, arm yourself with knowledge.

not that i read, I have The Natural Aquarium by John Tullock In replicating an indo patch reef, Yellow tangs are home to shallow patch reefs in the indo pacific. AT - yes there are not home to indo. this i agree, unfortunately. Anyway, thanks thanks also sotongball.

gosh, u have flame angels and achilles tang they are my wish list fish. but flame angels need live food to really flourish and achilles are difficult to maintain. wish u the best

I wish to enquire if i plan to have 5ftx2.5ftx2.5ft tank I wish to replicate a indo pacific patch reef however hosting 1) yellow tangs 2) naso 3) powder blue 4) hippo 5) convict 6) achilles Q1: understand achilles are difficult to maintain so are some of the above and apparently yellow tangs are easier as advocated by Robert fenner can mix as above Q2: how many can maintain as guide, bearing in mind i may move to full reef in future Q3: If i wish to keep a group of yellow tangs instead 5 i understand is suggested by John Tullock in 1 of his books, have any of u had seen in websites or have experience in mix? thanks

plan to create shallow indo pacific patch reef ths aquarium will serve as a divider between the rooms I recently seen AT tank at reefcentral, what is puzzling me is how to cover the pvc pipes? Plus my tank can be viewed from 3 sides. I saw AT used Pvc pipes to max space n etc. if wish to achieve the same how do i go about doing it? Pls advise thanks

I wish to enquire on 3 issues: 1) for 1 ft (10gallon) tank Currently using 1 x 36 watt PL Phillips 6500k which the casing is 2 ft in length. I wish to use 1 ft casing lighting. However the choices available are mostly PL 18 watts. I wish to have 1 tube actinic and 1 daylight with separate switches. Do not wish to DIY. The 10-gallon holds mushrooms and tubeworm only plus some fish. Please advise 2) 3 ft lighting also for office My colleagues and I will setup I FOWLR. Currently I have 2 sets of 3 ft FL casing. Question which brand of FL 30 watts would u recommend? 3) Dymax T5 NO vs FL Comparing Dymax T5 NO to say FL 2 x 15watts (good brand tube) which would be better. Generally better i mean in terms of lumens, PAR, etc. Please do not recommend T5 HO or modification to that. Thanks

I look for all in 1. 2 actinic and 2 MH in 1 casing. preferably with built in timers seperate for each lighting, movable reflectors, ability to suspend and to sit on tank, colour choice,

wow nice, show it on the tank

that bright for ur 3 ft tank. majority I have read have not combine 10k with 20k. But if u check out book on 50 successfull marine tanks by Michael P. am sure u would fine one.

so u bought ur new chiller, congrats bro. how big is ur tank, and lighting? is it warm n giving lots of heat? how many hrs is it running a day? for sparkling clean water do u have dsb?

thanks... any one? has comments?

Hi s'pore friends. am from Malaysia, Would wish to seek ur feedback on the choice of chillers. I planning a 4x2x2.5 tank. Plan to use 2 x 150watts MH to light my aquarium. I estimate the rest of equipment would generate about 200watts. my wife has decided not to go for split unit chiller (outdoors suggested by Deep_end) therefore I am left with box chillers. I have been to Teco and resun website. But cannot find JBJ Artica. I have the following options: Teco RA680 (but have no idea on th HP) Resun CL650 (understand it is not efficient, myself already using CL280) JBJ Artica 1/3HP? Please share ur experiences with justifications. Thank u. slcw

deep_end knows, but we both in M'sia There is posts on this issue in Arofanatics.

MARCO

change once a month, though 1 lfs recommends to change a bit every week to replace trace elements exhausted. another change water once a year - yet looks good

u can use all u mentioned, but if eventually u move into reef, u would find it isn't good enough. probably need to change filter equipment to sump i recommend to go as natural as possible. use LR and LS.

I am too from KL, I have seen marco skimmers from 88 marine They have display units of weipro, marco side by side. The unit with the compartments apparently is the best. I have bought 1 myself and it has serve me well. Twice i place a market prawn and skimmer started forming thick foams. in a 2ft I used to have the skimmer in a 4ft, but due to moving house i switched it to 2ft for time being

2kg co2 tank + magnetic valve + bubble counter = RM400 call if interest (neg) 016-295-0365 ask for steven