clee123

yeah bro, see for yourself...that's why I say I am very very lucky...

Bro, I had drawn a chart when I was compairing some of the reliable skimmers in the market 1 year back for my tank. Hope that will help you... my final choice was Skimz 251 based on price / performance / energy factor. I also consider the local support of the skimmer. So far so good, I never need a support anyway.. as the pumps never fail me... good luck for your search ..

hey bro, thank for your complement - I am very lucky to have brought that little backie when it was very very small like a 20 cents coin..

Hi Tropic, Yes for easy mixing of Magnesium Chloride with DI/distilled water (as well as for other items such as P+ and CA except KH), I set a basedline for easy reference and calculation.. I usually buy the Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2 x 6H2O) in pure form from Iwarna..Normally I mix 1 kg of MG with 10L of DI/distilled water and store in a 10L Jerry can contrainer (you can check out from my previous page 8 of this thread for the picture).. However all the contrainers are now moved into the bottom of the tank cabinet..

Attached is the link to a video of my tanks in youtube: good weekend and enjoy!!

If you have Monti and digitata SPS... you need to decide aiptasia or SPS.. certain types of Berghia Nudis are not reef-safe... They will finish off aiptasia and go for Monti or Digitata.. my monti caps (including Galaxy blue) and 7 different types of digitata are gone now...

Bro, if you are a disciplined person or perfectionist, 10 channel is still not enough... Think about others dosing items such as Iodide, iron, 5-in-1 coral food, etc.. the list go on and go... another way you can increase the dosing channel without buying additional dosing pumps is to use the "T" joint to connect the two(or even three)feeding tubes/pipes. Of coz, that provided that you can mix or dose the liquid together - which I think not an issue most of the time...

As you may know, I am using Zeovit method and its related products to keep my tank at accetable low nutrient level and to maintain the colour of various SPS. This method required straight disciplines and regualr dosing and checking of water parameters. It was really a challenge for me to keep up with the reefing routines with constant travelling and work commitements. As such, I initially purchsed a 3-channel dosing pumps to help me cut down some dosing routines. By now I have acquired and installed a total of 10 channels to free me from doing all the rountine dosing tasks, as such allow me to have more time to enjoy the corals and fishes as well as spend time with family. I have also cut down the testing and checking of water parameters now except when I feel something is not right. I am now checking the water parameters such as KH, CA, MG by observing the ploy extentions and colour of certain SPS and by looking at PH/ORP reading from the computer as and when as I feel like it. The only routine I still need to do is the pumping of the Zeovit reactor (hate it ), dosing of Zeobak (twice a week) and change of NSW (every two week). I hope in the near future I can cut down the routine of Zeobak dosing and pumping of Zeovit Reactor by slowly converting to Bio Pallets or Volka method (where dosing can be automated). As to changing of NSW, I hope my water parameters can be matured and constant enough that I can doing water change once a months or once a blue moon...

I had replaced my tank hood so that it can open from both ends now - this allows me to do maintenance from the front view of the tank as well as the back side of the tank.. I had also added 2 x 6 feet T5 lights on top of the hood to provide supplementary blue lights. However, since one 6 feet T5 light set is made up of 8 x 39W (with two power switches), to safe additional utility bill, I only turn on two row of lights from the two light sets. Instead, I added one more 6 feet LED light to cover the back side of the tank. This proved to be engry and $$$ saving as the 1 LED light set only required 48W as compared to the T5 of 156W (if only two rows lights are turn on). The LED light is also a testing approach to see the effects on the corals and hopefully a future replacement for the T5 and the MH lights.

Or build a real 12 footer as a partition for the fish room...

Hey..thanks bro for dropping by..

Actually I did a measurement... the 8 footer fit in just nice in the centre of the room.. just that the risk of replacing and moving the 8 footer....overcome the excitment of upgrading.. I had also considered re-arranging a "L" share with my existing 6 footer and 4 footer.. also consider a fish room behind the main tank... but then, I like the existing arrangment and the 360 degree view most... which technically spreaking a 12 footer (6 footer front and 6 footer back)...ha...ha...

So, decided to take a easier approach - enhancing the existing tank..and I could do this one step at a time.. Frist, Replacing two HM light reflectors... two only because can only find these two in Pasar Malam section here: Second, I had also replaced the moonlight with 2 x 3 feet Royal Blue LED lights (facing the front tank) and 2 x spot Blue LED lights (facing the back tank)... The moonlight will light up every night after 11:30 pm and light off 10:30 am the next morning..

Was contemplating to upgarde to a bigger tank when I saw this 8 footer laying in a warehouse few months back: It was a really good buy - $500 + moving cost (the transport fee was more than double the tank cost)... But after several considerations and in discussion with some reefing buddies... finally decided to call off the plan... It was too risky to get a second hand big tank (especailly anything above a 6 footer)...no joke!! You are talking about 2 tons of water weight plus live rocks, sand... It was also very diffcult to transfer everything from a 6 footer to a 8 footer including re-fitting the compressor chiller, lightings, and re-scaping - all to be done within a day or so...

Temperature in the range of 25-26 C is the ideal range

Thank for the complement...

Thanks bro, if I am not travelling anytime just give me a buzz or pm ....

1.025 is the common believe as the optimal sg level... however I am now maintening at 1.024 as find this level provide the best PE...

Here is the update of my FTS after minor re-scaping during the weekend... I removed some unwanted rocks and use them to create a little mountain in front to house new SPS brought during the weekend.. Spot the different?? Before: After:

ha..ha... that's one of the reasons I was disappeared for a while here.... I am a focus person...he..he.. Any idea what is the good parameters to take the full tank view? I am using F2.8 1/13 ISO-100 .. thinking of doing in Raw and tweak it in HDR with various exposures.. See your around both SRC and PPS...

Thanks bro, had PMed you my advice...

Thanks bro...

If you are referring the little fat fish beside the Yellow Tang that is a Damsels. I brought a pair from a LFS when they were very small and nice colour.. Now I bit of regretted as they attrack me every time I put my hand inside the tank or they will also attack cleaner when I cleaning the screen. so think twice before buy and put them in the tank..

ha..ha... I has automated most of the necessary dosing process (now with 11 dosing pumps)and the fact the my tank is almost full so not much need to update.. Hate the pumping on the Zeovite reactor so... might be converted to Bio Pallets or Volka soon... Anyway, nice to be see you around again....

I am doing a minor re-scaping this weekend... stay tune for a new full tank view...