teebs

There is nothing wrong or bad about buying a second hand tank but you will probably have to clean it up especially if it has been used for a couple of years. The most important factor in choosing a tank is to take note of the height of the tank. Most people would stop at a 2ft height as that is probably the max that our hands can reach. Another factor would be the volume of the tank because this would affect your water change and the amount of salt you will be using...

The initial start up cost for a tank is pretty much insignificant compared to the running costs... For most people who start up large tanks and later decom them, the primary reason is that they cannot keep up with the maintenance costs (especially electricity bills). A larger tank => larger pumps => larger chillers => more filtration media => a lot more $$$ spent each month...

Yes, I would believe so. An article on GFCI for your reading pleasure... http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/99.html

Just curious...why start a 4x2x2 aquarium when you are just starting the hobby? Start with a small tank first and as you gain your knowledge, then upgrade to a larger tank. If you start off with a large tank and you do not maintain your water parameters well, you may end up crashing your tank and in the worst case scenerio, losing all the live stock in your tank. Saw that you are looking at a 4x2x2.5 tank in the pasar malam section. Do note that with a 2.5ft height tank, you are going to find it very difficult to place your Live Rocks/Corals on the sand bed and also cleaning the tank will also be a problem.

You will need a lot of equipment for a 4ft marine tank... How much are you budgeting for your tank? Anyway, basic things you need: 1) Test Kits (Ammonia, Phosphate, Nitrate, Nitrite, Calcium, Magnesium etc) 2) Reflectometer/Hydrometer 3) PH Meter 4) DI unit for water 5) Reef Supplements 6) Live Rocks 7) Live Sand 8) Cannistor Filter/Return Pump 9) 1/4HP Chiller 10) Skimmer 11) MH and/or T5 lighting 12) Marine Salt 13) Wave Maker 14) Digital Thermometer to monitor water temp in tank 15) Filter Media 16) Sump Good to have but necessity depends on your tank set up 1) Calcium Reactor - used when marine tank requires high levels of calcium e.g. SPS tanks 2) Fluidised Reactor - used for biological/chemical filtration to reduce phosphate/nitrate levels in aquarium 3) Kalkwasser - to maintain Clacium & PH levels in marine aquarium 4) Denitrator - reduce nitrates present in the aquarium 5) Auto Top Up unit - Top up water in aquarium due to evaporation

There shouldn't be an issue with using an extension plug for the RIO pump. A GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) is just a safety device used to prevent electric shocks.

U have the specs for the ozonator?

Hi, I will get your denitrate. How to collect from you?

How big is your tank?

I'm guessing it should be Hydor Flo?

What was the size of the Denitrate you bought?

Looking for a 1/7, 1/10 or 1/20 HP chiller. Any brands acceptable. PM the brand/model/price to me if you have any for sale. Chiller must be in good working condition.

Looking for a cannistor filter. Prefer Eheim filters with flow rate of between 700L~1000/hr. Other brands that meet the flow rate specs will also be considered. Must be working and come with all accessories. Pls PM the brand/model number and price to me if you have any for sale.

The swing in pH is controlled by how much CO2 is present in the water, and as the pH is almost in constant equilibrium with the atmosphere (and buffer equilibrium is much slower), changes in water column pH are more directly a reflectiion of the pCO2 in the water (its equilibrium rate is much faster than rates of change induced by the bicarbonate/carbonate buffer system). While the lights are on, photosynthesis rates by photoautotrophs (like coralline algae or Zooanthellae are usually very rapid, and their rate of consumption of CO2 can easily exceed the rate at which CO2 can diffuse back into the tank water, so pH gradually rises up to peak pH levels of 8.3 to 8.5 by the end of the photoperiod. When the lights go out, photosynthesis stops using CO2, and even the photoautotrophs become net producers of CO2 as they turn stored CHO's into CO2 via cellular respiration for the chemical energy during the night. This causes the pH to fall during the night, usually to a nadir of 8.0 to 7.9 depending on several factors. As already pointed out, there is no issue with the system's diurnal swing in these values, and unless you're introducing a new Ca reactor and the nadirs are below 7.9 at night, then you really do not have any issues in this situation. Normal tank variation, nothing to worry about.

What fishes do you have in your aquarium? Are your fish healthy? And have you checked your water parameters?

upz...

What brand is your denitrate?

upz...

These 2 clams still available? How much for them?

Looking for a cheap Resun or Hailea chiller for my 2x1x1 nano tank. If you have any for sale, pls PM me with the brand and model number. Thanks.

I think it is better for you to check with the agent if they can repair the chiller for you before you get other people to repair it for you. The agent should be: Span Aquarium Pte Ltd 117 Tyrwhitt Road Singapore 207546 Tel: +65 6348 5930 Fax: +65 62976420 Email: support@aqua.span.com.sg

How much u selling for the clams?

You can try Qianhu fish farm. They have a wide range of actinic tubes of various sizes.

You got the peltier element from HK? I probably won't get it though. According to a US website I saw, it weighs 2 pounds which is ard 900g...

U ever thought of DIY one yourself?