teebs

upz

First and foremost, do you hear the compressor running? If you never hear the compressor running or kicking in, then most likely the compressor is defective and it's going to be very expensive to replace it.

hahahahahaha...My wife also the same...but I guess I'll still get a 3x2x2 tank in November... Since she never say cannot...I take it as ok lor...

I think the topic of cycling has been mentioned and discussed in this thread many times. It is entirely your personal choice whether to take our advice to heart or to disregard them. With respect to your small cube tank, does the hang on filter you are using have any compartments/space for you to use Pura Complete and other media? If you are only using a sponge/wool filter in your hang on filter, my suggestion is to remove the wool filter and replace it with Pura Complete, Bio Rings and maybe activated carbon. Again how much you can place in your hang on filter depends on the size of your filter. Pura complete and activated carbon should be put in filter bags before placing them in your hang on filter. Also pls buy a nitrate and phosphate test kit and test your water parameters in your cube tank before shifting your fish from your large tank to your cube tank. Pls also check the salinity and PH levels if you can. Once you have shifted your fishes to your cube tank, please start cycling your large tank.

1 swing arm hydrometer to be given with the quick start system. If you want, I also have 1 filter bag of activated carbon (used 1 week) and 1 filter bag of Pura Complete (used 2 weeks) used previously in my quick start system that I can also give you. Selling all for $100. Collection in West area. SMS me at 96837445 i you are interested.

Get a small 2x2x2 tank lor... Then u can put many corals and fishes in it...

So any intention of getting another tank???

Are you using a filter & skimmer for your cube tank? Better to test the water parameters before you shift your fish into it. At least test nitrates and phosphates.

For the Crystal Pro 3 stage, first stage is carbon followed by 2 stage DI. How it works is that in the first stage, the carbon filter will absord some of the impurities in the water before it is passed to the two DI stages. This is done so that the life span of the DI filters will be increased. In the two stage DI, what happens is that the first DI filter will be used up followed by the 2nd stage DI. When the second stage DI has been used up, then you will need to change all 3 filters. I believe the 3 stage Crystal Pro will last around 1,000L+ before you need to replace all the filters. Just take note that flow rate will be very low if you are aiming for 0 TDS reading.

upz...Collection in the west. SMS 96837445 if you are interested.

1) Deltec MCE300 or Deltec MCE600... 2) Red Sea Prizm 3) Tunze 9005 DOC skimmer 4) Reef Octopus BH200 5) AquaC Remora

Sand, test kits etc, you can buy after your tank arrive...same for live rocks...no hurry for these... Many different brands of test kits in the market. I use mainly salifert, API and tropic marine for my test kits. Price wise, I believe they are about the same in any shop. U should collect your equipment before your tank arrives... But during your cycling period, you will probably only require your chiller, return pump and skimmer. You will probably also need Reefmax Rid Phos or P04- during this period to control your phosphates...

I'm not using DI filters now. I'm using a single cannister filter with 5 micron filter, activated carbon and phosphate/silicate resin. This is rated for 3000L of water for a single cannister compared to around 600L for the Crystal Pro single cannister DI filter. The way I look at it is that fishes and corals probably do not require ultra pure water which is what you will get by using RO and DI filters. What is most important is to remove all the chlorine/phophates/silicates/heavy metals/other additives that are present in our tap water.

RO is not necessary. It actually wastes a lot of water, typically about 1.1-2L of water wasted for every 1L of RO water produced. For RO filters, you need to take note of the membrane that they use. Some of the cheap ones use only 50GPD(Gallon Per Day) or 75GPD membranes. Also most people would use a flow restrictor with their RO filters. The flow restrictor used will be the same flow rating as the membrane. DI filters will be better than RO filters because there is no water wastage. But for most DI filters, you need to use a very low flow rate through the DI resin in order to get 0 TDS. For both DI and RO filters, they are rated for only a specific volume of water after which you will need to replace the filter catridges or the DI resin. As for whether people will lend you their RO/DI filters, I doubt it very much... During cycling, you will have to add bacteria and the dosage you will need to add will be stated on the instructions on the bottle.

U have a small tank??? How long has it been running? Fully cycled??? By the way, your first priority should be to get an external filter and run it with Pura Complete or Zorb All to remove the ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and phosphates in your tank. You should also remove your bio rings and place them in the filter immediately.

upz

Interested in your TDS meter. SMS u already.

u getting desperate huh???

Well, maybe I'm lucky but the LFSs I normally go to would never tell me to do what they told Deimos. The only LFS I ever came accross which I would consider to know very little about what they are doing is the one located at B2 of an orchard road shopping centre... I ever asked one of their staff which brand of reflectometer they use to monitor the salinity of their tanks and he said he used only the floating hydrometer because it is more accurate than a reflectometer...

SMS me at 96837445 if interested.

Upz...Collection in west area.

upz

Bro, frankly speaking your tank isn't even cycled yet. To be extremely frank, you are running a very high risk of getting a huge amnonia spike soon that will kill off everything in your tank. My suggestion to you is to get the following test kits fast: 1) Ammonia Test 2) Nitrite Test 3) Nitrate Test 4) Phosphate Test Test your water parameters every alternate day for the next 2 weeks at least. In the meantime, get some super bacteria and start dosing your tank immediately. Reefmax Super Bacteria is something you should get right now. Once you detect a spike in any of the above tests, quickly do a 20% water change in order to try to stabalise your tank. As you are running a sumpless system, equipment you should get immediately if you want to save your lifestock: 1) Eheim or other brand cannister filter with a high flow rate - Remove all your bio rings from your sand bed and put them in one of your media baskets in your cannister filter. Dose with super bacteria immediately. The other media basket, put in Reefmax Zorb All or Pura Complete. Zorb All and Pura Complete will remove the amnonia and phosphates from your tank. The bio rings are to house the bacteria that will convert the ammonia to nitrites and then to nitrates. 2) A hang on back skimmer or in tank skimmer Basically what you are left to do now is just to try to save your life stock while trying to maintain your water parameters at less toxic levels. Hopefully you will also be able to complete the cycling process. By the way, which idiot LFS told you to cycle for 1 week, no need to do any water parameter tests, can put bio rings as sand bed and then can put in so many fishes at one time????

My information from a LFS that also sells the Crystal Pro is that the single stage DI unit lasts around 600L only. So the three stage which has 2 DI resins should last 1,200L. If you leave the resin without using it, then nothing will happen to it. There is a type of colour changing DI resin that is available. If you use it, then u will know it is time to change the resin when the colour changes.

where to collect if interested?