comycus

Lol no la, delightings liasing with them hope they reply soon though,Chinese manufacturers not known for their promptness

awaiting manufacturer reply... I guess such a new product needs more info before customers can commit.

Just to make a point bro... Just exaggerating

nice rhizo don't think Jacky got time to feed nps corals? Otherwise it's a really great beauty to keep!

Think we went off topic for awhile.. heh Anyway back to the original question. How does this lighting system hold up? Considering nobody has a unit yet (Jacky you getting?), welcome comments for 'at first glance'.

will be visible if they are not happy with the flow. They will recede and you see only skeleton even when lights are on. I agree with Sherman. As long as flow is deflected off glass, should be fine. They can handle quite high flow.

hehe graphically always works better We are talking 2 different issues here. Normally, you take a brand new (or almost brand new) mh, hook it up and measure PAR. then take a brand new led, and do the same thing. Based on this one time only reading, tests I have found online say that LED is comparable, if not better than MH. Your point is another advantage LEDs hold over MH. That is the rate of change in performance of bulb. This is where LEDs beat MH flat with their rated life of 20,000hrs-50,000hrs w/o significant loss in performance. Hope tt clears up my confusion!

Check out bro binosage's tank to see insane fluorescence with only his royal blue lights turned on. Definitely not enhanced, prob not as outstanding as if you were to see with your own eyes. Think Sherman posted some shots of normal blue led in his thread before too for comparison. Depends on what you define by natural coloration. They are all there, just can't see under normal sunlight/t5/mh.

I thought you meant comparing both of them over time? I meant the tests were taken at specific points in time, not averaged out over a period of time? nvm... but I do agree with bro jc85. If they are not using royal blue and normal blue, there will be a marked difference. I love how royal blue brings out my coral's fluorescence

Comparison is done time specific, not over a period. To clarify further, an array of 3W LEDs with the proper optics can match/better PAR output values of MH.

Another chinese website on comparison of the lights with t5s and mh. http://www.cmfish.com/bbs/viewthread.php?t...;extra=page%3D1 too lazy to translate, can use babelfish

Thx for clarifying. That's why I'm concerned with their use of optics. Coz based on some of the experts over at nano-reefs, barring other factors, a 3W LED running at 60 degree optics produce comparable PAR readings to 150W mh, and 45 degree optics for 250W mh. Where are our local LED gurus? hope 1 by 1 all come in

This is what can be found from the company website: http://www.semileds.com/LED_Chips_SemiLEDs.htm

The concern is on diminishing PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) values that is needed for corals growth. Can clarify this diminishing transmission thingy that your bf is explaining? I dunno how to explain, need one of the experts here to explain properly actually.

wow ok so translating to this set, it translate to 20-33% performance efficiency compared to a quality hi-led that is properly cooled? Maybe tt's why they recommended changing bulbs every 2 years compared to the normal 5 years? If tt's the explanation, then it's quite reasonable, and in line with the more affordable pricing.

Some interesting information combing through Chinese forums (http://www.cmfish.com/BBS/viewthread.php?tid=62069): Proposed LED replacement period: 30w white LEDs - every 18 months (Available in their 160W & 180W models) 3w white LEDs - every 24 months 3w blue LEDs - every 30 months LED Life: When running white leds under conditions of 50 degrees in the aluminum heat sink, every thousandth hours result in a drop in performance of ~3%. Following a 10 hour daily lighting regime, annual performance (3650 hours) decline is estimated ay ~11%, and within three years, 33 %. Manufacturer later claimed that this was the worst case scenario, given their current testing over a 5 month period did not result in any drop in efficiency levels. Manufacturer also claims that they will not commit to the norm of LEDs running for 5 years without loss in efficiency unless the aluminium heat sinks are run at 20 degrees, which is impossible. more food for thought... Somebody please enlighten me! btw my chinese translation is not tt fantastic, maybe I misinterpreted some stuff along the way...

Yes, would like to invite the LED gurus to discuss more about this new product. Looks exciting, and I'm sure everyone would like to know if this is a feasible product I'm very impressed by the design, cost of this product and their 18 month warranty. My concern is their optics (apparantly they use 120 degree optics). My rudimentary knowledge is that it is sufficient for nano tanks (up to 12") but without at least 60 degree optics, I'm wondering if the light penetration is enough for my 24" tank? My tank is LPS/Softies coral. And for bros keeping SPS, what's the feasibility? A quick search at nano-reefs for maxspect also shows what the LED folks over the other side think.

Pics found online:

Check out this new set available at DELightings: http://delightings.com/index.cfm?GPID=30 (Jacky hope you don't mind a repeat post here, easier to view) Hope it sets the bar for more affordable LEDs in future! But first, would like to invite the LED gurus to give us their opinions. The 110W unit has the following specs: LED Source : 18PCS x 3W White LED, 18PCS x 3W Blue LED(SemiLED Chips) Brightness : 3W White LED - 160LM/PC, 3W Blue LED - 40LM/PC Color Temperture & Wavelength : 3W White LED (10000K), 3W Blue LED(450nm) Input Voltage : 220V Power Consumption : 110W Diamension : 400*180*45mm Additional details: - Does not contain any UV light on biological absolute security - Specific 450nm wavelength blue light, the light needed to simulate the coral growth and promote coral growth. - All-in-time switch setting, white & blue lamp can be separately controlled - Temperature real-time detection showed, high temperature alarm, high temperature automatically turn off the lights (60-degree alarm, auto of above 70-degrees) - All external power supply, lamp only through low-voltage DC, for aquarium biological and human security - Fashion, simple, compact Design. To subvert the traditional lamp awkward appearance, large volume. - Integrated aluminum radiator light body, with the dual-ball bearing fans, provide adequate cooling for LED.

What was the condition of your silicone? If it was peeling off, in bad condition, prob due to old age and lousy silicone used. If it still looked new, maybe when cleaning your tank with razor blade or something sharp, accidentally cut into it?

be careful, doesnt mean you just need to keep adding biohome so you can add more fishes. otherwise I can add 100kg biohome and add 1000 fishes

regardless of whether you are reformatting, it is always good to backup. I've lost so many files due to hdd crashing and lazy to backup. btw when you are running anti virus software, avg is notorious for taking up loads of ram, might want to consider others.

I won't suggest hydor flo, it is good, but apparantly will reduce your flow by up to 50% or more! Not a good idea considering your return is already quite weak. Same issue like me, so i can't install the deflector, otherwise I agree it is a good way to create random waves.

fowlr or reef tank? what kind of fishes you keeping? diff fishes have diff bioload, but i would say you are prob at your max/over capacity. Your water parameters are the best indication of whether your system can support your current fishes.

this kinda thing shouldn't get pirated version la... I maybe cheapskate but I won't sacrifice my thousand dollar dslr just because i don't want to pay a red notes more... yupz gorillapod is quite versatile if you don't like carrying tripod ard and not into like serious photography.