comycus

What is Aperture? Put most simply – Aperture is ‘the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is taken.’ When you hit the shutter release button of your camera a hole opens up that allows your cameras image sensor to catch a glimpse of the scene you’re wanting to capture. The aperture that you set impacts the size of that hole. The larger the hole the more light that gets in – the smaller the hole the less light. Aperture is measured in ‘f-stops’. You’ll often see them referred to as f/number – for example f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6,f/8,f/22 etc. Moving from one f-stop to the next doubles or halves the size of the amount of opening in your lens (and the amount of light getting through). One thing that causes a lot of new photographers confusion is that large apertures (where lots of light gets through) are given f/stop smaller numbers and smaller apertures (where less light gets through) have larger f-stop numbers. So f/2.8 is in fact a much larger aperture than f/22. It seems the wrong way around when you first hear it but you’ll get the hang of it. A better illustration of how aperture works:

Since there is a forum dedicated to photography, going to start afresh by sharing some of the basic photography tips and tutorials from one of my fav website: DPS. The three basic elements of photography when we start venturing from “auto” mode to “manual” mode are: 1. Aperture – the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is taken 2. ISO – the measure of a digital camera sensor’s sensitivity to light 3. Shutter Speed – the amount of time that the shutter is open It is at the intersection of these three elements that an image’s exposure is worked out. Most importantly – a change in one of the elements will impact the others. This means that you can never really isolate just one of the elements alone but always need to have the others in the back of your mind. I found it tough in the beginning to differentiate between the 3. The window metaphor helps me remember better. The Window Imagine your camera is like a window with shutters that open and close. 1. Aperture is the size of the window. If it’s bigger more light gets through and the room is brighter. 2. Shutter Speed is the amount of time that the shutters of the window are open. The longer you leave them open the more that comes in. 3. Now imagine that you’re inside the room and are wearing sunglasses (hopefully this isn’t too much of a stretch). Your eyes become desensitized to the light that comes in (it’s like a low ISO). There are a number of ways of increasing the amount of light in the room (or at least how much it seems that there is. You could increase the time that the shutters are open (decrease shutter speed), you could increase the size of the window (increase aperture) or you could take off your sunglasses (make the ISO larger). For those interested in more in depth discussions, I will expand on these in the next few threads. http://digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography

Ferrari red tank!

And if all turns out well, one will morph into a male! I love my splendid, only thing is tt bugger sleeps so early, hardly see her anymore.

Sounds good! Hopefully the stupid-er one will learn from the one tt's already feeding that mysis is food They sound quite stable already.

I think your fish load is ok lei... do more % water changes to reduce it? If I were you and I were kiasu, I would: 1) Add 1-2kg of biohome in sump 2) Dose 2 bottles worth of AZ NO3 according to instructions (prob worth 2 months for your tank) 3) Dose prodibio regularly for the next 6 months Based on my experience, never had any problems with nitrates even with insane amount of feedings

I have checked around and it seems only I-aquatics custom makes these overflow boxes. Ready made ones can be found off the shelf by them and at AM. For tanks with euro bracing like mine, the additional length does reduce flow rate. So have to factor this in when considering your return pump. Will post updates on my overflow box when I get it next week.

My personal opinion is good to have. It is not needed for a reef tank to function normally.

Depends on how you patient you are. Can drip acclimatize it for 2-3 hours for fishes that require more delicate care. Can also just add tank water to bag every 15min. When bag is full, throw away 50% of water and restart the above 2 methods, until you are satisfied. I know some may just throw the fish straightaway into the tank.

Add biohome in sump ba, maybe it would help.

is zouk a new shopping mall? *innocent eyes*

lol wait someone come with PG13 we know who has the thickest skin

lol don't poison me! yeah I think Iwarna will miss him too! so fast, May is just around the corner... Oh yes, I will be late tmr, will give you guys a buzz when I'm reaching.

yeah, also need to ask permission from my mother also...

Thanks bro, just what I need! Care to share where you got it built?

bro how much live rock do you have in your tank? Maybe add more?

If you allow teenagers to join count me in!

might be doing an upgrade of my tank instead of getting new one... Just got some quotations, 3 sided low iron glass is no joke!!! $$$

Touch coral = torch coral or what? Pls clarify, haven't heard of touch coral before...

Depending from tank to tank, sometimes it may take up to 1 week for the zoas to open up. But yours sound abit different coz it's not opening at all. Can give us what your tank parameters are exactly?

using fan now... switched off my wavebox also to reduce heat. Luckily my MCE600 is hob, just changed the lights to LED (less heat) and I'm almost running a fowlr tank.

Thx bro! Has been a real hectic day for me. Actually browsed through the site but missed the 4/12 inch euro bracing overflow box! I'm waiting for Ian to come back, he's not in town atm.

Yup I know, but looking at the feasibility of having the extra length in an overflow box first. Will it affect performance? No point building something that doesn't work.

Upz any diy gurus out there?

Need some help with building a custom overflow box for my tank... Attached the following pic from melevsreef' website. I think majority of overflow boxes are designed in this way. The problem is that my tank has bracing all round, which means that the area where the box 'sits' on my tank, which is marked in the picture with a length of 1", needs to be extended to approximately 4". I'm no physics student, would anyone care to venture if extending this portion would affect the operation of the overflow? Some question marks would be how it performs after a siphon break, and whether it would affect the flowrate? Thanks!