comycus

Kepping true percs will be making a similar mistake as the damsels. They will end up dominating the entire tank too. Most gobies can be consideed if you are looking for appropriate tank inhabitants.

Glad it held it's grounds. Im sure many will disagree with your thinking, but since u already want to go ahead, better choose the best and fittest queen angel so tt it will have the best chance of survival right? All I can say is this bugger's colours are really awesome! Hope it starts feeding soon! As for curbing aggression, I think the frequency at which u rescape your tank... Hahahaaaa errm let's just say your fishes move house v often N yes, not to mention your "secret plan" wooohoo!

bro if you can't find any help here can call up reef depot to see if they can help? They are afterall Deltec's authorised distributors in singapore.

Your hydrometer only measures specific gravity. Temperature has no effect on SG. It only affects salinity. Edit: It is only callibrated to read salinity @ 24degrees. If you don't want to read up on the difference btw salinity and SG, just follow Jacky's advice, won't go wrong.

1. Won't have space for an additional pump in your tank if you ever want to upgrade. You won't be able to maintain a low enough stable temperature for your corals to survive in the long run. If chiller is not in the works, you will need to run a fan to cool your tank. Evaporation will be a headache, and you will find that your return compartment might run dry, especially on humid days. The key in tank setup is to plan buffers so that you don't suffer any major damage/losses when murphy strikes, and trust me, murphy confirm will strike one day in this hobby. So take that into consideration when you are planning your return section. 2. If you are confident of the 12", then ok, it's up to u You wanna chisel your live rocks into shape!!?? wow okie, tt's a first I'm hearing actually. Be careful, coz some of these rocks are almost unbreakable, and others are extremely brittle. So yeah, keep us updated on your scaping in future! 4. Just need to run activated carbon, phos remove and bihome. More than sufficient. KISS theory. So whois your tankmaker?

Can see lots of thought process into this project. Good work bro! My 2 cents worth. 1. How are you going to cool your tank? If using a chiller, will prob need a stronger pump. Aquabee 2000/i would be better. 2. 12" width is definitely too narrow for any scape. You should really consider a wider tank. 3. How's the water flow like behind your tank? From your drawing, main tank >> filter >> underflow into refugium >> pump >> tank. 4. I would go with Biohome rather than eheim substrate pro or bio rings. Much better bio filter. 5. Your pump compartment of 5"x5" is too small to even fit the pump in! Problem would be solved if you had a wider tank. Your return compartment needs to be alot bigger as it will prob be the first compartment to run dry in any murphy. 6. I'm rather skeptical of using just cheato as the main source of nutrient export. I still recommend hanging a hob skimmer in your refugium compartment and having cheato to complement the skimmer. Otherwise the other school of thought if you don't want to use a skimmer is to install an algae scrubber in this compartment. Can research more about this, there are pros and cons, and many differing views on whether a algae scrubber only tank works. 7. I don't think sticking oyama or any other form of background to the back of your tank is feasible. After all, sticky material and water don't mix v. well. You will probably have it peeling in no time. Might want to consider painting the back of the glass with some reef safe, waterproof paint. 8. IMO, skip running the carbon until your tank is fully cycled. Run the cheato right from the beginning. 9. Tapwater is technically fine. RO/DI water is the best of course, but the reason we leave tapwater to stand at least 24-48hrs is to get rid of the chlorine. Best is to add a water conditioner like Seachem's Prime to treat tapwater. There is still the possibility of adding silicates into your tank, and promoting algae growth. That's the reason why some of us don't use tapwater at all. No point leaving cheato in it. 10. Yes stock up slowly on corals. More for your learning curve as you are starting out on the hobby than anything else.

thx for sharing bro! ure too humble!

These companies don't normally do consumer sales for individuals. Makes more biz sense to find a distributor to distribute their products.

Hanna President Martino Nardo has confirmed–Hanna Instruments is working on Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium Checker colorimeter models. His comments on RC below: We have received questions and helpful feedback on some additional parameters for aquarium testing. I thought this would be a great opportunity to update you on our future developments. We are currently in the final stages of completing an expansion of the Hanna Checker family of products that will measure: Alkalinity Calcium Nitrate The goal is to have these solutions available by July. We are also looking at a secondary phase after the completion of these three parameters. …. [in response to questions on future models] Ammonia: we may have a unit available to you by June/July. Magnesium and Salinity are more of a challenge, but we are working on them. At this stage, I cannot promise a date. :groupwavereversed:

I'm anticipating this product eagerly. Hope our LFS brings this in when it becomes available! This is the ultra low edition that reads parts per billion! Works great and hopefully is more accurate than trying to read off colour charts with our current test kits with a range of 0.00-0.20ppm. It is priced at USD 49.99, and should remain relatively affordable after conversion and shipping. *cross fingers* More info can be found in this pdf: http://hannachecker.com/manuals/Phosphorus.pdf

It just means that you have set the temperature for the chiller to bring down to at 28 degrees, and it will start kicking in at 1.5 degrees above the set temperature. This gives u a temperature variation of btw 28-29.5. The chiller will not kick in at 28.5 or 29.5. a 1.5 degree temperature range is normal. Edit: the temp range could be 1degree as mentioned by bino. I'm not sure if you can change this setting for hailea chillers.

I think the few of us deltec fanatics have already established that u won't go wrong with the MCE600. You can also look at AquaC Remora.

Actually for SPS keepers, I don't think it's advisable to use NSW at all because SPS require v. stringent water parameters. Salt mix would be better.

WB bro Can check out DeLighting's 1.5ft tank setup. In my opinion, his package offers a balance btw $$ and quality. Or can check out Jacky's current sumpless set-up, quite compact and should give you ample options.

Clementi Florist & Aquarium I think C stands for Clementi and its at blk 328

Just wondering, does your cabinet have any ventilation holes for the fan to blow the heat away? Best is to cut a hole at the back of the cabinet to direct the heat away. Otherwise fan or no fan, the heat still cannot escape away from the cabinet and will spoil your chiller v. quickly. I don't think Hailea chillers come with warranty, at most 7 or 14 days if I remember correctly. You might want to consider putting the chiller outside the cabinet to ensure it's longetivity. Can check with Jacky. He is one of a few reefers who house his chiller in the cabinet.

That's v. fast stocking for such a new tank. How are your tank parameters holding up? I think you will suffer casualties for being so impatient. NSW can be used, but you will prob want to test and correct the parameters of nsw to ensure it is as close as your tank water. Might also have to add additives to increase your ca, kh, maybe even mg levels as I believe they are normally quite low to sustain our corals.

Good enough for picos la, as long as there's sufficient water circulation.

The artificial LR sold by GO always claim to have the same function as LR, including bacteria colonisation. Not too sure about it, but I believe having biohome as a buffer would be a safe bet.

Silly me, I meant the eheim liberty. That's still too big for u?

What about the Eheim ones?

no need.

This sounds like the problem to me. Can you explain what you mean by cycling your tank? Did you add any fishes when you were cycling? If you completed the proper cycling, ammonia and nitrite should have been zero at the end. If there is ammonia and nitrite present, a lot of fishes will not only fall sick but also die. Doesn't matter what freshwater dip or miracle medicine you feed them. You should do something about your sump. It looks to me like the water level in your sump does not cover your live rock completely. That can result in that part of the LR rotting, and contributing to your ammonia and nitrite levels. With all the clutter, I wouldn't be surprised if something is rottin inside your sump and you won't know a thing coz you can hardly see in it. In short, there's prob nothing wrong with your sump design. Rather, you need to manage your sump better and do some emergency action to bring down your tank's ammonia and nitrites. Can start off by clearing your LR in the sump. Is that biohome I see in your other compartment? If it is, you can take out your LR in the sump and do away with them. If you don't have biohome, buy it as it is more space saving than using those bulky LR. Dose 2x-3x of normal dosage of bacteria to help kickstart your bacteria colonies. Adding Chemipure or some other good activated carbon where there is good water flow in your sump so it can absorb your ammonia. And stop adding any fishes into your tank until everything settles down. Best is you can transfer your current fishes to a better environment or risk losing them.

lol lemme catch up on all the episodes before I can discuss their nerd jokes *reaming of a Special agent Walker to protect me*

Awesome show to watch especially on lazy weekends Love the whole buy moria + spy concept