comycus

I don't think zeozym is the same as vodka dosing. Haven't tried it long term to see the effects. I stopped dosing after my red slime problem was solved. Even if it worked like vodka dosing, don't you think it's abit too expensive to dose like vodka?

nothing much other than hope and pray. Like what Law has mentioned, it would be better if you gave us more information. if it's an aggression problem, you should check fish compatibility in future before adding new fishes.

Let us know the results? if the long nose doesn't get it, coral banded will prob finish the rest. Perppermint shrimps are also known for hit and miss in terms of aiptasia control. Some do great, others don't do much.

lol bro, reddevilz replied you in post #7 on what to expect when you visit some of the LFS. I did a thread previously on google maps street view on some of the available frontal/side shots of some of our LFS. Can check it out here: http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=84090 For your custom tank, are you looking to build only the tank or with cabinet? What kind of lights are you thinking of using? Hood normally comes standard with the cabinet if you order. Quite a few LFS do tank setup, you can always approach them if you want, either for an entire package deal, or just the tank itself. Maybe it would be good to share with us what build you are trying to get, quality and price range, so can advice better?

Just offering my 2 cents bro, of course there will be evidence for opposing school of thought. No need to be sarcastic about it. If you need examples, my old 3ft broke due to thinness of tank. Need more examples to counter that? I read of someone here with a 4ft tank who had against the norm glass thinness who also managed to keep a great looking tank. As stated, it's not just the glass thickness that makes the Juwel unsuitable for Marine. If TS wants to go ahead with it, can also follow in the footsteps of the successful reefer in the link you provided. Add lights, add sump, add skimmer, add chiller etc. His choice. We just try to provide as accurate as possible a scenario so he can get a clearer picture. If we miss out something, somebody else can contribute too. Tt's the beauty of this forum. Let's not ruin it with unnecessary comments.

Thank you for clarifying. Jacky, there is no such thing as a straight answer. Now, let me organise my 'defence'. In pure mathematical terms, a pure inverse relationship is when X goes up, Y goes down. If I wanted to be picky with my english, then yes, I am wrong to say that Calcium and Alkalinity share an inverse relationship. However this was not my intention. I said 'somewhat inverse'. Now what does 'somewhat' mean here? It's a highly debatable term. I could mean that it was a partial inverse relationship, whereby most of the time, when X goes up, Y goes down, depending on the strength of the correlation. I could also be trying to borrow the term as a sort of imagery to draw some similarity of the relationship to an inverse relationship. Or I could just be trying to pull of a hoax here. The reason that calcium carbonate solubility changes with alkalinity is the same as in the other analyses in this article: "on" and "off" rates of calcium and carbonate ions. In this case, the alkalinity effect is driven by changes in the solution's carbonate concentration. Lower calcium carbonate solubility at higher alkalinity implies that precipitation of calcium carbonate can be more extensive. In other words, as the alkalinity rises, the amount of calcium that can be kept in solution without precipitation decreases. This effect is why, for example, maintaining a very high alkalinity can lead to excessive precipitation of calcium carbonate onto objects such as heaters and pumps. Likewise, as the alkalinity is reduced, the amount of calcium that can be kept in solution without precipitation is increased. Should we continue to banter with definitions and words or settle with my layman interpretation that " Generally you will have either high alkalinity and lower Ca, or vice versa. Of course you can keep dosing until you have high levels for both parameters, but the big question is, is this dosing regime feasible?" Edit: If you wanna continue this, we should start a new thread elsewhere. Not nice to impose on Jacky too Promise I will keep it strictly professional, no low balling remarks and the like.

Before I make a fool out of myself... bro marcovan care to explain what you think the quote you gave means? "If, for example, you add too much of a calcium supplement, you will drive down alkalinity as you get precipitation of calcium carbonate in the tank. Likewise, adding too much of an alkalinity supplement can result in reduction of calcium. Consequently, trying to correct one problem can cause another. Moreover, if you try to correct a calcium or alkalinity problem with the wrong type of additive, you might accomplish nothing more than creating limestone in your tank" In v. v. layman terms... my mind cannot process cheem chemistry terms

Haha just let it rot then

Can add la... My rudimentary understanding is don't add, bacteria will grow eventually. Add, bacteria will also grow. All also bac, add sooner or later will still be bac

i thought dosing bac during cycling helps build the bio system?

how big a prawn did you put in?

If the flow out of the pump is more powerful than flow into the tank, your sump water level will drop continuously until it empties. I doubt tt's the case here right? 1200L/hr sounds ok for the chiller. After head loss and depending on length and height of pipings, might even be a little on the low sidel Check the chiller manual to see how to set temperature range. A 4 degree celcius temperature difference sounds like your corals are not in v. good shape and will deteriorate even further.

Think you're trying to fight nature here... I'm no chemist, but I think alkalinity and calcium share a somewhat inverse r/s. Generally you will have either high alkalinity and lower Ca, or vice versa. Of course you can keep dosing until you have high levels for both parameters, but the big question is, is this dosing regime feasible? I think this question is impt in your case because you have a nano sps tank. I think the key is more of maintaining stable parameters than getting high levels for both. Good to have high alkalinity and CA, but if you have to dose everyday, what happens if you stop dosing for 1 day? or if you stop dosing for 3 days due to emergency? Will tank parameters get wild fluctuations and will SPS be affected? Just some thoughts to ponder on

Can check out Tansk's tank. Don't know if his is sold, but it's a beautiful tank. I've seen it in person, and it's less than a year old if I'm not wrong.

Think in terms of orange notes. Looking at something like more than the number of fingers you can count on 1 hand kinda number.

wah why do you need CA levels to be so high?

You can camp ard pasar malam section. Good deals do come and go when owners decide to decom or upgrade. Can take the time to research more too. What's the biggest tank you can afford?

Hope issue is solved. Be patient in your cycling!

I think dosing is a v. delicate procedure. While we can follow recommended dosage, the best is really to find out over time how much Ca/Mg etc. our tank consumes and dose accordingly. For example, a fully stocked tank might consume more than the recommended dosage and have to adjust based on individual tanks. Tt's why I say cannot do it... have to test, then dose, then retest and redose... waah like tt 2am also not enough le

Your water level's prob too low.

bro, simply

Good choice on Zeozym. My red slime was gone within 2 dosages. (Should be 2 weeks) Remember to check your skimmer more regularly as it tends to improve the efficiency of your skimmer. Do remember to follow the instructions and mix the solution 6-8hrs in advanced.

lol if you never pointed it out I wouldn't have noticed. But if we ever have a Live Chat, wouldn't it be like MIRC? like it will be super confusing. Can imagine 60 members talking at the same time? Of course can then move on to private chatboxes aka MSN. My view is that it's prob too hardcore to have a irc concept on the forum la...

Before jumping the gun, just wanna check. Have you researched enough on marine fish systems to bite the bullet? I apologize if I'm jumping to conclusion, but you sound like you have almost zero knowledge and want to keep a FOWLR coz a friend is letting go of his Juwel system at rock bottom price. Keeping FOWLR only is not as easy as putting in seawater, live rock and fish. Pls research and read up more if you have not done so. Next, I checked the Juwel rekford 70 and like what Jacky has mentioned, it is not suitable for marine tanks. One, glass too thin to support additional weight of live rocks and saltwater. Two, it doesn't have a skimmer. Three, it has whimsical lights that will not support most soft corals, which btw normally require moderate to strong lighting. If you do get the tank, you will be taking a huge risk of coming home to a cracked tank and flooded living room. If that doesn't happen, you will want to install a hang on back skimmer, diy a stronger lighting hood, get a return pump to hook up to chiller. (Yes you need to keep a chiller if you want to keep corals, including soft corals. Heat builds up, especially more in your closed hood system.) Your alternative can be to install fans to cool down the tank. OR you can self customize. If you ask me, I think you save more $ and effort with this option. Lastly, if you don't know what you are getting yourself into, you will waste more $ with lifestock, and end up killing fishes. my gloomy 2 cents...

be more imaginative la haha who knows, maybe next time we will be able to support 3d photos. Can rotate the photos to see whatever view we like btw bro whiteice, tt's Jacky's not too subtle hint tt he wants 3 FTS photos from you...