comycus

Pics of the sump. Notice the display section is actually quite small. Gonna leave everything empty for the time being. Still don't know what to do with it. FSS!

Finally free to snap more pics of the new sump and overflow. First up, photos of how the overflow looks when hanged onto the back of my tank. The shots are all crooked coz I can't really see what I'm taking. There's absolutely no noise at all coming from the dursos! Amazing

Thanks bro! Yeah I think so too Can't wait for the tank to settle down and start adding stuff Thx guys. kudos to Vincent on the sump design. Gives me what I want. Clean and simple

New new your nano tank's looking really nice!

You will need to factor in some loss in flow after the split. Can always get a higher rated pump and install valves to control the flow.

hehe will be there around 12.45-1 if nothing crops up at work. Will Leslie and you be going down?

Date: Friday, 14 May Venue: City Hall (Meet at Starbucks entrance)lunch will be at Sushi Tei. Time : 12:15pm 1) Jacky 2) Comy 3) Siang 4) Digi 5) Ketchup 6) Peter (tentative) 7) Gouldian 8) Desi 9) eChan Last slot for anyone interested.

Same thoughts. Kinda defeats the purpose of running a FR as the carbon is in the bag and water is not 'forced' through the media. Might as well put it in the sump directly.

lol I think that's subjective. Your favourite LFS will prob be able to give you a good discount off their listed price. If you dno't mind second hand, pasar malam always have sellers. I am currently using both the AB2000 and 2000/I. I can tell you that the head loss from 2000 is alot greater than the 2000/I. Guesstimation is I'm prob getting ~1500L/hr out from my 2000.

V. nice and simple DIY I knew you were up to something when u were asking to buy the magnet

To make photographing corals easier, you can also switch off all pumps and wavemakers so the corals don't sway too much. With sufficient lightings though, this shouldn't be a constraint.

White Balance: Accurately reproducing colors with a photograph can be a challenge, especially when the aquarium is equipped with 20K Kelvin bulbs. As camera technology improves, color accuracy from automatic white balance settings are improving, but it may still be necessary to set the white balance manually. Consult the camera's manual on this process if your camera has this option. Manual white balance adjustment involves placing something white under the aquarium lighting and pointing the camera at the white area while pressing a button or sequence of buttons on the camera. Once the camera sees what the tank lighting looks like on the white surface, it can adjust itself so that all colors are reproduced accurately. Even with a manually set white balance, however, it may still be necessary to adjust some settings in an image editing program to achieve adequate accuracy. When using a flash, auto white balance is usually very accurate. White balancing is another area where experimenting with different settings may be required to achieve the best results.

Close-ups: Close-up shots are usually the ultimate goal of the aquarium photographer. When shooting close-ups, keep in mind that as the camera is moved closer to the subject, the depth of field decreases. Depth of field can be described as the area of the image that appears in focus. To achieve good depth of field on close-ups, use a small aperture, but remember to double the shutter speed each time the aperture is cut in half. For example, if an accurate exposure is f4 at 1/60, to get more depth of field would require f5.6 (one stop difference) and a shutter speed of 1/30. This keeps a consistent amount of light hitting the sensor/film. To add even more depth of field a setting of f8 could be used, but the shutter speed will then be reduced to 1/15. It's easy to see the compromise here - if anything is moving (polyps swaying in the current, for instance), it will be blurry at slower shutter speeds because any moving object will change position while the shutter is open. A tripod is extremely helpful for this kind of photography because of the slow shutter speeds involved and the likelihood that the camera may move, causing a reduction in image sharpness. Flash can also be effectively used for close-ups. The added light will help to achieve greater depth of field and to freeze any movement. The same techniques applied to fish photography (with a flash) also apply to close-ups, except the emphasis for close-up shots is on depth of field as opposed to fast shutter speeds. Technique is everything when it comes to macrophotography. Small apertures are ideal for close-ups, but finding the best compromise in terms of depth of field and shutter speed is a matter of judgment borne of experience.

Fish Photography: Fish photos require a different technique. Since the subjects are moving, a reasonably fast shutter speed should be used. A shutter speed of 1/90 may work, but even faster is better. I typically use aperture priority for any photography that does not use a flash. As a starting point, use the biggest aperture (usually around f2.8) that the camera allows to ensure the fastest possible shutter speed. I like to use a flash for photographing fishes. When using a flash, be sure to keep the camera aimed slightly downward to keep the flash from bouncing off the front of the aquarium and sending it back into the lens. For flash photography I recommend using a manual exposure mode. Try experimenting with different settings, but a good starting point is f4 and 1/60. Flash exposure compensation may sometimes be necessary. Take a test picture and determine if it's too bright or too dark. If it's too bright, then set negative flash exposure compensation (reduce the flash output); if it's too dark, positive compensation may need to be applied. Again, start with the minimum increment and go from there. Adjusting the ISO may help, but remember that the higher the ISO, the grainier the picture will be. I generally do not recommend flash photography for fishes. Maybe my flash level not there yet. Anyone have taken fish photography using flash care to share their photos and technique?

Full Tank Photos: Full tank shots are best done from a tripod. Not only will the images be sharper, but it will also be much easier to frame a shot that is straight and level. Aperture priority is good for this type of shot, and an aperture of f4-f5.6 is a good starting point. Keep an eye on the camera's shutter speed - if it goes below 1/30 or so, a bigger aperture (smaller f-stop number) may be necessary, or the ISO may need to be raised. Ideally, the shutter speed will be 1/60 or higher in order to keep moving fish or swaying corals in sharp focus. Aquarium lighting is rarely soft and even. It can be very difficult to achieve an even exposure throughout the tank, so exposure compensation is often necessary to prevent overexposure at the top of the tank where the lighting is brightest. If the images are too bright, then set negative exposure compensation - start with the smallest increment (usually 1/3 stop) and keep experimenting until the exposure is right. Try different apertures as well as compensation.

It would be better to have different pumps for skimmer and FR as they may require different flow rates. The preferred brand of course is Eheim. For me I really can't find any fault with Aquabee as well. Tt's why I chose it over Eheim. Noise should not be an issue if you are considering these 2 brands.

Zeozym bro! Works wonders to red algae.

The theory is that with lower flowrate, less water is passed through and chilled within the same amount of time.

Since it's new, should still be under warranty. Can call them and try to fix the problem. Will let other bros advice you on where to get the external thermostat, not sure myself although I recall someone was selling off his in pasar malam section. Can check it out.

Try to aim your wavemaker at the glass to soften and spread out the flow. It's actually better to have 2 pumps of a lower rating. LPS flesh moving a little bit is ok, if they start moving really vigourously will respond poorly and might shrink back into their skeleton. Monitor and adjust their position or the wavemaker's position accordingly.

I just got my sump! Lots of space to put jewels

Well, all my fault. now the powder blue might not be in the healthiest of conditions... Hoping that the damage is minimal and I can nurture him back to the blue of health! Thx for the stars

I dunno about you guys but I never seem to see any hot babes around when I'm out alone or with my friends. But when I go out with my gf, it's super babes galore. Think I will try bino's method. hahaa wear a scowl on my face whenever I'm looking at babes. But then again they won't smile back at you! Lose the fun... haha

Is your Hailea brand new? The thermostat could be faulty, that's why the temperature keeps jumping. Nevertheless I would suggest using a stronger pump. Depending on your pipings, our pump will encounter head loss before entering the chiller.

It's the same concept as this Dazs fan I posted. The fan is located at the side of the tank but is drawn to the surface through the vent that is located at the water surface. Good to know we can find such equipment locally