comycus

I did some research online and read that once the fish displays signs of internal parasites, it will always have it if within if not cured. If it does not display the symptoms, it just means that the fish is strong enough presently to combat the parasites. However if it is weakened in future (by stress or other diseases), might eventually succumb to it. Call me kiasu, but I still prefer to treat my healthy and greedy cheap chromis and sleep better at night

Can read the links Gouldian provided for Haxamita. Getting metronidazole however is a pain as LFS here don't carry them. Can get from ebay or vets(v. ex!) I can prob spare you a few to tide through a few days. Or you can buy from me if you need more my bottle of 100 tablets can definitely last me way past the expiry date anyway.

if its 6 tangs or 6 lionfish in your tank, its definitely overstocked Maybe you can get a good cleanup crew to cleanup any detritus or dying stuff in hard to reach areas. Nassarius snails are prob your best bet. Maybe get 20-30 of them as these snails are really small. I have seen feedback in forums of ppl reporting success in bringing down their nitrate levels from 100 to zero using AZ-NO3 within 4 weeks. I think doing that and weekly changes of 25% over the next 4 weeks should be able to bring your nitrates under control. Me still learning, maybe other bros have other tried and tested methods also can share

Forgot to add that I did the 50% after my cycling period when there were no LS. What are your nitrate levels? Also would be good to get to the root of your nitrate problem. Overfeeding? Overstocking? something dying somewhere? high nitrates in your tap water? No use performing WC if you don't nip the problem at the bud bro. cheers!

I think something like tt, but not bacteria... for AZ NO3, it provides 'food' for the enzyme maltese to oxidize NO3 so that it can be exported out via the skimmer. At least tt's my understanding.

bro why not consider dosing bacteria? between them and the liverock, I'm sure will be fine.

Is your tigertail still available? I'm interested.

heard about dosing vodka/sugar I guess that's another alternative... try to get my fish n corals drunk!

more food for thought... nikon has a macro-nikkor range for scientific purposes which magnifies larger than life size magnification. (from 1:1 to 40:1). the Micro-Nikkor range are more suited for the consumer who requires 1:1 magnification or less.

Effects AZ-NO3 provides many other benefits besides nitrate reduction. Upon addition of the product to the aquarium, you will notice that the Protein Skimmer becomes more efficient and remains that way for approximately 30 days after the final use of the AZ-NO3. In addition, as the enzymes become active, all sediments and pre-filters in the aquarium remove larger amounts of undesirable organics, thus requiring more frequent filter changing. It does not interfere with any nitrate test kits to give you illusionQ and fake denitrating effects like the other product (See below "Latest Update"). It brings down & maintains your nitrate from as high as 100ppm or more to an Absolute-Zero level. Hence the name. Safe for reef and fish-mainly marine systems (saltwater use only). Will not harm your delicate corals. Works with an efficient protein skimmer to export the bonded nitrate compounds. An alternative way is to employ Polyfilter Pads to adsorb the bonded nitrate compounds. Also dramatically enhance the efficiency of your protein skimmer in the removal of other detrimental dissolved organics. Contains absolutely no yeast nor complex sugar which will cause adverse effects & other unpredictable complications upon long term usage. Since that it is not bacterial-based. Its potency will not be affected by any other additives, medications and supplements. It is fully-compatible with any other chemical engineered for aquatic use. Fully-tested by actual hobbyists with all kinds of marine systems and different starting levels of nitrate concentration. Newly copyrighted formula developed by a group of Biochemists / Hydroculturists. Product will last for 1 year at 70 degrees. Latest Update The AZ-NO3 may not work to its full effectiveness under the following conditions: UV Sterilizer running near or above 50,000 microwatts - sec/cm2. Ozone saturation above 40% in the protein skimmer. Customer not changing pre-filter pads and/or filter sponges in mechanical filters before natural nitrification breaks the maltase molecule back down into it`s original nitrates. So, clean your pre-filters and all pads frequently please. Under rare situations that should your fish show stress, an Iodine supplement is recommended. Please bare in mind that the AZ-NO3 enhances the efficiency of your skimmer and Iodine may have been exported. Watch your ORP while using this product and increase aeration if there is a need. Its reef safe, and please note the final caution on increased aeration.

I think your carbon was the reason for NH4 to drop to 0, which means most prob, your tank not really fully cycled, coz bacteria not allowed to grow fully without NH4 to breakdown after the carbon absorb it. might wanna restart your cycling process... can consider dosing bacteria, not sure if tt will quicken the cycling process for you. i heard true percs v aggressive, might wanna consider adding them later rather than as first fish. Unless you are planning on setting up an aggressive tank

If it's ok to you, then its ok to me! haha care to show a fts under your new lights?

up for you. photos of your corals don't do justice to the colours. see to believe!

got a bottle of metronidazole from dachkie. hope the medication works! btw your zoas v. poisonous... the fluorescence is simply amazing! Thanks everyone for your advice n to dachkie personally!

Beautiful! extremely neat and clean look just wondering if the exposed wires should be a cause for concern?

Was just looking at this article when I saw your post. No experience in changing tanks, but I think it's a start! http://www.aquaristsonline.com/blog/genera...orals-and-fish/

1 of my chromis displaying the same signs... long string-like white poop. Still eating and swimming healthily. Will I need to transfer it to QT for medication or should I treat him in my display tank? thinking of using only the feeding method for the time being as long as it still eats. Anyone knows if adding metronidazole to fish food will cause any harmful side effects to healthy fishes or corals?

bro how big are your clowns?

How much water change did you do? a 10% change won't reduce your nitrate tt much. My 50% WC reduced my nitrates by 50%. In any case, you should have been tracking your ANN cycle, so should have seen the peaks in ammonia and nitrite before they started dropping. I'm using AZ NO3 with v. good results. My nitrates went down from 25 to 5ppm within 1 week. Just follow the instructions on the bottle and slowly wean it off your system when nitrates are brought under control.

btw why 12" width? is it space constraint? Only asking coz it is probably too narrow to put live rocks, corals and leave space for fish to swim in. To put things into perspective, a small-medium live rock can typically range from 6-12 inches. I find 15" to be the bare minimum for reef tanks.

1) Some say protein skimmer is like the heart of the tank. I would get it if I'm setting up a tank. w/o confusing you, there is another option: employing an algae scrubber. If interested, you can find out more about it here: http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=73162 Surface skimmer skims water away from the surface, getting rid of stuff floating in the tank like oil. If your tank has an overflow, usually will have teeth at the top of the overflow tt creates the same effect. 2) Powerhead takes in water from 1 side n pumps it back out the other side. Wavemakers 'blows' water like fan. Not necessary to get wavemaker as powerhead can act as one, but wavemakers have lot of gadgets nowadays to create tidal waves, random flow etc. that's good for the tank, recommended to get 1 or 2 to create the random water movements in your tank. 3) Read http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html I think for smaller tank size, the sump is prob more important to increase water volume. 4) Other than a protein skimmer, you need to know the 3 types of filtration: Biological, Mechanical and Chemical. Can read up more online. You can choose to do filtration either as a HOB filter, External canister or sump. 5) read http://www.melevsreef.com/why_rodi.html 6) To me protein skimmer is impt. You will definitely need some sort of filtration. RO/DI unit is not a must, but helps improve your water quality. 7) This snr reefer told me before DSB needs minimally 4-6 inches. With your height of 15", don't recommend going DSB unless its in sump (Refugium). choose either BB or SSB. Like I said, I'm still learning, so if I made any mistakes, hope someone will correct me too.

Atlantic blue tang different from normal bt aka regal/hippo tang. Anyway, should start a new week le!

Thanks bro! Anyway other than the diatoms problem, hopefully I have everything in check for the time being. *cross fingers* 1 of my pair of turbo snails feeding on LR to clear algae off my rocks. Seems like I do need more of them, they are not called snails for nothing! Some growth in coralline algae... And lastly, my toadstool's finally opening up!

Meanwhile, some new additions to the tank from GO this evening. Zoas still not fully opened, hope to have a zoas garden when tank is more settled.

I know bro, tt's why using AZ NO3 now to quickly cut down my nitrates, and slowly wean off my system in future. Phosphate and NO3 levels have gone down tremendously over the past week. Other than this, will Cerith snails help me get rid of these ugly looking stuff on my sandbed? Or will they just die off naturally as my nutrients taper off?