straydum

close to palmer's blue?

selling off a few items, 1. mp10 wet side: $50 magnet needs replacement, good for those who needs any of the spare parts other than the magnet 2. maxspect g2 160w: $250 no longer under warranty. comes with the original stand, hanging kit, and complete lens kit. 3. aquabee 2000: $70 4. resun chiller cl 280: $50 internal controller is faulty thus requires an external controller to work all items are being sold on a FCFS basis collection would be at tampines do pm me if interested thanks!

closed

you can. sure, active cooling and open end caps with better ballasts on ati would increase light output over the standard de lighting set however the difference is not very significant imo when you take into account the price difference

woah uncle mike is that the same monti i eyed the last time i was there? crazy growth! proof of tender loving care

sure you can. imo nsw as compared to salt mixes aids in the initial bacteria cycle. however the perimeters for nsw fluctuates with the environment so it may be necessary for you to boost or adjust certain perimeters a larger sump would give you a greater luxuary of space to work with your equipment, not to mention increasing your total volume making your setup less sensitive to minute changes. there shouldn't be a problem using 2ft sump as long as your plan out carefully the space left for your various equipments after incoporating your refuge. having a qt is only to your benefit. it saves your tank inhibitants the risk of pests and diseases that can be avoided by qt. your qt need to run 24/7 and be placed near your tank. you can always have a spare tank or container somewhere that can be setup when you need to qt new purchases. leaking, overflowing, microbubbles in the return comparment, stuff from your refuge clogging up your return pump etc. these are just some that hit me first, there are plenty more that other reefers here can point out

i always thought it should be contrary to this. wouldn't letting the more aggressive fish establish its territory first be harder for the newer, less aggressive one to fight back on top of adjusting to the new environment?

thanks cool guy uncle mike, priceless advise as always however this piece has already been passed on to the greater hands of someone more experienced to give it a happier home. thanks for all who expressed interest and for viewing!

~ 4" x 5" light / sky blue base with brown polyps, i believe there is potential for this piece though not under my inexperienced care. base stalks exhibit a green tinge which i couldn't capture in picture but obvious to the naked eye. letting go at only $35 on a fcfs basis collection and viewing is at tampines do pm me if interested

someone correct me if i'm wrong here, but the end of the cycle can be indicated by 0 values of ammonia and nitrite. nitrate on the other hand should not be 0 unless you have done something to get rid of them. the first two (ammonia and nitrite) would be broken down eventually giving nitrate which is not that easily removed by bacteria (unless you're talking carbon dosing and all) and thus stays in the water and requires active removal by the reefer himself through water changes, or other methods which includes the use of macro algae, bacteria (as above), chemical means etc. ammonia and nitrite should not go up again (though in a sense it does but is quickly broken down by your established bacteria colony) but nitrates would continually rise depending on your feeding and maintenance routine. water changes would be the easily solution to combat nitrates especially for such a small set up.

as much as i agree with eniram's point of potential clogging, i think it could work. a few bros have successfully incorporated scrubbers into their overflows. light would be an issue, as said direct lighting in required. if the back face of the overflow box wasn't black (or that dark, i can't really tell if its black due to the scrubber sheet) and perhaps was the clear back tank glass instead, you could have had lamps shining in making it like a 3 sided scrubber rather than now a 4 sided which brings in the lighting issue. sticking rocks on overflow is not really a new concept. there are plenty of examples on RC. most reefers there prefer a full rock wall with foam, rocks and sand, rather than just rocks on the box, which makes it look more natural. it also saves one the wait of algae slowly covering the unnatural plastic/glass. other's just stick their corals straight on it with the eventual results being the same - a covered overflow

ah beng has a few in the usual frogfish/sharks/rays/mantis shrimp tank

oh my! the tail.. look at that tail.. !!

just sharing my exp, i tried the inverting and wait for it to drop method, it took so long that i was more worried of die off from my LR so i gave up, like what peacemaker said "it took like forever" one method that succeeded, but only on 1 piece was the foot irritation method. fingernail proding (not peeling), or ice cube seemed to work though it takes considerable time and effort, and this is also seeing that a good part of the nem's foot is exposed. if possible, inverting their location in the tank is helpful in coaxing them to climb up towards the light which at the same time hopefully gets the foot out of the gap and onto flatter rock. for those wedged deep in a crevice, i found the only way to get them out without harming the nems was to break the rock itself. small pieces of rock are still okay but large valuable ones would be a waste to break. these minis are ridiculously stubborn when it comes to removal. for me it wasn't easy even to remove one on the glass.

i'm wondering the same thing.. may i know which lfs you got the seawater from? recent batches of nsw that i tested were greatly lacking in certain perimeters

photos don't do justice, got to see them in person. ups for you bro

woah, i should have opened the sump too ken those pictures don't do justice to this wonderful setup!

closed, thank you for viewing

hey bro, its been awhile gotta visit you soon to catch up! and also to see your new setup wahaha

hello all, looking for an aquabee 2000. not fussy about aesthetics, as long as its working and in okay condition its fine. do pm me if you have one for sale, or to trade for a good condition aquabee 3000 (with top up on your side of course) thanks!

sold thanks for all interest

selling away my most prized lps, at least 15 heads, but if i'm not wrong should be 20. very lime green stem (those who have seen it before in person can testify ) sale price at only $100 sales on a fcfc basis, collection would be at tampines. do pm me if interested

Terelabrus sp. pair

yeap both pictures are of the same fish, probably taken by john hoover? the other pictures in the album are just as amazing. just curious is the double-emarginate the only obvious tell tale for hybrids? based on the tail and what i've seen in shipments, hybrids don't seem rare, just uncommon. but people don't really take notice to them though.

wooo! ups for you bro! a must for zoa lovers