straydum

thanks bro

pardon the dirty glass frags going from $10 - $20 depending on size and branches with frag plugs (limited) collection and viewing at tampines do pm me if interested

sorry! edit wrong post title! please close this thread thanks!

sorry to hear about your female flame slowly through my reefing journey i learnt (mostly through the hard way) on the dangers of aggressive fishes especially when you have really treasured fishes in the same tank. are you intending to replace the female? on a lighter note i love how you're making use of the crystal 3 sided! people often neglect the view from two sides and don't really keep them as clean as the front view (i personally am guilty of this sometimes ). and you did a great job on the cover it spoils the rimless open top effect but thats the price to pay for keeping fish staying in the tank

unique foxface spotted at rb and irene. not sure whether it's classed as aberrant but it looks like the tang recently brought in by henry. 2 Belonepterygion fasciolatum left at irene as of 1pm today

i remembered once randomly browsing and i came into a list of new members for the day and all the usernames are an obvious jumble of letters and numbers. spam imo

here it seems like only .jpeg shows. previously the file was in .bmp

it died at their shop? i remember reading at reefbuilders that it was sold really quickly.

i'm currently boosting my mg from 1300 to 1600. pe has remained constant so far

nice zoas and acans! i hope all ends good for both the bellus and your corals

keeping a white sandbed is very possible but tedious 1. your nuisance algae growth must be minimal which points to your water perimeters 2. weekly/fortnightly vacuuming of the sand bed is key to a pristine white bottom. most reefers (if i'm not wrong chingchai included) vacuum up the top layer which is covered with unsightly algae and replace it with a new layer of sand in order to maintain the whiteness 3. you can seek help from sand dwellers like sand gobys, sand dollars, snails etc but each comes with its pros and cons hope this helps you a bit

ups for you bro!

if they are true bristleworms its fine to leave them in your tank they will do more good than any harm

so far when i still had fishes they don't pose a threat althought the nems are quite sticky. fishes won't swim into them nor will they reach out to catch fish. my snails seem to be able to climb across the carpets on bottom in search for food so i would render the nems quite safe. given any chance the nems i have will move up the rockwork for more light. if you place them at the bottom of a large rock that reaches to the top chances are they will be one day that they will be at the top. these guys are really hard to dettach manually once they're settled. so if you have a nem on a large rock and you wish to remove them its a large pita. in terms of on the sand i do have 1 on my sand bed but its foot goes all the way into the sand and sticks on the glass bottom. leaving them on a sand bed by themselves with nothing solid to attach do doesn't seem to work

didn't someone say there was coral and fish shipment at pinnacle tomorrow afternooon?

the kerb seems to help for sump flooding but i don't think it will do much if the tank overflows from the top. that being said will the sump sit over the whole totally?

wow great planning! you really thought this one out and now there're awesome results to back it the large cabinet gives you so much space to put so many things! envyy

here's my humble list Anthias: Sunset Anthias Butterflyfish: Bluecheek Butterflyfish Clownfish: - Dwarf Angels: Colin's Angelfish Gobies: Cook Islands's Helfrich’s Firefish Large Angels: Bandit Angelfish Predator Fish: - Tangs: Achilles Tang Wrasse: Rose-band Fairy Wrasse Others: Bodianus Sanguineus

just my experience on the ikea lamp holders the holder (black part) seems to hold pretty well from rusting even though it gets salt creep really easily on the insdie. however the silver extension which holds the head does rust quite easily when not taken care off and even though being further away it is more unlike to get salt creep. the bulbs will get salt on them most quickly so you may want to clean them on a weekly basis to maximize your light outputs having said that, the florescent bulbs you're using now aren't at their best as you can see from the light holder (the insides aren't reflective). thus on your next bulb change or something you might want to give these bulbs a try bulbs which comes with their own reflectors!

i'm not very sure bro. i may be wrong too

reserved

yeap if you're cycling i think the prawn can stay. but just for this one time you need to let the prawn decompose into ammonia and feed whatever bacteria is present in your tank from your rocks. the cycling period will take anywhere from around 2 weeks to a month. if you change your prawn every now and then or do partial water changes during the the process, as doing so will stall the cycle from completing

is that the 'monti' it is perching on? from the picture doesn't really seem like a monti to me. more of something like a Leptoseris

thats correct once you get the reading you can compare it to the chart to find your mg levels

interesting scape its great that you use minimal rock so that there won't be the cluttered look