Fuzzy

maybe a picture would help for a positive ID and better food suggestions.

I've got 2 rhodactis also experiencing this same issue. The other 20 or some odd ones of different colours and some yumas are doing great. Its just these two green with dark green stripe ones exhibiting this behavior, they refuse to attach to anything, but are not melting or showing otherwise worrying behavior aside from bleaching. They are bleaching under a 150w 20K BLV MH in a JBJ 28G, so I don't think its a lack of light. And were doing fine prior to introduction, and also after 3 weeks in the tank. Unless its due to too high light intensity... I'll be doing a 35% water change this week and see if that helps them any. Just really puzzling as the other rhodactis in the tank (of different colours/subspecies) are doing great, and propagating at a fairly rapid rate.

Hey bro, good to see your chaeto farming is working out

I've been running chaeto in an FR for a couple of months now. No other media in the FR of course. the FR is lighted by a small PL light, its working reasonably well, but I think I need to get a stronger light source for the FR. No other media in the FR of course, and its one of the bigger RM ones, you might want to ensure that the diameter of your FR is big enough that you can at least put your hand all the way into it, if you need to clean it out.

what is the size?

I'm happy with the Dymax Digital thermometers that run around $10.00

Thats why you have to buy Kordon Breather bags http://www.novalek.com/kordon/breathing_bags/index.htm You can pack the fish without air because the bags allow CO2 and Oxygen in through a semi permeable membrane type bag. This way your poor fish won't get sloshed around in the bag, and the bag won't burst as easily because there won't be a big air pocket in it. (Can also pack more fish into a smaller box) These bags are not some gimmick, they are proven and most of the American LFS and frag swappers use these to ship livestock around.

Because of the new Airline LAG policy (Liquids, Aerosols, Gels) you cannot hand carry fish aboard. Kinda stupid, as I've yet to hear of any fish that can survive for even one minute in a volatile liquid. But airlines and policy makers aren't the brightest bunch, best you can do is pick up a couple of Kordon Breather Bags (someone at AQ is bringing in and selling these) and carefully pack them into styrofoam or sturdy cardboard boxes in your check in luggage. Be sure you do not exceed AVA limits on ornamental fish for personal use and don't try to bring in any CITES / endangered /prohibited species of fauna. "A traveller may import up to 30 fish in not more than 3 litres of water or a mixture of the different varieties of ornamental aquatic organisms provided it does not exceed 5kg in total weight and must be within a traveller's limit for the various items. For details, please refer to AVA website at www.ava.gov.sg" http://www.cites.org/ http://www.ava.gov.sg/AnimalsPetSector/Imp...OrnamentalFish/

If you are going FOWLR, you do not need any supplements. Just be consistent with your water changes, at least 15 - 25% per month is the absolute minimum, and you should not need to add any supplements. Nitrate levels at 100ppm are not healthy for any livestock at all. Try to keep your nitrate level below 20 - 30ppm with frequent water changes. You do not need metal halide or high intensity lighting for a FOWLR tank. T5 fluorescent / actinic tubes will be sufficient. I strongly recommend a chiller and not to let the temperature go above 28C at ANY time if you intend to keep angels, high temperatures will stress them out, they will break out in ich and in turn stress you out. Chilling with fans works, but its a false savings, and you cannot maintain as stable temperatures. The evaporation rate is not to be underestimated, and you will be topping up fairly large quantities of water daily or every few days. Getting a chiller now will save yourself a huge headache and potentially more cost and problems in the future. Treated tap water is not ideal (it contains phosphates / nitrates etc which can build up very quickly if you need to do daily topups of evaporated water. You should be using only Distilled or Deionized water for your topups, and these costs will add up very quickly. I was running a fan cooled 3ft tank, barely keeping it at 29C, and I was topping up 30 - 50 litres of water a week for example. A chiller will do a better job with a lot less of a hassle and cost less in the long run. How big is your tank, and what salt mix are you using for your water? Removing phosphates will prevent nuisance algae growth, otherwise water changes should keep the levels low enough that it shouldn't be a big problem.

Whoah ok you need to slow down, this hobby requires great patience, or you will end up spending even more money. Stop buying and adding anything to the tank straight away. You need to devote a few days to doing some serious reading before you do any more buying or adding to your tank.

Are your fish being stressed out by high temperatures? its been really hot the last few weeks.

Most reefers recommend not to skim while your tank is cycling. Also you shouldn't be running Pur-II (Activated carbon) in your filter yet, this might be the reason you are not reading any ammonia..it is being absorbed by the activated carbon and your cycle cannot be completed. The BB require some Ammonia to start multiplying. Have you measured your Nitrites and Nitrates? If both are also undetectable, you should probably remove the Pur-II and maybe introduce a piece of market prawn to restart the cycle. The residual sand from your LR shouldn't cause any problems, aside from being unsightly, maybe just siphon it up with any detritus there once in awhile? If your liverock is already cured there shouldn't be much if any skimmate at all produced in your tank, as there would be nothing releasing significant amounts of dissolved organic compounds in your system yet, so your skimmer should not be working hard if at all. pH varies with termperature and when the lights are on etc, you should not be overly concerned about it when cycling. If it continues to fluctuate wildly, you will probably have to buffer your water more. Have you measured your GH and KH? Also what brand of Salt Mix are you using and what is your Salinity at?

bro what is the pickup location?

nice brain!

Bro, looks like an overflow box?

Should be DI resin as per the thread title?

I change 40% monthly in my JBJ 28G nano

according to the site equipment can be placed up to 15 feet away from the tank, higher, lower or same level also can. The 5ft version is 14" wide, USD$4500...and thats before shipping and installation...yikes. I think can just knock out a wall and replace the entire wall with a fish tank, cheaper.

Not true that live sand is only used for biofiltration. Many if not most of us started our tanks with packaged live sand. Quite a few bros using Natures Ocean, I am using Caribsea, no complaints, but I did mix sand from an established tank into my new live sand also though. For a 2.5x2x2, you should be looking at about 3 - 4 bags of live sand (approximately 30 - 40kg) to get a depth of 3 - 4cm in the bed. Half the amount if you only want a shallow sandbed. As for live rock, you want approximately 30 - 40kg for your tank size, but it is largely personal preference, the more the better. Less if you are planning to stock LPS or other coral because they often come attached to a piece of rock. If you can get your rocks scaped nicely, giving your fish lots of space to swim and many hiding places, put in as much LR in as you can! The cheapest way is to camp the Pasar Malam here, frequently you will see bros selling LR, second hand LR is the best! hehehe. Otherwise you can expect to pay around $5 - $10 a kg for LR at LFS, depending on quality and if its pre cured. I've had good luck with AM Jln Kayu they are priced somewhere in the middle.

Very cute, I can definitely see why you bought them. but wah, your link recommends at least 100Gal tank for a school.

If you must really use a canister (not recommended for marine) be sure not to use those bio-rings, and to clean the canister filters out at least twice a month. A skimmer is more important than a canister filter and it would be preferable to run a skimmer with more live rocks than to use a canister for your nano. In the long run, constantly topping up DI water is a false savings. You should really consider installing a chiller. For a Nano tank, a Hailea HC-100A or HC-150A is enough, and not too expensive ($100 - $200 second hand, and about $6 - $10 per month in electricity) You won't have to do daily topups and your water parameters and temperature will be more stable. AM Jalan Kayu has lots of live rock can go try there(many small pieces good for nano also) and for nano tanks, the most you will need is 3 or 4kg (less than 2 red notes)

most likely the pump you are using is too low flow rate. how many L/hr is the pump driving the chiller? Unless your thermostat is faulty, might want to consider getting an external thermostat for your chiller, and/or upgrade the pump. Putting the chiller on a timer is a bad idea, its there to maintain constant temperatures. If you want to save electricity leave the chiller set at 27C, or at most 28C (not so good for coral) Since you already have a chiller why not maintain constant temperatures to keep your fauna happy? Assuming your chiller is the right size for your tank (what is your tank size in Litres and your chiller model?) and your chiller pump is of sufficient flow, you should not be paying more than $6 - $10 a month to run the chiller, really peanuts compared to stocking and feeding/maintaining a marine tank. Have you tried with another thermometer to confirm the readings? 30C is way too high for a tank with a chiller running.

what are they exactly? I have some of these rather cute fellas in my tank also, hitch hiked from bro Yongshun's LR

wow thats a cool looking shrimp riding it.

I only see the JBJ Viper HQI Clip on 70w and 150w, but those require you to remove the hood to mount, was that what you were referring to?