Fuzzy

Hi bro I'll take them, you got PM.

If you intend to keep coral, you want to get Aragonite sand, instead of normal lapis sand. It will be a little easier to maintain pH and Calcium levels later on. But yeah as some bros have pointed out you can just use "dead" sand and let the live rock seed it with beneficial bacteria.

My advice is to let the waste water go, I use waste water from my Freshwater tanks to water plants, but have not figured out any use for my marine water changes aside from washing filtration or bio media, can't even use to wash floor, heh. You probably want equal or better water quality to your main tank in your quarantine tank. Reason being, any fish or livestock being held in quarantine will probably already be stressed from sickness, or stressed from the store, they will do better with water closer to ideal parameters.

And while you're exploring getting a new cabinet, it would make it a lot less painful in the long run to purchase a sump tank to go with the cabinet. A sump tank about 60% to 80% of your main tank length would be great!

No LFS that I am aware of had stock as of 2 - 3 weeks ago, and none was expecting stock until earliest middle of this month.

You're right, I was thinking of another thread. 1/15 should be enough for a 2ft. I am running a 1/10 on my 2ft CRS tank and another 1/10 on my 28G nano. Both Hailea HC-150A, but I reckon the HC-100A should be enough for a 2ft if you're not running MH lighting.

You can buy the type that plug into a socket from Homely Hardware in the Ubi industrial area. If I remember correctly the PDL ELimit 1951 that I bought is around $40.00, its Rated for a maximum of 3000W. http://www.pdlglobal.com/brochures/ElimitBrochure.pdf Or if you're handy with wiring, you can stop by Sim Lim Tower or Mustafa Centre (They carry ABB and Merlin Gerin.) in the Electronics area in the basement and get a set of Household circuit breakers and mount it onto a wooden board.

Don't try better. Thats like keeping your pets in a toilet that you clean up once every few months.

Oops double post

You will need at least a 1/5 or 1/4 Horsepower chiller for a 2ft nano. Just need to keep it under 28 Degrees C, 26C - 28C is a good range.

You can do it this way too, but for best effect, put in some pieces of live rock and a small piece of market prawn also when you cycle, otherwise there may not be enough beneficial bacteria to seed the sand. Then like normal cycle, test for Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate detection later on, before you put it into your main tank.

bump for free non-marine pets. I can't take them in because I already have 3 cats...not a good combo

To his credit, he did ask about proper procedures and customs, but the way he phrased it was really dumb and it hinted at illicit trading. These are questions you call or mail the AVA to inquire about, not ask people from other countries on forums. It appears that his intentions were to profiteer from this, and he has made Singaporean reefers look bad in the process..shame.

Bro you might want to try VR Zone, should have much better response there. This is a pretty good LCD, but I'm not in the market for another LCD at the moment, heh.

Seldom hear of problems with Hailea chillers, its the most reliable china brand. They also OEM manufacture chillers for some US / European companies. Those companies just rebrand the chiller and mark up.

Bro what is the total water capacity of your cube? I'm thinking its a lot bigger than it looks. You're using a Koralia Nano and a Koralia 2 together??

Yeah 3 ft should be over 30 gallons, If you have the space forget the nano, go with a bigger tank! having 5 - 15ppm nitrate level is quite normal especially for a nano, just keep up with your weekly water changes can leow. The live sand should help prevent ammonia spikes.

I just pasar malam setup my 28G tank, but I sort of got a bit crazy with the equipment..

Whoah the worm was big enough to get its own tank...power.

Oh yeah bro, forgot to ask you what your nitrate readings were like. If you are under 20ppm you are still ok, just need to change 20% water per week until it drops to below 10ppm, preferably 5ppm. Marine tanks have no way to export or consume nitrates like freshwater tank. The only ways to remove nitrates are: - Frequent Water changes - Denitrator (Expensive) - AZ-NO3 additive (not recommended unless emergency) I think most reefers use option 1 And yeah I forgot to ask, are you using any Protein skimmer (not surface skimmer) or did the tank come with one built in? It will help remove organic waste and help keep nitrates lower too. If you are using one, it is the airstone powered type, and is it skimming off brown gunk?

Actually I've never rinsed or washed my biohome in any of my freshwater tanks. I think you might have occasionally to if it is in front of all filter stages, but if there is filtration before it reaches the biohome should be better to leave it to do its job. Remember to ONLY use tankwater to rinse them, never fresh water mixed or treated water and especially not tap water. Also remove all your ceramic bio-rings better replace all with live rock or biohome, over time rings trap detritus and become nitrate factories, could be one of the reasons your nitrate managed to go as high as 80ppm!! Your livestock was all ok?!

Wow bro you got space! Gogogo, there are a few tanks on sale at the moment in pasar malam, go look look see see. Tank, sump cabinet around $200? Add live sand, live rock, lighting, skimmer and FOWLR good to go leow. If you don't mind 2nd hand I think you budget $500 can leow 2ft, 3ft budget about $600.

Update on DIY FR Chaetofuge. The chaeto seems to be doing well, it has grown almost 25% larger and denser in 4 days. Compare them with my first post pics (they were taken minutes before posting here), its quite scary. Its looking much happier than it did when I put it into the FR, heh. FR is being fed by an Eheim Compact 1002 (1000L/hr) and goes through the chiller before returning directly into the tank. I'll take nitrate measurements before I do a 20% water change tonight to see if it has actually impacted my nitrate levels. My nitrate was at 20ppm after I completed cycling. I did a 50% WC then added the few frags I have in there now. I have been feeding the sun coral frozen Mysis and rehydrated cyclopeeze for the last 2 days though. And I've tried to feed the mushrooms and clavularia some frozen rotifers too, I think I should be feeding them phytoplankton instead? Will post update tonight on nitrate levels.

You want to go real slow with adding more livestock to your tank. Especially since you're not using live sand. But bro, you are already close to or at the limit for the amount of fish that should be comfortably housed in an 8 Gallon. What you might want to look into is adding more live rock into your tank, go for small pieces so you can squeeze many many in, to maximize your bio filtration. But make sure its already cleaned and cured before you add it in! If you change your sand, you might trigger a new cycle and endanger your livestock, probably not wise to do this. I have a better suggestion.. ... .... Buy a 24 Gallon tank and start cycling that with live sand and live rock, then transfer these guys into the bigger tank and keep this to use as a quarantine tank for new livestock

Ah yes good catch! Nitrite 0 too! Yeah having these hitch-hikers is quite normal, as most LR you buy from LFS will not be fully cured. One thing though is you should try to remove most of these undesirable add-ons _before_ you put the LR in to cure and cycle Not a big deal though, just got a little more work cut out for you (hunting) later on before you put any livestock in. You might want to consider adding a wavemaker into your tank now, it might help speed up cycling, and you will eventually need one to improve tank circulation any way. I'd recommend going with a Hydor Koralia Nano or Hydor Koralia 1. The Seio 620 is also quite economical, but I find those to be a little more bulky and unsightly, heh.