yikai

Cirrhilabrus Cyanopleura Blueside wrasse,Blue chested Wrasse. To about 6 inches in length. Obtainable from Indonesia Shipments

Cirrhilabrus Condei

Cirrhilabrus Bathyphilus The Hooded Wrasse. Found in the coral sea. Obtainable in Vanuatu shipments.

Cirrhilabrus Balteatus The Girdled Fairy wrasse. Found in western central pacific, marshall Islands. Can are obtainable in Hawaii shipments. Grows to about 4 inches. Below, a beautiful specimen. Photo credit goes to SRC member Hellbliss.

Cirrhilabrus Adornatus. Sometimes known as debelius fairy wrasse. These fishes grow to about 2 inches or slightly more, and are obtainable from Indonesia shipments.

Hi reefers. Just a short thread on the various species of wrasses from this family. Some basic information regarding the individual species. Hopefully this can help give you more information regarding these fishes and can help you ID your fish too. Hoping to do more of such topics for other family of fishes such as tangs, angels etc. Shall start with wrasses first since they are very common and popular fishes. And also because they're one of my favourites Fairy wrasses or velvet wrasses are zooplankton feeders, and are thus reefsafe. Not only are they hardy, they add a splash of colour to any tank and are very good candidates for reef tanks. All fairy wrasses are sexually dichromatic, which means you can differentiate males and females from their colouration. All of them are hermaphrodites too, which means that females can turn into males if certain conditions are met in their harem. Please feel free to contribute or fill in missing information if i am unable to provide them. all pictures are from the internet and credit should not be given to me, but instead to the website it came from.

have used a german translator from google. sort of understand what it means. setting timer for day and night. guess will have to see if it works tonight. btw if anyone have used this before and wanna share imput please feel free..

Hi guys. have a dimmable set of T5s from gisemann. this thing works great as it can dim the lighting from 100% to 1%. however, does anyone have experience with this? does it come with a timer? and how do you set the timing? everything is in german and i don't understand. tried searching online but cant find anything. any help will be greatly appreciated thanks. i dont need to set timer for dimmability. just a set time for it to on, and off.

oh btw, prices differ from shop to shop. so take ur time look around and do a list if u like.

wrasses more or less standard price. most flashers are very cheap. costing less than 1 red note to more. depending on location too. fairy wrasses are more expensive. cheap ones like solar wrasses, lubbock, yellow fin, whip fin, blue sided, etc cost between 1-2 red notes usually? found in indo shipments. the moderately priced ones from 5 red notes onwards are exquisite, scotts, pylei, pink margin, rosyscales etc. and for the expensive ones we have fishes like rhomboid, lineatus, flame wrasses etc. expect to pay more than 15 red notes for a rhomboid.

i believe heartbreak doesnt even begin to describe it. lost my first rhomboid due to this and already felt like #$@#%. imagine the pain all those big time wrasse players endure. that being said, shallower water species tend to fare much better. all other wrasses except rhomboid, lineatus and flame tend to be more hardy IME, feed readily, and adapt very very well to aquarium life.

agreed. deeper water species like flame, rhomboid, lineatus all very prone to dying mysteriously. they are too delicate and don't take shipping well sometimes. easily stress and get diseased quite readily.

plastic mesh net, the smaller the holes the more lighting it blocks out. and see what colour ur netting. anything except transparent will block light out too. don't add so many of the same wrasse together. unless its 1 male and the rest females, or all females. males will fight. if u add all females, 1 may turn male. some female fairy wrasses are hard to find since females are usually much much duller in colouration compared to males. thus not many lfs bring them in. for example, scott's fairy, exquisite etc, the females are rarer than the males. some other wrasses like rhomboid, females more common. because they are rare and not many males can be caught, so females are often sold together with some males usually people just add males but of different species to have a mix. my comments are based on my personal experience in LFS. some of you might have seen more female than males, but generally, males more commonly found

extremely beautifuil!

wow bad. conjunctivitis? anyway yah take a break! im going holiday 1 week for a break too. come back then stress again

Latest FTS! sorry for the super horrible reflection of my wall murial.

i had the same problem with you. wrasses always jumping. thomas lim's advice is very good and ever since i implemented it, not even a single loss from jumping. get a hood made out of eggcrates. if u wan to play safe, cover the egg crate with mesh netting to prevent smaller ones from jumping. do note that a cover will reduce ur lighting by about 30-50% depending on how thick or opaque ur cover is.

shell tang is sailfin tang? the one with the white stripes

wrasses that need sand are mainly the tamarins (family anampses), pencil wrasses (pseudojuloides), leopard wrasses (macropharyngodon), coris and halichoeres, which includes clown and yellow wrasses. they need the sand to sleep in at night and to feel secure when threatened. they dive into the sand. for wrasses that do not need sand bed and are reef safe, go for fairy wrasses (cirrhilabrus), flasher wrasses (paracheilinus) and the lined wrasses. which includes six line, mystery etc. so please avoid leopards, pencil wrasses, halichoeres, coris, and anampses. do a search on these family and you will know more about them.

oh no i hope they dont steal my frags! coz i got no frags to steal! ONLY COLONY lol! haha!

Leaving on tuesday for 1 week!! this will be the first time im leaving my tank alone for a "long" period with NO ONE at home :S. hope it makes it. meanwhile, leaving it in the hands of my 2 trusted friends. if you guys are reading this, take care for me ok?? . feed fishies and top up water perhaps a 1 week holiday is not so bad. go relax and take a break from reefing. perhaps learn to dive while im away too. then can see them in their natural habitat some of my favourites in my tank before i go using crappy hp camera. tomorrow will be spent packing. BTW bro Joe P. i still have your zoa frag pass it to you after i come back from holiday if its ok with you. if its still alive by then :S

fully agree with the long speech bro reddevilz made. my tank since day 1 has never been dosed with ANY chemicals except AZ-NO3. i dont believe in reefsafe medication too. the active ingrediant to kill parasites has to be non-reef safe in the first place. with that in mind, how can the medicine be reefsafe? [prevention is still the best cure.

all frags 1 2 3 and 4 have been collected. thanks everyone. and to purplefire, sorry for the inconvinience left frag 5 for sale. if no one is interested, i will keep it. ups

told you liao. this fish is a very difficult wrasse. Anampses are one of the more delicate "expert" level fishes. difficult to feed and very delicate. even once settled down, they might go MIA or die for no reason. try enticing it with live brine first. and slowly wean it to frozen

if its indeed an aggression problem, first suspect will be the maroon clown. the purple tang could be quite aggressive too. algae blenny might have some tiffs with your midas blenny since they are conspecifics. wat wrasse is that? some wrasses are fierce.