yikai

ps 32F. Nitrobacter vulgaris and Nitrobacter alkalicus (Holt, 1993). According to Grundmann, Nitrobacter seem to grow optimally at 38°C and at a pH of 7.9, but Holt states that Nitrobacter grow optimally at 28°C and grows within a pH range of 5.8 -8.5 and has an pH optima between 7.6 and 7.8 (Grundmann et al. 2000, Holt, 1993). depends on who u believe. nitrobacter and nitrosoma found in soil posess the above traits. im not sure about thsoe in the sea. could be a different species all together but bearing the same genius nitrobacter/nitrosoma.

tomato v fierce when older!

you will be suprised that some of the bacteria living in our tanks come from the air. nitrosoma, nitrobacter etc can be found living in soil too and are very important for nitrogen cycles on land. so it is not uncommon if these bacteria make way to our aquarium via endospores etc. the nitrosomas and nitrobacter living in soil need an optimum Ph of 7.2-7.5, and die above 49degrees celcius or below 32 C. the ones in our aquarium should be a different strain, because if so, then all will be dead liao haha. if only my school allowed me to culture foreign microbes. this way it will greatly help in knowing the exact requirements of the bacteria in our tank.

LOL! i like it. subtle hinting very nice haha. the golden torches are from australia. CF had plenty of them. dunno wan buy or not v nice.

aiyoh all these too small lah bro! the golden torch corals from aussie at coral farm should do the trick

never had any problems with clown gobies. never understood why it is so "hard" too... it is a goby and is just as easy as any other. mine do take pellets but bite the pellets and slowly nibble it away. fine frozen foods and flakes are best.

according to what i learn in microbiology in school, bacteria has a few stages of growth. the lag phase, where initial cultures do not grow and remain stagnant to get used to surroundings. (this probably happens after bacteria dosing), and to create DNA, enzymes and other biological activities. next comes the log phase where bacteria multiply logarithmically, and cell growth exceeds cell deaths. the 3rd phase is the stationary phase whereby equilibrium is reached reflecting population growth and nutrient usage. final phase is death phase where lack of nutrients occur and colonies of bacteria dies. according to this theory, repeated dosing of food source is needed to keep them alive. and this is done by adding new vodka am i right? o.O paiseh no knowledge on this so have to apply some school into it to try to understand... as for good and/or bad bacteria taking over, i there is no way to tell unless a sample of bacteria can be grown and isolated out of the tank into a pure culture, and most importantly, IDed. It is impossible to tell what the bacteria feeds on unless it is IDed and pin poined to the specific species. for all you know, bad bacteria don't need carbon as a food source. carbon is only one of the multitude of energy source microbes get their energy from. so in this instance its a stab in the dark. have been secretly following this thread ._. quite tempted to try reducing NO3. but for LPS not SPS. :/

i'm a teenager. i know ALOT more also hahahah!! ok ok off topic hehehehhehehehehe

haha! yellow got wat coral. i find v long liao lei. unless yellow leather...

4 inch yellow wrasse not yellow enough???

ahahaha mammary glands! vocab v good. most ppl will use the other alternatives..............

keeping up with the trend. trendy lemon.

Bartlett anthias are excellent choice for starters. If want to try anthias, try bartletts first. other anthias range from difficult to feed to almost impossible to sustain. most other anthias do not respond well to comercial food like the way bartletts do. so this might help in ur choices. of course in time to come, u can pursue other more difficult species like dispars etc.

N1P1

eh u dunno meh? lol haha. baby fat

good advice seldom sound nice. please do not take offence bro vlamingi. like u, i myself am very young. only 4 years older than you. so i understand lol. sometimes as reefers we not only have to know that adding so many fish will result in high NO3, but the living condition in a small tank for these fishes are just way way unbearable for them. think about them next time. separated from the ocean is traumatizing enough, least we can do is provide a good environment for them. be humane the next time you decide to add a fish. think if it is going to be happy. not flaming, just advicing cheers

sure lol.

bartlett anthias are only available from hawaii shipments. best place to get them IMO is from iwarna during hawaii shipments as they carry them by the hundreds (literally), in MOST shipments. go early before the crowd and mass buyers to pick afew for yourself. within a day, 100 bartletts can be sold out.

main reason why they dont eat sometimes is because they are very small, shy fishes. and they do not take pelleted foods readily unless it is small enough for them. i have kept this many times before and all are feeding on small pieces of henry's food. main reason for loss is MIA coz so small. i have one keeping for afew months liao and is eeding on everything including pellets. loves perching on my LPS and doesnt seem to be bothered by the sting.

yeah bartletts school better. chromis will fight amongst themselves until one is left. usually.... when getting a group of anthias always get all females as a dominant one will morph into a male. more than 1 males may fight. alternatively get 1 male and all females. 1 female might moprh and u will end up with 2 males. can keep all successfully together. anthias are quite peaceful even amongst same gender.... only the occasional squabble.

NEVER add those! yes those ARE trevallys! they grow humoungous and eat ALOT. heck u can even cook them once they are big. desi and ketchup, a group of bartletts over chromis is a wiser choice anyday. bartletts are peaceful and MUCH more colourful. best of all, they are the easiest anthias to feed. pellets on day 1 is no issue for this fish. the price is abit of a turn off going for about 10 red notes for 3 lol. but very much nicer in my opinion. anyway i can feel your excitement from here and u two look really happy LOL. stay happy!

haha bro my timing not very zhun 1. sometimes nothing to do just go, so dont have timing.

this is true. many believe that skimmer and scrubber are equally as important, or worse, the same. whilst a skimmer remove hydrophobic molecules such as fats, oils, proteins BEFORE they break down, a scrubber removes the nutrients that are generated AFTER these compounds have degraded, into NO3, PO4 and wat not. this is from my understanding on the issue. in my opinion a skimmer and a scrubber will work hand in hand to give very good nutrient control. one for removing stuff before degration, and the other for absorbing it once they have degraded. this is of course, to my understanding of the scrubber and skimmer. everyone has their own opinion and is best to read up and list your options. that is why we decided to unpin this topic.

for u. if u want

henry's food should work. clown gobies are not difficult to feed.... like many gobies. make sure food is small enough for them to swallow