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yikai

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Everything posted by yikai

  1. found within our indo waters but i just never see them in LFS. it's dam cute
  2. and the ultra rare hawkfish that's also only found on ASI.
  3. canthigaster leoparda. leopard toby. one of my favourites. always see it for sale in liveaquaria. never seen it in singapore before though... anyone seen before?
  4. Chaetodon sacntaehelenae if i not wrong only found in ASI where resplendens is found. there are not much corals there so this would be an excellent reef safe butterfly. too bad its unobtainable
  5. haha fish deformities craze. yah lah! dunno where you get these funny ideas.
  6. terryz. this is the butterfly i was telling you about from CF maldive shipment. C. xanthocephalus.
  7. 50 to slightly over hundred. this is the cheapest member of the "tinkeri complex" which features burgess, declives, mitratus, tinkeri and flavocornatus. the last one is unattainable coz it's too rare and expensive.
  8. digiman, one of the blennies we caught is a natural deformed one. it's born without a pelvic fin. you wan? lol.
  9. the aussy hooded is indeed awesome and i do agree that's the normal colours. the nachyaki pair is VERY NICE! this is something i want. the "aurantidorsalis" looks like a female solar wrasse. in fact i would say it is. but the "male" version is unlike anything i've seen.
  10. freshly laid eggs are not transparent. only when they are matured then they turn colourless and then only you can see the eyes from the baby fish inside. but some fish like angels and wrasses, tangs etc, spawn colourless pelagic eggs. to my limited knowledge on fish lifecycle, usually colourless eggs are laid by fishes that spawn by releasing their eggs in the water and letting the eggs float away.
  11. all of them are feeding on mysis now!
  12. all the ultra rare omobranchus blennies are feeding on mysis now!! woot!
  13. if you are keeping SPS, try to get it as low as possible. below 5 is good i think. for LPS and softies, nitrates are not a problem. even at 100ppm mine were flourishing. but it's not advised to go so high. 10-20 is still healthy range.
  14. chaeto is only useful if grown in really large quantities. comparing to your tank size of course. a better way would be to control your feeding and bioload. as well as regular water changes. and if need be, chemical methods
  15. hypo should be done in a barebottom tank. the smoother the surface, the less chance the ich parasites cyst can attach after infecting your fish, making it easier to siphon out. sand, rocks etc are not needed in a QT tank.
  16. a) ich only infects fish. if your fish have ich, as long as you have fish in your tank, regardless wether they are showing visible signs of the white spots or not, they are still infected. the only way to remove all traces of ich parasite is to remove ALL fishes, treat them, and let the tank be fishless for 3-4 weeks. UV only kills stuff that come into contact with the UV light. this means only free living parasites and other living microorganisms living in the water will be killed once they come in contact with the UV rays. The population of bacteria occurs mainly in your rocks, sand and mechanical filters. whatever that's in the water is negligible and will not be affected.
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