albinosage

I dunno about crabs, but I do know that the nuisance crabs simply refuse to die no matter how dirty the water becomes haha.

Totally wrong already, from step 4 onwards, that's like a recipe for guaranteed disaster. Doesn't matter if there's shell or head for the prawn, the idea is to introduce some rotting organism into the water for the bacteria to feed on and grow. This bacteria population will support your biological filtration and consume the waste of your future live stock. That's why some people will cycle with hardy livestock, cos the fish will consume food, and contribute waste to the system which bacteria feeds on. In theory, peeing into the tank would serve the same purpose hahaha, but please don't try that, and if you do, don't tell anyone that it's my idea! LOL!

Oh I didn't answer your last question about whether they can be kept with fish. They should be ideally kept in a small/medium tank with non aggressive fish, cos they are kinda slow and not very smart. They are very likely to get bullied by faster fishes, and will definitely lose out to them when it comes to feeding time. Mine can stare at his food for a full minute before deciding if it is something edible. Thankfully the other livestock in my tank are mostly bottom feeders. Corals might not be suitable too depending on what kind of corals you have, cos they like to hook their tails against anything they can grip, your corals might not like being molested all day.

A tigertail the common name of one of the many species of sea horse. Can be identified by the grey or brown alternating stripes on the yellow tail, thus the name tigertail. One of the more commonly available sea horse locally, and does quite well in captivity. Do a Google search for the images and more info on care for them. I saw some of them at Aquamarin at Katong and Jalan Kayu recently, I'm sure they are pretty common at most fish farms too.

No problem, I was ordering from the site anyway, so no harm getting extra to try. Have to thank you instead for pointing us to this alternative antidote Title where got cheem, have to put as much info as possible and let ppl decide mah

Hi all, have the following item to sell, ordered extra to save on shipping. Only 2 bottles remaining, selling at $27.50 each. I'm doing this as a service to the bros here, not for self interest or profit and I'm charging exactly how much it cost me to order it, including the bank exchange rate. Please PM me if interested, FCFS. For those of you who want to know more about the use of vitamin C as an additive, here's some info from another drug company: Bro Amby's original thread that piqued my curiosity: ambystoma82's thread Discussion on Vitamin C from reef central: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...mp;pagenumber=1

Have to share my expensive mistakes so others can save time and money wat... Anyway, a 4 week waiting period is not that bad either, can use the time to remove crabs and other pests from the live rocks, so you don't have to go through the hassle and ka cheow the rockscape in future when it is fully stocked.

There is no proven shortcut in cycling a tank. When I cycled my tank for the first time, I tried all kinds of methods to speed up the process. Add bacteria lah, use cured live rocks lah, expensive packaged live sand lah, all kinds of rubbish I read about. Guess what? NO2 only drop to zero exactly on day 28! Oh any one thing to note, while some may advise you to change water when cycling, please refrain from doing so, cos it will only slow down the process. You need Ammonia to reach the maximum level before it falls and creates Nitrite, and in turn you need Nitrite to max out before falling so the final product Nitrate is produced. When you change water during the process, you are not really allowing the gases to reach their peak, only delaying the process. Try not to cycle with live stocks either, not that it doesn't work, but it is really cruel. I made that mistake, and it was an emotional rollercoaster day by day, watching the fish gasp and struggle through the toxic gases produced during cycling. It's exactly the same as putting a human in a room with raw sewage for a month

Still available?? I came back from reborn just now, didn't see any, or maybe I'm too tired to spot them

Ah so you were the one who bought them from reborn? I went to find them today Maybe it is the stress from being introduced to a new environment, see if they will eat after a couple of days when they're hungry.

Aparrently it is PH buffered, so it will not alter PH of the water significantly. It is basically pure ascorbic acid with sodium bicarbonate. I only bought it cos amby's thread made me curious to try hahaha. There is a long discussion on reef central, many people have posted positive results, but I'm taking it with a pinch of salt, won't really believe until I try

I need to check the package too, only got delivery confirmation to my home from DHL this afternoon, but I'm at work, haven't open to see yet. Must check to make sure that I got the right stuff mah, what if I open it up and it's all flour??? Anyway we OT liao, I will post a thread on pasar malam to sell the remaining vit c.

PM replied, sms you liao I still got 2 bottles left over, will post in pasar malam when i get some pictures tonight.

I just got one early this month, started with live brine shrimp to get him used to feeding position and timing, by the end of the week when I started on frozen, he recognises it as food. It also helps that I am keeping it in a nanocube and the other inhabitants have no interest in frozen mysis, won't fight for food hahaha.

Bro, I misread it at first too, but he's talking abt NO2, nitrite, not NO3, nitrate. To TS: I suppose you didn't cycle the tank for at least 4 weeks right? The most common reason why NO2 will jump so high is either a mass die off or new tank syndrome, where your bio filter media is still inmature. I'm guessing both, since you were having so much problem with your livestocks. Do a water change and cycle your tank properly once more.

It depends on how well you mixed it. Letting it rest doesn't actually benefit or harm the water, it's just to make sure that there is no undissolved residue, any of which would sink to the bottom. Sometimes these particles are not visible to the n-aked eye, but will settle onto corals and harm them. I leave it for 36 hours stirring continuously with a powerhead on, just to make sure that it is evenly mixed and to get as much salt to dissolve as possible. More an issue of me being kiasu or patient, whichever way you look at it. I've no complaints abt coral life, any mishaps with this salt is my own fault for being lazy and impatient at that time haha. I think red sea is much worse than coral life when it comes to undissolved salt particles, I would get at least 4 to 5 tablespoons of undissolved salt after stirring overnight.

It's probably gas produced by the algae in the rock photosynthesizing, quite normal if observed to be in small quantity, but if the green stuff spreads, it is probably your water parameters (NO3, PO4) you should be concerned about, not the lights.

I use Coral Life salt too, I think the residue problem is prevalent in old stock, or those that have been opened for some time. I usually mix it with a powerhead for 36 hours or more, and there will be less than 2 tablespoons of white residue swirling at the bottom of the bucket. I'll just siphon the clear water out and use it, leaving the remaining bit of water and particles behind. Made a mistake of stirring by hand and using the water as is, when i just started my home tank. Killed a colony of zoos

Cool... Will pay them a visit again, looking to buy live sand too

As far as I know, they told me they were sold out at both branches when I was there 2 weeks ago, but I don't know if they meant Nature's Ocean live sand or all live sand, cos I wasn't aware that they carry this brand.

Any updates from TS? Curious about how the tank is doing now. Hope all is well

Confirmed is not 75 watts that's for sure I got 350W from AM website. Other websites with the Arctica chiller product specs don't list the consumption, closest I got is this: http://www.jbjchillers.com/index1.html Model | H/P | Volts | Amps DBA-075 | 1/10 hp | 115 | 2.63 Volts X Amps = 302.45 Watts? I might be missing something here, but that's the gist of it

Erm... The Artica 1/10hp chiller actually consumes 350 watts if I'm not wrong. 1/10hp (75 watts) is the cooling power of the chiller, but doesn't mean it's the total electricity consumed.

Hey bro, milky water, mucus from the anemone, high NO2.... sorry to say, it sounds like the anemone is gonna die very soon. From personal experience, it is impossible to reverse the process once these symptoms show. Once the anemone mouth opens wide, vomits mucus and looks like it is turning inside out, or when the tentacles shrink and generally it looks mutated, it is time to throw it away before it disintegrates and crash your tank.

Count me in for 10kg