lightningstrike

modified maxijet is juz having the nozzle sawed off. it will look something like what FuEl has done here. Red Sea Wavemaster Pro will look like this. am oso using wavemaster pro wif 4x maxijets. definitely a worthy buy for small to medium-sized tanks. upz for u joolye.

i think it is a matter of preference at the end of the day. if i were to choose to put both phosphate remover media and carbon in my cannister, i wld place the carbon in first then the phosphate remover media last (juz b4 the water exit the cannister). reason being many GAC contains and leeches phosphate. so wouldn't it be more logical for the phosphate remover media to absorb the (supposingly) phosphate from the GAC b4 the water gets back to the main tank? juz my opinion.

any reason for putting phosphate remover media b4 GAC?

point worth considering, but is also quite unlikely coz the U pipe goes down quite deep all the way to the bottom of the internal i box. the bubbles that r formed during the transition, shld not be able to get into the U-Pipe easily.

sps and many lps corals do not directly feed on phytoplankton. instead, they feed on zooplankton that in terms feed on the phytoplankton. ur sps and lps corals seems to thrive shld be more or less contributed by the addition of omega acids and vitamin supplements in aquatim. increase in pods population might also be another factor. my point is SPS & many LPS corals do not feed on phytoplanktons directly. juz 2 cents.

i disagree on this. if u observe the I-Box carefully, u will notice that a siphon break is not possible unless u take out the U-pipe intentionally.

The australian government hv oredi a casino there now.

Christmas island was only under the jurisdiction of colony of singapore then, dun forget that was in the immediate period after WWII till 1957. singapore was still under colonial rule. so indirectly it belonged to the british. compensation package was 2.9 million sterling pounds according to this webbie.

read this and u will know i hv been down this long hard road b4 too. same chiller....... upz for ur sales.

but am curious what happened to ur chiller? what brand?

is this filmed at the original location where it all started??? Gunma, Japan.

according to this website, the recommended flowrate is 400L/hr.

my tank is a juwel rio 180. tank dimension 101cm (L) x 50cm (W) x 41cm (H).

cool it guys........ com'on it is juz a game.......... watch....... complain.......... forget it.......... u win some, u lose some. peace

no worries. u hv the same tank as i do. RIO 180? did u incorporate a overflow & sump? what skimmer r u using?

a flame angel whom will display "zhun zhun" 4D numbers which changes every 4D draw day on its body instead of the usual black vertical bars.

so sorrie.... my mistake. nice tank.

i see many many rics on the sandbed. r those floridas? i oso see a pesky rock anemone.

maybe instead of aqualight 20kk tubes, u wld like to consider AquaZ actinic T5s. both r quite different in colour contrast and brightness. if got monies to burn, can go for ATI tubes.

u'll hv to ask the T5s DIYers to find out more.

kH too low, add buffer to increase. 8 to 12 dkH is the general guideline. NO2 should be zero. NO3 is on the moderate high side. do a partial water change and see how things go. read abt elegance coral here. u can use the dymax T5s to DIY, but u will need to change the light tubes and ballasts.

i believe most office building and shopping centres hv mailboxes shoved away somewhere in the basement or whatsoever.

Dymax T5s r not HO T5s. u can try asking one of the DIYers here to teach u how to make a HO T5 set or buy a set off them. but i dunno how much it is gonna cost. try browsing thru the DIY forum for more info. Overhead filtration........ i wun suggest that. best if u hv a sump, else a cannister will do, but some work needed to maintain it. more specs and details pls.

1 reason why i m hesitant abt changing my lights to 250W, my tank's depth is onli 41cm, left with 1 feet depth after deducting DSB. oredi using 2 x 150W and 4 x 39W T5s.