lightningstrike

a tee junction will solve ur worries. u dun need a seperate pump to feed water into the CR. tee off from the main return pump will do.

i dun find using skimmate to kick off ANN cycle sounds stupid. the worst it can get is that u get an ammonia spike which is what aStRoBo| wants in order to kick start the cycle. the purpose of skimming really comes into effect after the ANN cycle to remove whatever DOC........ leaving beneficial bacterial to grow and colonise on the sand / LRs and do what it is suppose to do. no LS will be in the tank during the ANN cycle. so there is no cause for worry.

flub, think u better set a minimum bidding price and in standard unit increment......... else go on forever liaoz......... upz for u.

depends on what made is ur CR. normally, a complete CR will come with bubble counter, recirculation pump, etc. u will need to get urself Ca media e.g. ARM, CO2 cannister, regulator (with dual gauge and needle valve will be good), silicon tubing, pH controller (if compatible). .......... i think that's abt it.

dun worry bro, start afresh when ur new tank is ready. btw, here r the pics..... Monti eating nudis flatworms

flatworms??? nudibranches??? or sps eating snails (drupella cornus)???

the crab looks evil.

think i read somewhere that Petmart oso carries QuietOne pumps. give them a ring to check it out.

budget??? what u wanna keep??? is long-term electrical cost a concern???

meaning that u will choose to dose Ca and kH via prepared bottle additives??? all u need r relevant reliable testkits (e.g.Salifert) and the relevant additives. normally, the instructions r on the packaging of the bottle itself. there will be info such as dosing how much additives will increase how much Ca/kH. and there is a limit to how much u can dose every other day or so. juz follow the instructions on the packaging accordingly.

urrmmm......... *slurp*???

i think christina aguilera looks better........ where's moron_clown's avatar???

wah liew...... weisoon, very confusing leh ....... think wait for ur pic better la.......

confused. NO2 = nitrite NO3 = nitrate

try to see if there is a clip at the end of the shaft of both ends....... u need to take that out b4 u can remove the rollers.

weisoon, u mean the roller fan inside the FCU???

no worries. maybe i shld start a chiller maintenance service when i return.

hi weisoon, i might be outdated too, since i m away for so long. alfaromeo, suggest u call the respective LFS b4 u make a wasted trip due to my outdated info.

2 ft??? hmmm...... u might wanna consider adjusting the valve on ur tee junction so as to compensate for a bit of head loss. but i find the thing u shld do now is to get the chiller serviced. think lots of sludge and FOD might be stucked in the heat exchanger, adversely affecting its performance. try to contact cookiemunster (SRC sponsor) to do the servicing for u.

i dunno leh bro. check it out at a LFS near u.

jc, u hv urself a wellsi there.

bro, how big u want? 5L? what cylinder u want oso? iron made or aluminium made? aluminium made: petmart iron made: shop beside iwarna or NA @ Balestier.

hi sirius, few points for u to consider, hope it helps. 1. how far is ur cannister away from ur chiller? (head loss) 2. get an accurate thermometer, measure the temp in ur tank (or somewhere close to the cannister inlet) juz as the compressor cuts off. is the temp measured similar to that of the preset temp? 3. is the chiller 2nd hand? when was the last time the chiller has been brought for servicing/maintenance? 4. the outlet water flow of ur chiller, issit very slow? my best guess: the thermostat/controller is faulty, under/over charging of refrigerant in system, water coil in heat exchanger choked.

place ur carbon in the sump area b4 the FR containing rowa.