lightningstrike

upz.

no worries bro, i was not trying to confuse ppl with terror terms, juz bolded out the main sentences to highlight the differences, so easier for ppl to see. little did i know, i made thing worse. :p:p btw wa_lanz, nice pc (irregardless whether it is a acan or micromussa) u hv there.

i do not see the papillae and septa, i did not say that i did. i am juz judging from the extended fleshes and whatever i can see of the coralites. micromussas polyps r closely knitted most of the time, look at the distance btw each polyps in Jendub's post. i did some comparisons myself in RC for wa lanz pc, there r 2 great pictorial threads (sadly, both threads had been closed due to obvious reasons), 1 for micromussas and the other for acans. as i hv said, i still think it's not a micromussa, but an acan lord. although both r from the Mussidae family and r easily mistaken. btw bro, what makes u so sure that it's not an acan lord? Acans pictorial thread in RC. Micromussas pictorial thread in RC.

Aqualight Retrofit Dual T5s up for sales. Specs: Made in Germany. Dual T5 tubes with internal ballast.. slimmer retrofit design, smaller footprint. waterproof end-caps. comes with 2x DE Lightings parabolic T5 "M" reflectors (retailing @ SGD16 each). comes with 2x39W Aqualight Coral Blue (20,000k) T5 tubes (retailing @ SGD28 each). (less than 3 months usage) selling the whole set @ SGD200.(non-nego) I reserve the right to sell. Collection @ Bishan unless otherwise arranged.

a macro shot of the above. i hope it helps.

still think it's not a micromussa, but an acan lord. although both r from the Mussidae family and r easily mistaken. the characteristics resembles that of acan lord. characteristics of Micromussa amakusensis: Colonies are cerioid with neat angular corallites up to 8 millimetres diameter. Septa have 1-3 large teeth. Colonies have a thick fleshy mantle usually covered with fine papillae. characteristics of Acanthastrea lordhowensis: Colonies are massive and cerioid, with laterally compressed corallites of uneven height. Walls are acute: septa are thick, with large teeth. Columellae are barely developed. Colonies have a thick fleshy mantle which is covered by fine papillae. The pic shown is my micromussa. see the diff?

IMHO, looks like it's acan lords.

any clearer pic on that? can't really tell if it is a micromussa.

and Eric Borneman wrote this in Nov 2004: "I consider "long-term" in aquariums to be on the order of years. The debates being mentioned above have occurred within the past year, and already fierce proponents extol the relative benefits and detriments of one way or the other. My view is that time and adequate experimentation and measurement will tell the tale. To me, having a 6" deep sand bed for eight years with no measurable nitrate or phosphate and no regular or intentional water changes says something. I have outstanding coral growth and great coloration. In fact, my tank has never looked better. I'm keeping the vodka for myself." Reference: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/eb/feature/index.htm I'm keeping my vodka to myself 2. i wld hv raised the qns. and for the record, i still do know and see reefers in RC that hv DSBs. IMHO, this will be a yes and no answer again. I wld strongly believe that one will only loses complete control when there is a lack of maintenance and understanding as to in how DSB works. I'm spending time in here coz i wld like fella hobbyists here to keep an open mind on this subject. there's absolutely no right or wrong answer here at this point of time. IMHO, irregardless of which method u choose to follow, if it is working well for u, so be it. if it's not, ask urself why not and seek other options. "if u had never asked, u'll never learn. such is the rule of the thumb, the blind leading the blind." Cheers with a glass of vodka.

Yes....... and so potentially they did........ but as far as i can see, often negligence or failure to understand the functionability of DSB points to these failures. at the same time, there r also living real life examples that will point to u that every single inch of DSB works. what's the point of debating who's absolutely right or wrong? IMHO, there r no absolute answers. hv an open mind.

did not see any DT's for sale. maybe i was too busy grossing over some new toys....... especially the surging device and the 2HP Artica chiller. those who r hunting for cyclopeeze, dun worry......... there r plenty, plenty, plenty........ on a whole, i feel Aquarama 2005 is a tinge smaller in scale compared to 2003. but still, as always, an eye opener. enjoy urselves.

u will NEVER believe this....... 60th min: Liverpool drew level, it is 3-3 now.

AC Milan 3-0 up at half-time.

was using 2x Dymax 150W clip on MH for my previous setup. had no problems whatsoever with them.

as i hv put forth, substantial water change.

u r having an ionic imbalance. ur Mg is abt there (a little low), Ca is way off low and kH is way off high. Normal parameters shld read (results varies, pls dun hold me to this), Mg: ard 1400ppm Ca: ard 380ppm kH: 8-12dkH the cloudy water u see is calcium precipitation. the best and the fastest way to correct ur parameters will be to do a substantial (IMHO, preferably 50%) water change. but be forewarned that existing LS, corals, etc in ur tank might suffer negative after-effects of a sudden change in parameters. Mg, kH, Ca r proportional and related in parts to one another (sadly, i do not hv the info on the exact proportions).

u hv yet to see the 3 easily 8" to 10" grandfather ATs.........

wait...... wait...... wait.......

uv filter glass is juz tempered glass.

my photography skills and digicam CMI. waiting for someone like u to come take photos for me.

caught sight of my argi swimming pass. dunno why this pic turns out looking photoshopped.

my fave pc of encrusting monti.

acans corner. pls excused the overexposed efflo.

update on my little ric garden.