lightningstrike

if u really wanna get rid of it badly....... soak the LR in FW...... that's the fastest way........ but all LS on LR will die too.......

yes...... was driving thru geylang road a few days ago and saw at least 3 new LFS there. din go in though...... maybe next time, Geyland Road will be more famous with marine fish rather than "chicks" ....

for the moment..... yes. but it's kind of fustrating not being able to know when exactly i am going to japan..... lots of things to tie down b4 i go.......

macroalgae....... dunno the name for it...... exactly the same as those bought from coral farm as i got mine there. dun need to buy la....... juz come and take...... but a few hardworking snails will do fine....

juz the bottle.

hv bought the remora skimmer..... works well....... hv bought the tubby and KR too....... trip to japan has been suspended till further notice by my company....... heard from my boss saying that my application to work in japan for 6 mths hv been rejected by the japanese govt....... dunno why???? must hv been my past criminal record for stealing corals!!! not true!!! juz joking.......

read this thread. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2622 an abstract from the above thread to address ur qns. Part IV: Kelvin and CRI Kelvin temperature of light, for our purposes*, refers to the relative blue vs. red appearance of the light being emitted. The redder a light source appears, the lower the Kelvin temperature. Conversely, the bluer a light source appears to be, the higher the Kelvin temperature. Most quality lights sold specifically for freshwater aquariums have a Kelvin temperature of 5,000 to 6,500K, and produce a relatively “warm” white light that is said to simulate sunlight. Bulbs sold for marine aquaria have Kelvin temperatures ranging roughly from 6,500 to 20,000K. The greater relative intensities of blue wavelengths in the light emission are thought to be more beneficial to photosynthetic marine organisms that often live at depths in which very little red light is able to reach. Actually, the higher Kelvin temps may be more for display than practicality. Although sunlight is progressively filtered with increasing depth in ocean water, 6,500K lights are still a no-nonsense approach to providing a reef system with an appropriate source of light. Even so, 10,000K lamps seem to have a more aesthetic appeal to them. Not too blue, not too yellow. It should be noted that the actual Kelvin temperature of a new bulb sometimes varies quite markedly from the manufacturer’s stated Kelvin temperature. Unfortunately for the vast majority of consumers, there is no inexpensive means to get the actual Kelvin of a bulb, so in a sense you’re at the mercy of the manufacturer’s “word”. This is one explanation for the difference in apparent color of two “same Kelvin” bulbs produced by different manufacturers. There’s no reason to panic, however. Corals don’t care if a light is exactly 6,500K, 7,100K, 10,000K, etc. All they are interested in is a light source that is of high enough intensity, while simultaneously providing the correct wavelengths at the correct relative levels. So if a “10,000K” bulb has an actual temperature of 9,000 or 11,000K, it won’t matter much to the corals. I will briefly touch on the extremely controversial topic of “which bulb is best”. There is no correct answer to that subject that suits every aquarium. Organisms originate from various depths of the reef, some are in full sunlight, some are shaded beneath other organisms or in caves, some live in water with high turbidity, etc. If your aquarium houses animals that are all found in the same section of the reef in the same “light” conditions, then you can choose a general Kelvin temperature that will replicate the organism’s “natural habitat”. Cases such as this are extremely rare. Practically every reef tank will have a mix of animals that originate in various conditions. Therefore, a wide approach to lighting the aquarium may prove most beneficial. A mix of 6,500K, actinic, 10,000K, and 20,000K bulbs will probably satisfy the light needs of all photosynthetic organisms, provided the intensity of light is high enough. Actually, a combination of 6,500K and actinic bulbs has been a “reef standard” for quite some time, and with good results. Aside from providing the correct light regime for corals, the observer also needs to be satisfied with the entire reef scene. This is one reason that you see few aquariums illuminated entirely with actinic lights. All in all, most photosynthetic reef organisms will successfully adapt to “foreign” light conditions, given enough time. *There is a little more to Kelvin temperature than my simple explanation above, but it’s more applicable to Physics than to aquariums. When an object is heated to high enough temperatures, it begins to glow (incandescence). The radiation emitted has different characteristics according to the temperature of the object. At relatively “low” temperatures, the object gives off more of a red glow. The hotter the object becomes, the more blue and less red it becomes. This behavior is tested in Physics with an object known as a “blackbody”, which reflects no light, yet radiates light as it’s heated. CRI or Color Rendering Index is a relative measurement of the light source as it compares to sunlight over the equator at sea level at noon. The higher a CRI is, the more closely that light source resembles the sun in those conditions. CRI is an important factor when selecting so-called “daylight” lamps (5000-6500K), but is of little importance to bulbs emitting a lower or higher Kelvin temperature. If a daylight bulb has a CRI over 90, it approximates the “color” of the sun fairly well, while a bulb with a CRI around 80 is not as desirable. Only a few lamp manufacturers readily advertise information about the CRI of their products, and as expected, these are some of the better CRI ratings to be found in the hobby. Information on CRI of a lamp should be available from its manufacturer. If they don’t have the lamp specs available for some reason, that’s an indication that you’re not speaking to the original manufacturer of the lamp. By the way, the “standard” actual daylight Kelvin temperature is roughly 6000K.

Items for sale/swop: 1. D.I.Y Kalk Dripper (bought from Bio Ocean) 2. Coralife Trace Elements, 1/2 bottle left. free harvested macroalgae to go with the sale/swop. selling all for $10, or swop for cleaning crew, e.g. snails.

yes. Par@d$# R@@f is in lavender area.

i use a expired credit card to clean the film of algae btw the sandbed and the glass, as for the sandbed, i bought cerith snails and a black sea cuke to do the job. works alright for me.

read all the pinned up threads in new to the marine aquaria forum. will do u lots of good..... happy reefing.....

bro RAV-65, trying out with a frag first will more cost friendly than buying a colony.... go for those sps that r relatively easier, e.g. staghorns...... juz me 2 cents......

any pics??

the golden head sleeper goby??? not very gentle IMHO..... u might wanna try cerith, nassarius snails or a brittle star..... those r much more gentler IMO.

bro, i think that's too strong, get something which is pulsating or rotational.......

skimmer still upz.... for grabs.....

upz.....

DeepBlue bought the last yashia there.

go for cabinet. it will be a better choice...... dun forget we r dealing with SW here.

roidan..... that's a great looking bubble coral....... anymore available??

smuggle???

TP normally gives allowance of plus/minus 10% of the speed limit...... guess u kena 6 points???

any nice corals in pasir ris??

anyone been to ######## recently, any idea if the mexican turbo snails r still available???

maybe u should pm bro jc85 on this.