lightningstrike

Aquaconnect Red Dragon.

live argonite sand is ex. juz used normal grade 0 or 1 sand will do.

the I-box by Ian, virtually noise free.

yes. not very safe. as u know the marine environment in our waters r not very clean. why not juz buy grade 0 sand off marine lfs. they r not ex. abt $6 per 10kg.

it depends on what fishes u wanna feed. some picky eaters dun take pellets at all. but IME, i find ocean nutrition formula 1 and 2 quite alright.

if the sight glass is not available, then juz hv to make do with the manifold gauge for the charging amount. what alvy stated is correct. charge only when chiller is running with full load.

i hv not faced the problem of insufficient flow and my sps were thriving b4 it crashed. like u, the impatient me had squeezed abt 40 to 50 sps colonies in my 3.3 footer. my flow r as follows, 4x maxijet 1200 wif wavemaster pro. 1x tunze 6060. 2000l/hr aquabee return. 1x juwel PH 900l/hr cannister return ehiem 2026, return 950l/hr. sorry i hv no pix to share as i m currently not in spore. IME, the trick is to position ur pumps/PH in such a way that most areas r covered. but of coz, dun blow the pump/PH at ur sps directly. IMHO, random wave motion and simulated day/night motion will be good. this is where the wavemaster pro or the tunze controller/photocell comes inmost of the flow generated by the above mentioned equipments mostly cover the top 1/2 of my tank where all my sps were hosted. for the bottom 1/2, i only utilised 2x maxijets and my tunze 6060 for circulation to prevent dead spots to the best i can. it will also be best if u r able to place ur corals as in to sps covering one area, lps one corner, softies, so on and so forth. so that u can utilize ur flow to better proportions. another thing to add is that flow is not the all impt thingy in keeping sps. lots of other impt parameters to keep an eye on as well. e.g. NO3, PO4, Ca, dKH, lightings and photo period, temp, corals compatability, etc. juz to name a few. as i hv mentioned b4, i hv seen a reefer utilizing only his Red Dragon return from one outlet to great effect in his mixed reef tank as per urs and mine. for a clearer picture, might wanna see as per signature and link to my tank b4 it crashed. juz me 2 cents.

do a search for pheonix bulbs, u shld be able to get a review on it by one of the senior reefer here. u'll be surprised with the results. i used to hv a mixed reef too. read my signature. juz imagine my turnover rate. the trick is how u position ur PH.

as for charging amt, the normal way to do it is to gauge from the sight glass. gauge line is where the bubbles juz abt clear in the sight glass. hi alvy, thxs for the valuable info.

to be frank, i m not very certain as to what is the exact value for superheat, it varies from car to car, system to system. and yes a pressure cut off switch is incorporated to the comp.

u'll be surprised. 1 of my nannies hv been keeping sps in his 4x2x2 without the use of a single wavemaking device. but he uses a red dragon return though.

for industrial, commercial and domestic a/c...... yes R22 is the common one....... but for cars....... R134a. TEV??? this sounds foreign to me...... do u mean TXV??? a.k.a expansion valve? really so sorry for getting so here.

IMHO, redo ur sump or take out the unnecessary partitions. cotton: up to individual preference. but it's a no no for me. will lead to high nitrate levels if not regularly maintained. bioballs, coral chips: definite no no for me! will lead to high nitrate levels in future. leave the 1st and last compartment for carbon/skimmer (in sump) and return pump. centre for dsb. as large a surface area as possible. juz me 2 cents.

yes. diff wattage, diff heat load.

u might wanna refer to this thread. or do a search on fish trap. good luck. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...62&hl=fish+trap

well, in a/c principles r pretty much the same whether it is for the automobile, commercial, industrial or domestic entities. but as for chillers, i think a cooling core is used. superheat for car a/c system is based on calculations and deriviations from testing. charging amt for refrigerant, e.g. R134a is based on performance subjected to a hot room test.

hv u considered 14kk? phoenix bulbs r not that bad. 20kk might wanna consider BLV....... quite good IMHO. tunze 6060 might not be enuff for ur tank size.

hi weisoon, u'll be surprised to know that i m working on a HVAC project for an automobile in japan now.

try waterlife octozin or myzaxin.

shld be able to find in petmart.

u can try the following threads or pm the reefers who posted them. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=18251 http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=20776 http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...790&hl=typrobin http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...987&hl=typrobin

if u r not in 2 much of a hurry for this DIY chiller project, maybe i can help u with my so called "expertise" in a/c in december when i come back from japan. i m quite interested in developing 1 too. but i'll hv to warn u, i know nuts abt the electrical/electronics aspects.

the more the merrier indeed!!! me too.

well, i use my 6060, 4x maxijets 1200 wif wavemaster pro, 1x 900l/hr juwel powerhead, cannister return 950l/hr, aquabee return 2000l/hr on my 3.5 footer juwel tank to no ill effects. think the catch is how u position ur pumps and powerheads.

well, like wat the mod said, the coraline algae can grow faster then wat the urchin can eat. thing to look out for urchin is that it may topple ur corals. and of coz handle wif care.