brojj

Beautiful colors using orphek. But expensive lightset. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Aquapharm. Not very high end but decent enough. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Same here. Can PM me the price too. Thks. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Anybody know where to get the GHL mitras here? Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Noh. As long as u gave a chiller & not using metal halides, they will not be overcooked. If u re talking about lights acclimation, i think maybe need. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Try option 1. LED + T5 combo is solid. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

In anywhere, there will sure be some 'black sheeps'. We oursleves just have to be more careful. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

OMG. It is a most unfortuate incident. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Yes, most of the LED comes from china. However, different brands customise the arrangements of the LEDs, usuage of the types & number of colors are different. As such, the spectrum of the lights they give out is different, most should be quite close to what the lights gurus/ users can accept based on corals reactions. Another most noticable differences is the controller features to control the lights, whether they are user friendly, easy to program 10k, 16k, 14k, 20k...etc. Orphek altantik is slightly different as they emphasis on PUR, built based on their own R&D. Of course, depth penetration of this lightset is also considered. Most other brand lightsets so far i only notice they talk about only PAR, of course, they have their own R&D to further improve theirs. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Yes, Bro pandagold. Based on my own experience, some traces of NO3 does help in SPS colors, long term health & survival. Not only SPS but also other corals. Exact concentration i am not too sure but around 2-5ppm should not be a problem. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Different tanks, different results. One man's meat might be another's poison. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Depending on your tank's volume, your bioload & what livestock u are keeping inside. Purpose of water change or WC(in short) is to reduce NO3, PO4 & replenish important traces elements. Smaller tanks require more frequent WC due to NO3 & PO4 build up faster in terms of concentration compared to larger tanks (more volume of water) & WC for these smaller/nano are being conducted almost weekly(light bioload, FOWLR, soft corals) & every other few days (heavy bioload, corals, SPS). For larger tanks, 2ft & above, again depending on above for nanos, WC are being conducted, monthly, twice a month or weekly. It will be good to provide us with more info on your tank volume & what u intend to keep inside for us to provide more concise advices for u. Salt mixes are basically salts (dried crystal form) harvested from some oceans. Sea water is being dried up using modern technology & extra elements, are added, Ca, Mg or KH. Those with added elements sea salt are meant for reef tanks. For those without, they will be used in FOWLR or some less demanding soft corals. Sea water/ NSW will be in liquid form. Sea water are also taken from the ocean & go thro' filtration before been sold in plastic bags or containers to those who find it a hassle to mix sea salt with RO/DI water. However, sea water will contain benefical bacteria & nasty ones. For those using salt mix, benefical bacteria can be bought & added. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Both brands are fine with me. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

I start off with fake corals but later find them 'boring'. That was 4 years ago. Now i have 100% real corals, ranging from soft corals to zoas to LPS to SPS & clams. 'Live' ones are but better than 'fakes', at least they are much more colorful, have response & my SPS 'wave' at me with their polys everytime i look at them. I threw away most of my fake corals. The reason why i switch is because someone here mention that having real corals would be consider reefing. Reefing-No point & meaning having 'fakes' one. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Oops, Bro Evolitionz, sorry, should be 3-4 times of oyster feast per week. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

But if u wish to continue with your decision, u can go ahead but don't come back here & ask why your corals color funny. U has been warned here. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

My advise is don't ever use those LED with only blue & cool white. They cannot make it as they cannot cover full spectrum & the coraks color cannot come out to the max unless u re ready to add in 2 more of T5 to accomplish the task. Cheaper but if u regret later, end up spending more & also the monthly electricity bill running 2 LEDs & T5. If budget is a problem, at least get a maxspect razor 16k. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Try marine life. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Agree. Mg very easy to maintain. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

That is why Mg is one of the big 3, as important as the other 2 big, Ca & KH. Without enough Mg, u will be wondering why the Ca so low, dose in Ca like crazy also no use. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Yes, fresh water dip or dip all the zoas in coralRX or ultra pest control will help. Be careful of fresh water dipping/ rinsing. Don't exceed 5mins. More sensitive zoas should be shorter & be careful of paly toxic. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Target feeding will confirm getting the food into them. But normally boardcast feed using a strong enough wavemaker is enough. Lights will be important to them too. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Just started using this salt. It's KH is quite high, i have to reduce my part B dosage. For Ca, a bit lower. Btw, i am comparing this to D&D. But both parameters better than TM. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

I would recommend orphek aklantic. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

So long as copperband or filefish are well fed, they won't bother aiptasia. But i think copperband needs to be trained. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2