brojj

Bro, what is the parameter for TM salt? Wanted to try out but dun know what is the Ca, dKH and Mg level for this salt. Pls advise. Thks. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

There is a discussion on this ATS under general reefkeeping. U will be able to know more from there, it is very detailed. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

NP. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

ATS = Algae Turf Scrubber or algae scrubber.

My reading for NO3 is maintaining between 0 to 0.25 currently (biopellets helps to pull down NO3 from 50 over 2 months time) & PO4 @ 0.04, both using D&D test kit. I run my biopellets using JNS Alpha 2 biopellet reactor, which comes with the pump. Rowa inside Two Little Fish 150 FR using Tunze mini universal pump, 300L per hour. Yes, you will have to start with small amount first & slowly add in till the required amount with biopellets. Starting with too much & too fast will cause bacteria bloom, causing cloudy water issue. Output from biopellet reactor have to be positioned near intake of skimmer. For my case (380L volume, tank & sump) i started with 100ml, slowly topping up to 800ml over 2 months when tank is stable & did not display cloudy issue. Now, I just need to top up when the level of the biopellets drop, indicating it is time to replenish. Take note that i myself experience cloudy water issue too, even when adding in slowly, for around 1 day. Imagine the situation would be worse if I did not do it slowly. Anyway, whatever we do, we have to do it slowly, to prevent 'shock' to the inhabitants inside the tank, unless emergency cases. For the equipment, either biopellet reactor or FR, you have to decide which brands suits your needs, as long as they are effective.

I am using biopellets in a biopellet reactor & rowaphos in another seperate FR. No issue at all. They actually work hand in hand. Biopellet by itself is not able to cope the high amount of PO4 produced by fish food due to feeding. They actually recommend to use a PO4 remover media such as rowaphos. When NO3 concentration drops to a low level (by biopellets), PO4 will follow suit, prolonging the effective lifespan of rowaphos. Still, rowaphos is still required at this stage to continue performing the role of removing PO4 only produced from fish food instead of also removing large amount of PO4 already present in the water during the earlier stage. Just my 5 cents worth.

Yes, ATS works. Reduced my NO3 to 0.68. Downside it consumes a lot of Ca. Dosing 80ml of Part A daily with additional separate 1 cup of Ca solution weekly, maintaining Ca at 380 and cleaning the ATS every 5 days. After switch to biopellets, my Part A reduced to 60ml daily, maintaining Ca @ 460. NO3 @ 0 to 0.25. Biopellets add a bit every monthly, but biopellets cost $100 for 1L. Both works. Cost and maintaining them are the 2 main factors here. Up to individual, what they are comfortable with. Water changes also works but for me, very tedious, unless yours is nano tank. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

The consumption rate depends on how many SPS and LPS u hve. It varies from tank to tank. To find out the rate for yours, u must conduct test for Ca & dKh daily. From there, u can gauge roughly. Using Part A & Part B is one of the most common method to maintain Ca, Mg, Strontium, boron and dKh. I am using aquapharm. Another method is using balling salt which i have not tried before. Read instruction carefully before dosing any additives. Meanwhile, u need to raise your dKh slowly, 0.5 to 1 every 24hrs, using bicarbonate salt. Keep your Ca in check at the same time dKh should maintain around 8.8 to 10 and Ca 380 to 450 after everything settles down. Good luck. 6.1 is dangerous. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Pls add in the amount slowly till it is enough by conducting water test for NO3 & running a good skimmer. My tank volume is 380L. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

There is no need to change out the biopellets. The longer u run them, the more effective. U only need to add in new ones when u notice drop in the amount. IMO, i prefer to use a FR designed for biopellets. Using 800ml of biopellets currently with JNS alpha 2. NO3 @ 0 to 0.25. There are other good brands of FR out there. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

0 does bot mean it is really 0. Get another brand of test kit to check, one that can test lower range. D&D or hana checker. U will be surprised by the reading. Had that happen to me too, last time. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

It is easy to enter, by taxi, but difficult to exit. Speaking from personnal experience. That time to pasir farmway 2. First time and the last. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Use distilled water. Mineral water still contains minerals. Distilled water don't. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

And high grade zoas too. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Yah. Pls add in the biopellets slowly and ensure that your FR outlet is near the protein skimmer intake. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Channel 1 - Part A, channel 2 - Part B, channel 3 - Trace element. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Let me join in the party. Jurong West.

Tanks bro. If that day ever come, will swop up all your beautiful collection slowly, like what i am doing to your zoas now. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

It is beautiful. Hope one day I would be able to keep such nice SPS like that.

No problem keeping this. I had one that lives for 2 years plus and eats a lot till it becomes very fat, before an accident that almost whip out my whole tank. Expensive 'cos i got it from PS. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Hope to see you back to the hobby in the near future when u have more time Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk.

Bro, the corals that i have got from u are now stable and doing very well. Great and beautiful. And thks for all the good and kind advices. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk.

Good for you. My mantis shrimp still happily inside my tank. Can't find where it is hiding. But so far, these past 3 mths, no fishes missing. And, this mantis shrimp likes to snatch pellets & Henry's food from my fishes. It would suddenly dashes out from it's hiding place, snatch the food & in lighting speed, disappear into the shadows. Pellets eating ninja mantis shrimp? The world of marine life is so funny, strange, beautiful & wonderful sometimes. That's why I love reefing.

I have an ich outbreak last year, around 7 mths ago, due to purchase of an infected fish. Some 6 fishes caught these disease one by one. Lost my fav Powder brown tang & 2 other fishes. I tried Cu method on some fishes in another tank but it does not work well for me. Last & desperate method, I pour Melafix into my reef tank, at the recommended dosage, with my UV running (with the UV light replaced). I did not expect to see any postive result BUT amazing, Melafix works. My other infected fishes recover and my corals stays intact. I don't know how to explain these & melafix does not indicates it can cures ICH. Anybody can explain why? Now, I always keep one full bottle of melafix on standby. This is my personnel experience. And yah, my corals & fishes still living happily for another 2 months till my 'stressed' sea apple almost wiped out my whole tank. Since then, I have moved onwards. Sea apple was bought when I just started out 4 years ago & have no idea it is so dangerous.

It could take some time for the clownfishes to get used to the anemones before they will 'housed' in it unless the clownfish is from the wild, then it may be faster. Mine takes around 3 to 4 weeks before they settled in. Latter, i introduce a red ocellaris & the smaller misbar got chased out & round the tank by the red ocellaris (bully) at least for a week. The bigger misbar (black ocellaris) settled in another anemone nearby. Now, my two anemones are gone & the 3 of them live happily together ever after. So, sometimes, no anemone is better. No territory aggression. And clownfish does not need an anemone to survive. It depends on what one really wants. And I choose peace.