brojj

Noted. Thks. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Yes. Blue does 'pop' out some colors. White does not. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Currently running both channel @ 70%. Err.... Very whiteish color, like the noon sunlight during no clouds, super warm weather. LMy setup from 2pm to 4pm, both channel increase from A 0, B 1 to both 70. From 4pm to 10pm stays at 70. From 10pm to midnite, A70 - 0, B70 - 1. B will stays at 1 till 2pm. Intend to increase some more for the 70%. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Yes. They re powerful compared to G2. Bleach some of my SPS when i started using them, after a week. Should have heed the advice from the other forum. Immediately tuned down to 60% for both channel. Now slowly increase the intensity. Currently 70%, over a month. My SPS also starts to recover. Like to find out how many of u here bros & Sis not using full power and intend to stay that way. Example: stop at 80%, 90% or 95%. Thanks in advance. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

I am using the 10K version but this thread states 16K. Basically the same. Only different is the light very whiteish due to 2 more cool daylight LED. 16K 2 more blues. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Not really. It should be problematic if another damsel or clownfish is being added to the system. However some damsel will be more forgiving. Don't let one damsel roam the whole tank for too long as it will take the whole tank as it's terriority. Adding another fish that does not belongs to the damsel or clownfish family should not have any problem at all unless the newcomer go disturb it. I have one very old damsel wuth me for 5 years now, since day 1. To date, i have added 3 clowns, 4 more damsels, purple tang, anthias, shallowtail angel, cardinal fish, all without casualty. Sure once in a while there is bound to be chasing but after one week, they dun bother each other. But blue devil is really too aggressive. Take care if u have this babe. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Bro, finally release the frags for sale. Should be those i have saw that time. All very beautiful. Upz for your sale. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Does not look good. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

I had read this meter review somewhere & it is claimed to be more accurate than 715. However, u will need to convert to ppm as it measure in ppb & in phorspous. The formula is multiple by 3.066 then divide by 1000, u will get Phosphate value in ppm. It is precisely this, measured on ppb that the errors, compared to + or - 0.04ppm (on 715) is minimum. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

So far so good. Also bring juz nice. After that go down to ATM opp his hse & press $ to go back home. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Bro, your zoas sell like hot cakes. Hmm.... Wondering how much extra vitamin M i hve to bring with me this sat.... Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

To clean more thoroughly. Some calcium deposit bond some part of the equipment together, unable to open cover to clean. It could build up inside moving/ rotating parts also, causing failure or efficiency to drop over time. Some juz dun like & wanted to clean very cleaned. Some re sharp & injure u. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Yes, u can start to overdose but still same rule, slowly, 50-100ml per week. U can run Phosguard in a separated, different FR, separated from biopellets. Don't mix the 2 of them together. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Bro deadmanz, monitor for another 4 days, if no cloudly water, then add another 50 to 100ml. Then monitor for another week. No cloudy water, repeat again till u reach the required amount. Recommended dose by the manufacturor (NP) will be around 50-100ml every 100L if i did not remember wrongly. 250 -350ml should be ok. I am more kiasu. 700ml for my 380L, because of my 16 fishes, SPS, LPS, zoas corals & feeding 3 times per day, coral food every other day, in my 3ft. High bioload. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Bio pellets basically works the same. There are currently 3 more popular brands being used here. NP biopellets, TLF( Two Little Fishes) & D&D. For biopelkets reactor, there are FR35, Reef octupus & JNS. Pardon me if there is any spelling mistake. Use google to read their reviews & choose one suitable for your setup. Btw, u will still need PO4 removal media to reduce PO4 as PO4 are being introduce faster than what the biopellets can handle, thro' food and fish waste. Biopellets primary role is to reduce NO3 & PO4 will fall as well because of the relationship they shared. But even then, manufacturers of biopellets still advise to use a indepedent PO4 removal media. D&D website got more info. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Sorri to hijack this thread. Juz to share my experience & my knowledge with those that are going to use biopellets. Introduction time just add 50-100ml enough. For smaller tank, 50ml should be ok. Wait for a week, during this one week, cloudy water will form. This is due to bacteria bloom as bacteria had already colonize the biopellets. Excess ones will be swimming in the water. The more u add intially, the worst it will be, bacteria need O2 to survive too. More bacteria will reduce O2 a lot. If we add a bit only, the situation will not be so bad. Pump in air if u feel uncomfortable or if livestock struggle to breath. Skimmer must keep on running. Clean it immediately once full & immediately on back. Skimmer provides another source of dissolved O2. The cloudiness will go away, at the most a few days. And, the bacteria poses no harm at all only danger is they reduce O2. Pump in air. U can off the air pump after everything normalised & resume adding the pellets slowly, per week 100ml, till your required amt. At this time, when the bacteria bloom stops, the bacteria colony are stable in the pellets and will adjusted accordingly to your bioload, it is now ok to 'overdose' a bit more for the pellets. Why overdose? U never know when you will need more bacteria in your pellets to handle extra eg: fish died somewhere and u cannot find it's body. U can contiune voka dosing, for me biofuel. This two has been done by fellow reefers & it is effective. Some might cause adverse effect, i had come across discussion here regarding some additives they used & have some issue. (Don't want to mention names, look out for this topic). Do not replace the pellets, only add in to replace the amt that have been eaten up by the bacteria. Also ensure all pellets are tumbling to avoid dead legs which cause H2S formation, which is fatal and will kills/ wipe out the whole tank. This can be resolved by putting in more flow into the FR. For smaller tank, the amt be be lower, maybe half of what i stated. Good luck. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Thank you Bro gymbvolka for updating us on your status, sharing with us on your experience & what you have read/ learn. It is good to know that you are back on the right track. Biopellets actually works but why are there failures is because some steps are not being followed closely. Hope those who have fail once, try to recall what had gone wrong & take up the challange to introduce biopellets again but this time, be slow & careful and of course, don't forget the air pump, to pump in air when water goes cloudy & follow the procedure closely. I believe there are reefers here who will be willing to guide & share their suceess in using biopellets here.

The purpose of WC is to reduce the amount of bacteria present in the water at this point of time.

If u re using 500ml of biopellets at this point of time, i would suggest to remove 300ml of them, conduct water change, pump in air using air pump, air tubing to the display tank. U re having super bacteria bloom. Too much bacteria will reduce oxygen level in your tank and harm your livestock. It is ok if u dun have the air pump now. Get them tomorrow or now if you can. Monitor closely, if the fishes having difficult to breath, stop the biopellets FR. Too much biopellets used during this stage. Yours may take few days or longer to clear. Need to monitor. U can stop the air pump once the bloom subsided. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

How much biopellets is in currently in your FR? What FR are u using? And what is the volume of your tank, what livestock is inside? Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

My clownfish host at hammer corals. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Fluidized reactor. Normally used for holding chemical media, eg: rowaphos, carbon...etc. And water from the tank is pump into this reactor and then thro' the chemical media and then out back to the tank. Now can be used to hold cheato. Really never thought of that. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Chaeto in FR. Idea. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Use the mirror method if they fight. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

SPS will definitely requires low nutrient water as they re more sensitive. Some corals example, like xenia, sponges will require some nutrients as they feed directly from the water column. However, there are also some rare reports of xenia surviving in low nutrient water too. However, all corals need correct parameters to survive. Correct level of Ca, mg, dKh, pH, temperature, salinity. All these info are easily available on the net. As to which corals requires low or some nutrients, it really will depends on the corals types & the water conditions it was harvested/ collected from previously, as they are already used to the amount of nutrients available. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2