dragon1188

Careful bro. U go bare bottom in Singapore, u will be fined for indecent exposure.

Thanks to Blenny, I had a ton of Chaeto in my refugium now. Also like to thank arcanehacker for his offer. After a week, the Chaeto is doing well. I just removed my Rowa. Will monitor for a month to see if my phosphate will raise. I'll update this post in a month time.

Forgot to mention another VERY important point. Do not return any fish (or at least ich prone fishes) back to main tank for at least 21 days. This is to let any free swimming ICH protozoa to starve to death without a suitable host. Another helpful point is that during copper treatment, the white spots will drop onto the quarantine tank bare floor after certain days. Its best to suction off these white spots regularly so that they dont have a chance to split and multiply into free swimming protozoa. Day by day the white spot will slowly reduce. Remember that if you change certain portion of quarantine tank water with new salt water, you must measure the exact amount replaced and add back exact amount of copper solution to maintain the correct concentration of copper dose. Good Luck!

It is always worth to quarantine new fishes. If fish has white spot, the only effective way I know is to catch the affected fishes out (very difficult task with LR but best done midnight .. less stressful for sleepy fish but stressful for me! ) and put them in suitably big quarantine tank with good aeration (no biological filter). Then use copper to treat. Exact amount of copper must be used. Too little, not effective. Too much, fish dies. Tough but this is the only effective way! I tried so many other methods... malachite, garlic, herbal, freshwater bath, etc... all never works. Raising temperature is the worst method..it accelerate the white spot infection even faster. My blue, purple and Naso tangs kena so many times before but had recovered each time using copper treatment. My blue tang is now 8in long and in my tank for 6yrs liao.

Thought I saw some of your posting about your algae problem and u intend to use refugum and caulerpa. Did you setup your refugum?

Hi Rocky, Oh yes i use Rowa. Very effective, but very expensive too...$75 per liter. When my ulva "crash" (they dont crash actually, they slowly thin out and disappear), i increase my Rowa. There was once I had very good growth of ulva and I dont even need Rowa and phosphate was almost nil. But then, my ulva is almost gone, need some other replacement fast else have to use lots of Rowa

Hi guys, After 3 yrs I finally managed to get my nitrate to below 5ppm by installing a plenum. However, my phosphate is bad...0.5ppm. My target is to get it below 0.1ppm. I started a refugum 6mths ago and tried many types of seaweed including ulva, c. taxifolia and another fern-looking caulerpa but all seems to die-off after 2-3mths. Looking thru this forum, looks like the recommended seaweed to use is Chaetomorpha. Can anyone spare me some Chaetomorpha to start off? Thank you in advance!

Whole set of lights been used for 1year 2mths. Just changed 1xactnic and 1x10K and used for 4mths before whole light set was decommissioned and put in store room for last 3mths. Will recommend buyer to change all lights to be safe.

Yes....another photo...

there goes nothing..

Here is one picture...hope I attached it correctly...

Opps...equipment can be collected at Punggol (weekend or after 7pm weekday) or Toa Payoh (on weekdays office hours)

I have one piece of 4 feet slim aluminium pendant light for sale. It comes with 4X36Watt PL tubes and electronic ballast. Has two ON/OFF switch. Importantly, the whole casing is earthed and use a 3pin plug. Very safe! Very nice looking and slim...look very much like the JBL. Make entirely of aluminium, so it won't rust...perfect for marine tank. Used for slightly more than 1 year. Condition is 9/10. Looking at $80. (new cost $220). I also have 50 bioballs (dark blue color) and 40kg of C1 sand to give way for the prospective buyer. (if he/she is interested) Email me at dragon2909@yahoo.com Cheers!

Hi all, Just to share my 2 years of experience with white spots...my tank has been w spot free for more than a year. Most method (UV, Marine Cure, garlic,etc) works sometimes and sometimes they don't! But one method sure work....copper. How? You need 2 extra tank (small 20-50L will do). First, isolate fish into tank 1 and put copper solution slightly less than what is prescript into tank 1. Try to ensure that water parameter like Ph and temperature is close to main tank. After 2-3 days, you will see the white spots dropped off and died on bottom of tank. Very effective! However, Beware: some fish (like butterfly, powder tang) are too sensitive to copper and you may have to reduce the dosage or lessen the treatment period. Water need to be changed every few days as there is no effective filtration method for water with copper medication. After that, re-locate fish to tank 2. Again try to ensure water parameters as close as possible. Now that there is no more fish/host in main tank, white spot will die off in the main tank within 4-8 weeks. Applying UV in main tank during this period will be good. Warning: Never put copper in main tank. Whatever equipment used (I use a air pump and air diffuser only for a 20L tank) in tank 1 should never be used in main tank or tank 2. Good luck!

HTG, Are u using a cannister with coral chips as media? Give some details on your tank setup. Could be tank setup or the things you put inside.

Looks like this Berlin is a good skimmer. Can I buy it in any of of our local store? And does it comes with the powerhead?

Also rotating outlet not very smooth, prone to jamming.

Careful, found that my Eden 228 ($46) is generating quite a lot of heat. Raises temperature in my 200L tank by 1 degree.

Spider ONe, You r right. The cannister is fine. Its the substrate. Using the canister for circulation is perfectly fine..even better than submerged PH, as cannister don't put that much heat into the tank. But once you use coral chip or other biological filter inside the cannister, it became a NO3 factory via aerobic process. LR is the one that reduces NO3 but without good circulation by PH or cannister as PH, they won't be effective. Even DSB won't work effectively without good circulation. Read an article some time back that effectiveness of DSB depends on nutrient exchange between DSB and water body. Assuming DSB has achieved anaerobic condition, effectiveness is dependend on void space between grain (ie. grain size) and movement of water (ie. circulation). In short, good circulation and surface agitation offers great benefits to the marine tank. my 2 cents,

I used to put rings and coral chips in my 2026 2 years ago. Now I have junk all substrate. The 2026 is just a powerhead doing water circulation. Don't use cannister for marine (whether FOWR or reef)...it will just convert all waste to nitrate, which is the hardest thing to get rid off. My NO3 level used to be 70-90ppm using cannister. Now I have converted to 25kg live rock and 3 power head on my 3' tank. NO3 level is now less than 15ppm....also less changing of water now (3-4mth once). As for your idea of 3-4" of sand inside cannister...think the surface area is just too small!