VelvetAirwaves

Hi all, As above, 1 X Bubble Magus Nac QQ Condition 8-9/10 . ~ $50 1 X Eheim Compact 1000 Pump , Condition 7-8/10 . ~ $40 1 X Shiruba HOB Filter 720l/h, Condition 9/10 ~ $20 All items have been tested and are working like a champ. Im open to negotiations, just looking to clear everything. PM me Cheers!

The ones you circled look like hitch hikers, look totally different from the surrounding zoas. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

What species is that ray? Sent from my GT-N8020 using Tapatalk

Guys give chance abit, hes new, and following the supposed professional "fish shop" is what we would all have done if we were getting into something new.

Bro, by the way, could you share with us what equiptment you are using? And also, the water parameters. You didnt mention at the start, it would be good to test the water and let us know so we can pinpoint any mistakes that you might potentially make.

Hey bro, I want to tell you that you are on the right track, let the prawn fully decay and let your water clear up on its own. Try not to turn on the lights as the spike in nutrients will spark off an algal bloom if the lights are on. Right now just leave your return pump running to get the water flowing. It looks like your tank is at its peak of the cycle, it should clear up from here on out. Btw, from the picture it looks like you have some corals, but they look artificial, or am I seeing things?

Nice! Softies and lps tank. Looking hot bro!

Damn the lipropoma aberrans is hawt!

LOL with a cup of teh tarik

Red sea prizms also got some quite good reviews. Got alot of options, just need to look around.

I think for bigger tank its okay to follow the teaspoon method, smaller tank abit difficult to measure 1.8 teaspoons. Imo, measuring spoon is the easiest.

I dont think the evaporation rate would differ that much from chiller, but do update, it should be interesting.

Just wondering, why would the water evaporate faster? In my experience use fan vs aircon chill, the evap rate a lot less for air condition. But vs chiller is a different story.

And your cup coral looks like it going to cmi soon. It seems that its getting too much light. Maybe you can take a better picture?

I suggest moving your monti higher up to an area with more flow. It seems like your plate is on a piece of rock, I would suggest placing it on the sand bed with moderate to low lighting.

Well, my tank is fairly new, I only have a polyp of a mushroom to test. So not much to test with yet. Before the decomm however, the corals seemed to colour up better in the colder temp. Ideally I would like it to remain at 25, it was the temp where I had most success in terms of growth and colouration.

My tank is in my bedroom, the ambient temp at night is roughly 23 deg, in the day I use a fan to cool to about 25-26 deg.

Imo, it depends on what the temperature is in your room at night. If the fluctuation is too big then might want to invest in a heater to control the temperature at night.

This is not mine, but one of the most mind blowing palys ive seen. And this too

At the end of the day, its not worth the hassle to keep buying. I made that mistake once, and I am damn happy I bought my di unit. But you can try la, nobody stopping you hahaha

Seems like you were right bro, after a few weeks, my no3 is now 0ppm ^^

YOUR CATS ARE SO CUTE.

No leh, everything still happy and swimming around

Hi there, I would agree with you that that might be the cause. Regarding whether I did test for ammonia and nitrite, yes I did ,also for n03 at the end of the cycle. All tested 0 before I added life stock. I have a hunch my rocks are the ones giving me the problems.

Hi there, im using api test kits, been using them simce year 0. I changed 50% each time during this period.