garyjg

I bought my tank from fish city located at 65 sungei tengah road, Mr. Lee Hing Sing. I paid 2,200 for a 30x30x54" tank including stand, hood, sump installed with all the piping.

Same for me... after a rowa change I used filter floss and try to caught fine particulars, didn't work all that well. now my sumps clean again thanks to the socks.

Hi FuEl, the best application that I found for filter socks is after the FR... it's amazing how much rowa finds it's way into our tanks...

bSi IC-Gel, I've done bulk orders... works very good and cheaper that others, look under bulk orders for more details.

Hi all, This isn't really a DIY project but more of a cheat repair or saving a ton of cash...) I have two icecap ballast, one drive my white light and the other drives the actinic's, unfortunate for me one died... I checked out icecap USA and found it's about USD60.00 for the repair and another USD200.00 for shipping both ways, so I figured "nothing ventured nothing lost" and open the ballast, I found the varistor smoked. I made my way to SimLim towers and bought a varistor and had it re-soldered in for a whopping SGD5.00 Now I have lights again and cost nothing compared to either having it repaired or buy a new one.

wow, I saw the same thing 3+ years ago...I had downloaded the same pic's and instructions from the guy who first designed it. I just can't remember where I saw it but I think it was on reefcentral forum under DIY, I saw going to make it for my Bro in-law but ever got around to it...

you can go across the street from Dama, there's a row of shops, one sell all types of plastic screws.

Bro Cross, your chillers still under warranty? were did you buy it from if you don't mind me asking. Thanks

Hi Bro, If you need to measure the chlorine you'll have to go to a pool shops, they'll sell a chlorine test kit... The main difference between a diamond system and a ro/di system to the membrane... both remove chlorines and both have a sediment filer but the TDS reading from a diamond filter is the same as your tap water or sometime higher. when you bought your diamond filter they tested the water before the filter and than after the filter to show you that it takes out the chlorine... all carbon blocks remove chlorine, they'll never use a TDS meter and show you the results. my numbers 92202295

Hi Guys, I've been keeping my eyes on this topic, the cost of a ro/di unit is only about SGD80 more than a DI filter alone.

Hi, CR are a bit intimidating… If you still figure it out I’d be glad to help.

Bro, I a simple word if you're seeing algae in your tank than your tanks in and unbalanced state... you said your not checking your PO4...? check it! Don't think because your using a product it's working.

Coral Farm sells water by the bag

Killerwhale, There's a couple of places, ones LCK... he'll deliver and pump the sea water into your tank, just remember it's water from the shore line in Singapore.

lcf425, TDS is Total Dissolved Solids, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_dissolved_solids you can buy a TDS meter at most any shop that sell either fresh/saltwater fish.

My brother in-law bought a water sample from his Diamond water filter, we checked the chlorine and the TDS reading... there was a small amount of chlorine still in the sample and the TDS reading was 68ppm his tap water was 80ppm.

sorry, please check out bulk orders

Hi all, I'm working with a distributer to bring in "Korallin PO4 Minus", so far I've got the price down to S$42 per 500 ml delivered. The bulk order is for a 5L container so we all need to jump in the band wagon to make this happen, and bring your own containers...) 1)?

Why would anyone buy a 3 stage Crystal Pro unit for 200. dollars? The DI last maybe 50 gallons... I have sold to fellow reefers a 5 stage ro/di unit for 280 dollars, DI can last up to a year... the only thing that needs replacing is the sediment filter that cost less than 10 dollars. And the sediment filter I bought is a 1 micron filter not a 5 micron filter, and please don't start with the water you'll waste... just think about the water going down the drain every shower you take...lol So if you weigh the differences between the two units... Both units have to have the sediment filter replaced often say every three months unless you use a ceramic sediment filter (0.5 micron) like I'm using than it can last for years. The carbon chips and carbon block last a year or better, the membrane last 3 years and the DI last up to a year or 1000 gallons of 0 TDS. Just my two cents worth...

When you talk about distilled water are you talking about boiling your water or buying boiled water. if you read the salt container it says to use RO water, the reason is RO water has a PH of 6+ well below neutral 7.0, the acidity help to break the salt down, the salts buffer is designed to work with acidic water to bring the level to 8.2-8.4 See one companies instruction: Mixing Directions: Dissolve 1/2 cup of Sea Salt Mix in one gallon of water (.29 lb per gallon). For best results, use de-chlorinated de-ionized or best if used reverse osmosis water. Briefly agitate salt solution with a small pump. Measure salinity (specific gravity) with a hydrometer. Adjust salinity (increase or decrease) to the desired level. This can be done by adding salt or water, respectively.

[V]tEc maybe right, might just be easier to replace the impeller rather than wastering time trying to glue it back together.

DUCADOS, I've built a couple f kalkwasser reactors and there not very difficult, I used a second hand skimz FM reactor for the second one, was easier than cutting the gluing acrylic. You'll need some tools like a hole saw for the pump tubing, 1/4" drill and tap for the water inlet and outlet. Here a picture that should help in your design.

You'll need to find something in the lines of weld-on, I have a couple different types but there for Acrylic only. Here's the link. http://www.ipscorp.com/

Really? saltwater shouldn't be as bad as coffee at super high temperatures. how the PH of your water, below 7.0...lol just kidding. B)