MadScientist

looking for Deltec MCE600 Skimmer Turbo

where did you get the mangrove from?

kaykay, you have spare ATS trays?

From what I can see, dimming led reduces brightness per watt, not very energy conservative, haha

Most “white” LEDs are actually blue LEDs with a phosphor coating that generates warm or cool white light. Their light does not shift to red when dimmed; some may actually appear bluer with dimming. White light can also be made by mixing red, green, and blue (RGB) LEDs, allowing a full range of color mixing and color temperature adjustment. Overall LED luminaire efficacy decreases with dimming due to reduced driver efficiency at low dimming levels From US DOE: http://cool.conservation-us.org/byorg/us-doe/dimming_leds.pdf Most power LEDs experience a slight brightening over the first few hundreds to thousands of hours of use. Afterwords, they very slowly begin to dim. LED lifespan (i.e. the 50,000 hour lifespan rating) is not about how long before the LED does not light up, it's about how long before the LED dims to some percentage of initial output. Most players rate their LED lifespan to 70% of initial output. So that means that at 50,000 hours, the LED should still output around 70% of initial output. The LED slowly dims over that 50,000 hours from 100% down to 70%. This lifespan rating is usually given certian conditions that the LED maker specifies, in terms of current and junction temperature. Operating beyond the conditions given will cause the lifespan to decrease. So for instance, a (hypothetical) manufacturer specifies 50,000 hours to 70% brightness, at 350mA, with Tj <= 120C. If your heatsinking allows Tj to exceed 120C, then the lifespan will decrease, and output will dim faster. Likewise, if you run at greater than 350mA, lifespan will also decrease. This means that you either reach 70% sooner, or at 50,000 hours output has degraded to less than 70% From Candlepowerforums ( forum full of led gurus): http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?189019-Do-LEDS-(SSC-Rebel-Cree)-get-brighter-or-dimmer-after-some-time-of-use Drivers with dimming capability can dim the LED light output over the full range from 100% to 0%. Dimming drivers can dim LEDs by reduction in the forward current, pulse width modulation (PWM) via digital control, or more sophisticated methods. Most dimming drivers operate using the PWM method. With this method, the frequency could range from a hundred modulations per second to as high as hundreds of thousands of modulations per second, so that the LED appears to be continuously lighted without flicker. A benefit of the PWM method is that it enables dimming with minimal color shift in the LED output. According to the Lighting Research Center, dimming causes LEDs to experience a similar shift in spectral power distribution as an incandescent lamp. However, if colored LEDs in an array are used to produce white light, the amount of shift, particularly with red and yellow LEDs, may produce an undesirable effect on the white light that is produced by the system. Dimming does not result in a loss of efficiency. During dimming, the LEDs are still operated at the same voltage and current as during full light output. In addition, lamp life is not affected by dimming, as is sometimes the case with frequently dimmed fluorescent lighting. Rather, dimming LEDs may lengthen the useful life of LEDs, because dimming can reduce operating temperatures inside the light source. From LED Magazine: http://ledsmagazine.com/features/1/12/6

Shall watch out for the results

Nice diy

Trying to procure list: Tunze Comline DOC skimmer 9004 or 9006 Tunze Comline mangrove box 3178 Votech mp10 Teco TR 5, TR10, Arctica nano or mini 2x1x1ft crystal glass (w oro w/o ios) braceless tank

Heat escapes upwards. Unless you are placing the cooling fins flushed or out of the bottom hole, i would suggest using the top vent with fan as ventilation. You can always test the flow with dry ice mixed with warm water or if you smoke, lighted cigarette. I would not advise the latter as it leaves chemical residues

What tunze stuff?

It all depends on where she's placing the tank and what's she's keeping. The chiller may or may not be sufficient, given the tank size, it will most probably be running almost continuously

Finally! After years of husbanding tanks of others, it's time to have my personal tank! This time round, this tank will be slightly different from all my other tanks in which this will not just be a test tank, this will be a display tank too! Hopefully, Right now, I am currently running a 1 ft freshwater tank with a few fishes. After many months of pondering and some form of invisible planning, it will be scrapped off and be converted into a full fledged marine tank. Even after the long periods of pondering (making my brain extremely tender), I am still uncertain as to keep the 1 ft or upgrade to a 2 ft. Oh well, equipment wise, it doesn't really matter as I benchmark-ed all my equipment to be able to handle at least 2-3ft, mostly geared towards 3ft and more though. A tank fit for a mad scientist must at least be able to withstand some doomsday catastrophes such as having some moron throwing a piece of steak to feed a piston shrimp, etc. Overspec-ing is part and parcel for the planning of this tank. Managed to procure some items for my 1 or 2ft tank: Available: Eheim ecco 2233 (impeller-less; took it out to build a DIY fan for stuffy, warm nights) Eheim classic 2211 (impeller-less; took it out to build a DIY fan for stuffy, warm nights) Eheim Pro 2 2024 (currently disengaged) Eheim Pro 2 2026 (currently disengaged) Eheim Pro 3 (currently disengaged) Eheim Universal 1250 (currently driving my impeller-less canisters) Eden 501 - currently my prefilter (impeller-less; took it out to build a DIY fan for stuffy, warm nights) Eden 501 (currently disengaged) Some cheap LEDs running around, gonna combine them all for ATF and my macroalgae/chaeto farm Incoming: HnS 110-F1000 Sulphur Reactor Eheim Compact 1000 E.Shine 4G-1 24X3W LED with Dimmer- CREE Wishlist: Coming soon, I guess it will be over 1TB in size,

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Any budget to constrain our temptations to recommend you the most expensive beast?

I prefer universal than compact. Non submerged function reduced heat to the water, and the energy consumption is less than compact

Aquamarin should have some

algae actually prefers warm light to cool light. You can find those greenish brownish algae near the coast and surface in the wild, rarely you find them deep.

agree, live rocks make your tank alive!

What's the brand and model of your pump? Seems like your tank is starting to cycle

For standard reef application, which 1 should I choose?

And hanna is selling 2 testers when we can just calculate that out? Hmm

Isn't phosphorus a form of phosphate?

well, there's cases of anemone moving in a very well maintained, balanced tank, some even after a long time of no change. it really depends on the anemone's characters I guess

for reef keeping, which one should I test for?