MadScientist

Not really, feed phytoplankton to whole tank works

Got robbed, haha. Friend took both. Currently, got tem and compressor chiller and fan. All not in use. Temperature now hovering around 30-32, towards 31-32. Have been feeding aquapharm 5-in-1 coral food (8 drops), reef nutrition oyster feast (2 drops), cyclop-eeze fried dried (1 5ml spoonful) and new life spectrum small fish formula (1 5ml spoonful) daily for this few days since last nitrate measurement. No feeding of tank tonight as new livestock added and readjusted salinity to 1.025 (refer to previous posts for measurement details). Today's nitrate is 0.5ppm. Not bad, my efforts to raise nitrate is working.

is mine fine?

Hopefully the clam can recover with the new lighting.

Anyone knows where to get DT live phytoplankton?

haha, should I grab everything from you too? I wanted to switch to acrylic tank to see if the reduction in heat loss is significant from glass.

bro, fast, haha. are you going to use chiller for this tank?

mind posting photos here?

with lens madscientist 130

with lens madscientist 122

nitrate level: 0.2ppm (side wall view of reaction chamber, 2/10ppm) (Salifert Nitrate Profi Test; Batch: Unknown; Expiry 11-2014). It is actually in between 0 and 2, hence, I rounded it up. Temperature is 32 degree clecius (GEX mini alcohol thermometer). Currently dosing 2 drops of 5% acetic acid with critic acid (vinegar) daily. 21 days since water change. The clam really is a powerful and compact nitrate filter.

Haha, need to learn how to jump around in case they escape?

White treefrog is legal in singapore

yup, possible. daily changes are usually performed by some research facilities, public aquariums, lfs and farms. I did performed daily 50, 75 and 100% water change daily and 2 times a day before on numerous tanks without any ill benefit on the livestock or the parameters. salinity and temperature must match the tank. let's say you perform 10% water change weekly for 1 month, you have 10ppm of nitrate in your tank. At the end of the month, the nitrate level will be 6.561ppm. That's assuming that tank does not produce any more nitrate. If we assume tank produces 2.5ppm a week, end of the month, it will be at 14.299ppm. Daily 50% water change, assuming 2.5ppm weekly nitrate production, at the end of the month, it will be approximately at 0.020ppm. even for large tank, I personally recommend a daily 50% water change, especially so for pico tanks where the parameters get haywire rapidly. The concept of 10% weekly stemmed from the low cost and the assumption of gradual parametric change would be beneficial to livestock. If you think about it, which is more gradual and beneficial to livestock, a gradually climbing nitrate level or a nitrate level that's constantly at around 0.020ppm? This not just applies for toxins buildup, it is also applicable to depleting elements and compounds.

up

up

haha, already did. my tank got raided not long ago.

May I ask what is the temperature of your tank and if you are using any form of cooling (fan, air conditioner, etc) for your tank?

Since there's no one around that can verify their health and I do not know of any non-destructive methods/test kits that can quantify their health, I am basing on their reaction to light and stimuli (sudden, partial blockage of light and a light physical touch) to determine their health. The clam is reactive to blockage of light and touch. The mushroom is reactive to touch. Temperature is now ranging from 30-32 degree celcius. It is weird that there is no sign of bleaching (zooxanthellae expulsion) from the high temperatures. The specimens were accidentally acclimatized in an unconventional technique. They were brought from shop to tank within 15 minutes using a cabby. Tank at the shop was cooled using air conditioner chilled air (temperature possibly 26-28). They were introduced to the new tank with a temperature of 25.5 degree celcius. After approximately 8 hours, chiller pushed the temperature down to 18 degree celcius due to a malfunctioned temperature probe. Chiller was restarted and it tripped immediately. Chiller was then decommissioned, allowing tank's temperature to gradually increase to room temperature (29 degree celcius) and above (30-32 degree celcius). It may seem that high temperatures may not always induce bleaching. With regards to the specimens, this may due to their adaptability or the unconventional acclimatization. As the global temperatures are rising, it may be of interest to determine the causation of the adaptation. Health of specimens will continually be monitored and temperature will be reduced back to 25-28 should they show any adverse reactions to prolonged exposure to high temperatures (bleaching, etc).

bro, I thought I saw tanks as small as mine when I went over?

for diatoms, you may need to check for silcates, nitrate. Some tap water may contain higher amounts of silicates. Switch to distilled or ro/di water for water top ups and water used for mixing salt mixes. As long as the diatoms are not growing on corals, they are rather fine in my opinion. Export the diatoms by scraping them just before a water change. Some corals consume diatoms as well. Skimates are just the output from the skimmer (those brown, stinky stuff) It is true that for picos, there may not be a need to measure any parameters except for salinity and temperature (for daily massive water change). I do recommend regular large water changes for pico tanks. Personally, I have not changed my water for 20 days. I am currently dosing all sorts of stuff to keep up with the depletion of all sorts of stuff in the water. I am dosing most stuff with 1-2 drops, even with the smallest size of products that I can get hold of, they can last me for years. Of course, my pico tank is not your usual tank, and so am I, if you realise,

Anyone knows where can I purchase Elos Omega Amino Acid Coral Food?

it depends. brown algae as in diatoms? is your tank newly setup? most new setup comes with the usual hosts of problems such as diatoms, cyanobacteria, etc. for my pico, I have not encountered this till date as I overdosed carbon, purigen and rowaphos. I am also producing wet skimates. I believe this is more beneficial to smaller tanks as it exports the nutrients slightly faster while reducing effects of evaporation on salinity. diatoms grow better in high phosphate, silicate and nutrient environment. please do conduct testing for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. if you need ammonia and nitrate testing but have no budget, I can loan you my kits. I cannot really comment on filter capacity as I do not know about your setup. Nutrient production is a very dynamic process and nutrient exportation (especially with skimmers) can also be dynamic. It would depend on your filtration setup, your livestock and the technique you used to introduce them (gradual stocking vs fast, massive stocking), your husbandry techniques and the feeding scheme you are using. Please do list more details in order for the bros/sis around here to help you better.

I meant when you accidentally frag your mother colony, haha. I also need small nicr zoas, =p

sun corals need to be fed regularly, if your filtration can handle the higher nutrient levels, they are quite fine. I used to have a sun in my pico until I got robbed.