clownfish_forever

Damn...sound serious. It started from 1 LR but I can see them spreading to other LRs already. In any case, I read about peppermint but they dont feed on majano. If I get butterflies, they are not reef safe... *argh* 伤脑筋 liao!

Thanks...soooo only peppermint shrimps. But hor...they actually look beautiful

Thanks, I thought Majono usually comes with fat tips. Those I have is rather thin tips.

Hi bro, Need some help to identify these 2 organisms on my live rocks. Need to know if these are pest anemones? 1st photo: the organisms seem to be spreading around my live rocks quite fast. 2nd photo: this guy been there for quite long alone...so not much of a problem now.

I have success in keeping BTA for 9 months till i decided to sell it because I want to switch the RBTA. When I found a buyer and took out the BTA then realized it was already developing the 2nd base *sigh* In any case, I was using a chiller, temperature set @ 27 deg and using MH light and weekly feed of small fish pieces. Anyway, in LFS sometimes we dont see chiller but the water is pumped or connected to a source that is chilled or air-conditioned...

Any elephant ear spotted? Nowadays I don't see them around.

Actually is good. Because I have a good laugh. No offense though. Keke

Get a CS larger than the BS. Did once before and they can co-exist

Ya, interestingly I havent noticed any clams recently...

A very neat clean setup. Hope to see more soon

Yup, dont be dishearted. There are many brothers here who can give valuable advice too but you will need to be patient...this hobby is really a journey.

Thanks bro, I am actually very near in Sengkang. I will arrange to collect them within the next few days

Hey brothers, Just want to know which LFS carries chaeto for sale? Thanks.

I was using a normal T5 but now switched to LED. I guess RO/DI water will be ideal, if not just make do with what you can. Marine Life Hobbielist http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/topic/85282-updated-lfs-directory-listing/

Coral Farm http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/forum/52-lfs-directory-listings/

If you can afford to rescape, that may help too. Trick the YT to feel that it is in a new territory as that it is no longer its territory hehe.

Hi bro, Just to share my own experience on the following items: Lighting, I used to use 2 x T5 for my zoas but that is not enough - they didnt do well. At least go for 4 tubes. Cooling, I am also using cooling fan and the temperature is always around 28.3 to 28.6 and my zoas and GSP are doing well so far. Not sure about LPS. Salt mix: I am using Redsea coral salt, looks good so far. Live rocks: I recommend from ML. Henry has really nice shaped rocks. Almost every rock has its unique shape and curve to make your scaping look interesting His rocks are nicely covered with coraline and beneficial organisms. Stocking: In general, if you have more corals, stock lesser fishes unless you have very efficient skimmers and ways to cut down on the nutrients. Because corals require occasional feeding to supplement their health.

Try checking with ML, Henry usually have good stock of cleaner crews such as sand dollars, hermit crabs, snails, etc. But better call him to check before going over.

Although Tangs will eat meaty foods along with the other fish in the aquarium, it is important that they are offered plenty of marine based seaweed and algae. This will strengthen the Blue Tang's immune system, reduce aggression and improve their overall health. You can try to get a Red Grape Kelp, my blue tangs loved them...within 1 - 2 days the kelp is botak liao, no more grapes... You can get it from CF. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=490+662&pcatid=662

Someone asked the same question in the Marine Habitat magazine so I am sharing the answer here. This is from Wayne Oxborough, Norway, Ultimate Reef. To me, it is quite chim la, maybe it makes better sense for the advanced brothers here An important fact to remember is that expensive skimmers remove exactly the same things as a cheap one (30% of total organics on a normal system are skimmable), but the differences between a good skimmer and a bad one is that the bad skimmer takes a lot longer to remove the organics, and does it less efficiently, so the overall organic count in the system remain higher. The choice of skimmer is governed by several parameters - it must fit on the system, physical size and rating are important, as are the choice of pump and type of air injection, quality of manufacture and noise. While there are numerous skimmers of dubious merit on the market, there are also a larger number of well-designed and good-priced skimmers that perform very well for most people. HOB skimmers are the more common ones available, but there are also a number of system, usually small all-in-ones available, where a kimmer is effectively mounted in the main display. If you dont have a sump this choice is easy - you get a hang-on, or you can sit one in the back corner. If you have a sump then that's usually the best place for a skimmer. Having decided on the style of skimmer, the next question to ask is how large it should be. Manufacturers offer rated tank size recommendations for their skimmers, but these vary greatly from maufacturer to manufacturer. A simple measure is to look at the total system size, and then select a skimmer that pulls 1 litre of air per hour for each litre of water. There are number of ways to generate the bubbles in a skimmer, but for the most of the higher end skimmers on the market, the chosen method is a pinwheel or a meshwheel. Venturi skimmer are less common except in smaller sizes, although in some case Beckett valves are used, which are a type of 3D multiple port venturi and are claimed to be more plankton-friendly. The venturi skimmer can have the advantage of using only a single large pump to push water and blow bubbles, but in larger size it is harder to tune, and calcium carbonate build-up on the venturi can limit air access (unless religiously maintained), which doesnt help performance. For many, the choice is between a meshwheel or a pinwheel. The meshwheel offers greater performance, but there can be a considerable maintenance overhead. Some manufacturers offer a choice betwen the tow, which is good, and some meshwheels are made from a hard plastic that takes a lot less maintenance than one made from Enkamat. Another choice is to make whether it's one pump or two. Some skimmers sit on the sump and use a single large pump to blow bubbles and move water through the body. More complex skimmers are available that us two (or more) pumps - one to move water through the body, and one (or more) to blow bubbles. This has several advantages: first of all, this is the ultimate combination to control performance, as by tweaking the water supply and adjusting a gate valve on the outlet, the water level in the body can be adjusted very consistently to give a skim that is more or less wet. With a single pump skimmer this is harder to achieve. Also, with a twin pump skimmer design, you can stand the skimmer outside the sump if this is helpful.

I think a photo will help. Not exactly an expert but it may be mesenteric filaments. http://www.masa.asn.au/masawiki/index.php/Mesenteric_Filaments I think it may probably mean something is bothering them but it may not always lead to death. Watch your parameters and temperature.

Use saltwater. Marine micro-organisms on your LR and sand is unlikely to survive if you use tap water. If they died off due to the tap water, you will have a harder time curing them. IMO rinse them with new mix salt water and put them back in tank. Let the water cycle and closely monitor the parameters. Probably don't add any livestock first. I also have similar experience when I needed to rinse and wash my LR. I did it with saltwater but even so there is bound to be some died off when cleaning. Then just let the water run and cycle and sit back patiently

Thanks. I am thinking of that too but I have a limitation due to the size of the aquarium cabinet - it is custom made to be rather low height so I cannot put in a huge skimmer. Any recommendation?