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Everyone at Sealife is a top salesman... <_

If only i'd gone with a 4 ft and endured the nagging by the 2 women... At least u got a sump Rumor; me dont have the skills to DIY myself one (even though i have a spare 2 ft tank), nor the spare money to get a ready-made one (btw how much is yrs? Can ask the LFS to make one dat comes with the pipes, pump etc?) I'm thinking u need a large area in yr sump to handle yr main tank NO3 (unless the 3" in yr main is enuff-same question again haha)???

Oh yah, forgot i had a question to ask u guys regarding DSB height; is 4" sloping towards 3" in the front enough for the bacteria to exist? I see small air bubbles in the front of the tank, esp after the first inch - does this show that the water is not flowing into this area? (making it anerobic?) I am using #1 sand currently, and though i have some more spare sand, it hurts to pile up more cause its only a 3 ft tank and there's limited real estate...

Yeah, me friend got this smaller than #1 "sand" and used it in his Cichlid tank-ended up his water was cloudy almost all the time (due to the sand being blown around in the water column continuously!) Now, he has thrown away the sand and used #1 instead

Anyone? Hahah guess all interested more in pro-in-sump PS more than normal Hang ons? Pls help poor old me who cant use any in-sump models?

Hi anyone knows wat kinda Hang on Tank PS are good for 3 ft tank? I prefer those with their own powerhead or pumps, as compared to those using airstones only...I have a Prism, but think it under-performs. Are those better ones sold in the US available here?? Brands like CPR and stuff? thanx

Hi just thought i'd confirm with u guys something i've been thinking of lately- u know those transparent or colored flexible rubber water hoses we use for our washrooms and kitchens? Are they reef safe? I smell some new ones and they reek of chemicals (like super glue gone sour), but i still have to use some for my DI filter-to-tap connection... Me scared me dosing the tank with chemicals that leak from the pipe over time...anyone knows whether if it is possible? Oh yah, forgot to mention: they seem to be better than those rigid PVC pipes, which accumulate loads of crap in them without being noticed?

Yikes!!! 400!?!?!? Are u sure u got the correct row for yr reading? U mean u used 5ml tank water + 15ml distilled water (correct me if i'm wrong, too lazy to lookit my own lousy sera kit...) and u got a deep red reading?

Issit like this?

Ooooh, wat have u bought from them? Are u referring to those hang-on refugiums they are selling? Can i convert them into partial sumps (to hold skimmer and filter stuff) I see they dont come cheap, so i have to bother u guys with these questions... Don't our LFS sell any of these?

Or where can i buy/order a ready built sump (with overflow box for main tank, and pump too) that i can just throw into action when i get it home? Guess easier to part with money than end up with sore aching hands and a failed DIY...

Man, i must say u worked real hard for yr tank and sump, IAN...Dont think i can afford so much time and effort on doing all that...so pls, any ready-made solutions for lazy and tired old me?

Wah very grateful for all yr replies....I think as long as i cant do up an overflow, i wont be touching the sump...Anyone running without sump with good results? I'll be using only DSB, abit of f-floss and chemical filtration, plus lotsa live rocks, dono if can last long... I guess u all confirmed my fears of the risky siphon method completely. Guess gotta look for a commercial overflow box instead. Anyone found one for sale? I saw one at Aquamart that looks like a refugium, something smaller than AT's hang on type-issit suitable? I have read Ian's thread btw, but seems like no solution available leh...unless he is willing to diy for us at a nominal fee??? Thanx for helping guys

Me thinking of adding sump to my 3 ft tank, as i have space below the tank and have a spare 2 ft bare tank. I dont wana spend any more extra money, so thinking of just placing some algae and filter stuff inside the 2 ft. Me thought of using a siphon down into the sump, and pump water back up into the main tank (dono if it works?) I tried using the 3 ft overflow pump but it went all weak when it had to pump the water UPwards back into the tank. Originally when it is used as the overflow pump, it is very strong (dono wat is the turnover, only got the model number N950 30W shown on the pump) Issit the pump too lousy and i have to buy another one? (if so, any recommendations?) How do i control the siphon rate into the sump? Also equally confusing is; how do i know whether the siphon equals the pump rate? I wana try but i'm very very scared of overflowing nightmares!!! This is me first attempt at sumps, so pls forgive me ehehh...

Hmm the anemone shrimp i got just decided to disappear without a trace too...only saw it once after i put him in, under a ton of rocks. Now donoo whether he dead or not either. I think yr shrimp eggs or fry got eaten by the fish in yr tank? Or maybe they hatched and died of hunger? Envy u, have shrimps with eggs; dono when mine are gona be out from the dark?!?!?!

That's an Anemone Shrimp! http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cl...&articleid=2282 Quite hard to find on sale...lucky to see this last fat one in the shrimp tank at the fish farm! hahah the uncle didnt even know he had one more left (quite hard to spot under low light). I bot one before at Sealife, but the little dude died after just a few days due to poor acclimation... I LOVE THIS SHRIMP!!!

Changed liao yesterday, but no effect to the Alk leh, still at 7... But i think the Ca went down by quite a lot, cause the previous test i did b4 water change, i couldnt even get the reading after going up to 750ppm!!! Any Alk supplements i can get? Anyone?

Tanzy me got a problem with me water too, i was too anxious to test out the reputable benefits of Kalk last month, and overdosed it over a few weeks cause i didnt get a Ca testkit (yes, silly me... ). The last straw came when i saw white spots forming on my tank glass... Now after testing it last week with a Salifert kit, it is at 750ppm!!! But my Alkalinity is only at 7dKH/2.8 meq/L (correct conversion i hope?) Wat can i do while waiting for the Ca to come down naturally? I wana dose Alkalinity supplements in the mean time, to try and get it to higher, wat brand and name of supplement shld i get? Thanx!!!

Yikes, it seems that Monkey shrimp are Polyp gluttons... From ReefCentral: "Q:Do you know anything about Monkey Shrimp? Most places refer to these predators as Saron shrimp. Here is a bit of information about them. Taxonomic Classification: Phylum Arthropoda, Subphylum Crustacea, Class Malacostraca, Order Caridea; Saron Shrimp Saron marmoratus, Other Saron species. Several species in the genus are imported and occasionally sold as aquarium pets. Probably the most abundant is Saron marmoratus, a large (up to 10 cm) shrimp mottled red and white on a greenish or gray back ground. They have a pair of exceptionally well developed clawed appendages located anteriorly on the thorax. If added to a well developed aquarium with lots of live rock, these shrimp become very reclusive and are seldom seen. They exhibit much nocturnal behavior and will be seen primarily at night. They do best at standard reef conditions of temperature and salinity. Saron species appear to be predatory on small animals, including small polyps such as zoanthids, star polyps, and perhaps small corals. They are not recommended for a reef aquarium, but will do well in a system of their own. These are large animals and need at least a 40 gallon aquarium. There should be plenty of hiding places such as caves, if these are provided the animal will actually be out and active before long. They will eat most aquarium foods, and without polyps to eat they are reasonably good scavengers. Maybe also a clam predator... From http://www.exotictropicals.com/encyclo/ree...ms/tridacna.htm "Some fish, namely wrasses, should be watched when put into a tank containing tridacna clams. The Twin Spot Wrasse (Coris aygula) and the Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius) have been known to attack and eat clams. Other predators include large crabs, some shrimp (Marble shrimp; Saron marmoratus, Buffalo shrimp; Saron sp., rarely the Cleaner shrimp, Lysmata amboinensis), and parasitic snails that are usually present on the clam when you buy it. Yikes! Even Cleaner shrimp eat clams???? Sigh too bad, such a pretty shrimp...er btw issit this one?

Yeah! More shrimp lobang!!! I think me becoming a shrimp freak too!!! Hahahahah! Me think will go to Sealife tomolo to check it out then... Anyways, here's another puzzle i've yet to figure out...One of the cleaner shrimp molted right inside the LFS plastic bag, while i was drip-acclimating it...And now, an Anemone/Glass Shrimp has done it too!!! Why so strange? Issit my water again? The only clue is dat i have too high a Calcium value (ard 500++ to 600!!! Bleh, Kalk mania before i bot my Ca testkit, heheh) Have a look, and maybe someone can come up with an answer to why?

Hey everyone...me been quite a happy dude these few days...managed to finally keep some shrimp alive; and have been going on a "shrimp shopping spree"!!! But they seem to be rather shy, and like to hang out at the back of the tank or under my corals and rocks... I've got one Boxing Shrimp who's been inside for almost 5 days, but still hides from view mostly...is there something i should do to make them comfy? Or do they need some time to adjust? I have 2 cleaners, 1 blood shr and 1 CBS...issit too much for a 3 ft? Thanx!!!

Eh, Devil, u changed yr Avatar? Hahah couldnt recognise yr nick for a moment... Hmm not much to say abt Reborn, cept it doesnt offer much corals but has shrimp all the time (just bot a Blood shr; saw a Harlequin-it was soooo cute...too bad it eats stars...) Anyways, i think Fl is not really enuff unless u keeping under-2ft tank, and keeping only low light corals...Its true that MH and chiller not mandatory; but they are ideal equipment nevertheless... Well, to be honest with u, i think most LFS guys lie abt things sometimes... I guess esp with all the new restrictions and their own bottom-line to think abt? So do take their words with abit of thought!

Is there any testkit which doesnt use silly color differences to get the values? I'm using a Aquamedi dKH tester, and it uses the number of drops added, to get the actual value of the dKH (u know when it changes color)!!! Now that is a better way of telling! Anyone know such a system for NO3 testkits?

Hmmm thanx for the info, Morg... Well at least i hope the dude will 'split its head' like yrs did...so das to see the white skeleton...

Sigh, my newly acquired torch coral just got the brown jelly...one of the heads died within one day...and it DOES smell!!! Btw, any chances that the dead head will grow back? It seems to be gone for good; nothing inside cept white coral bone..."SNIFF SNIFF"