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Put the rock in a bucket with a little water in the bottom just to have a little puddle of water. Then leave the rock for a few hours under darkness by covering the bucket with cardboard or newspaper. Wait for the worm to crawl out of the rock and into the bottom of the plastic bucket. The worms once they sense the rock is not submerged will migrate to the water at the bucket bottom

Do not look at the bulbs directly or work on ur tank under them for some time. Morgan's right. As long as you have a hood that does not allow the light from the lamp spill directly from the lamp it should be okay. One lamp for a 4 to 5 foot tank should be enough to flouresce the corals. They probably gets several tens of times the amount of UV A, B & C in the coral reefs day in day out. UV A is not as harmful as B & C and they are less penetrating.

Lighting shops should be selling them. They are the same lamps as those insect killer as well as insects are attracted by it.

Some reefers abroad have used them but have placed them higher farher away from the water surface. A 20w bulb would not have that much intensity to harm the corals.

If you want your corals to flouresce then put in a 20w blacklight (same one used to check currency notes). The lamp puts out UV-A 380 nm wavelenght. This is the same light they use in discos where your teeth flouresce as well.

Here's something to ponder, have you seen a shallow coral reef flats where there's only around 2 feet of water or even goes dry during high tide. Acroporas abound but colorwise similar species of acros side by side have different colors. Brown clusters mingle with purple or pink clusters. For this, diet is not a factor, nor lighting spectrum, nor intensity as they are side by side. So what's causing the different coloration???? It seems most of the marine biologists have not examine hereditary traits between acro colonies that may explain the different colorations. For you reefers out there don't expect acros to color up exactly as what in does in another tank. As long as you're getting growth then you're successful.

The green you see from the Radium is the UV component of the spectrum. Radium blue bulbs has a peak at 450 nm and it crosses the 400 nm just above the halfway from the peak. That's why you don't need actinics when you run radium. It may not be good though for clams as it does not have enough intensity at other wavelengths. At 400w radiums have only 8,000 lumens as compared to a 6500K Iwasaki 400w at 32000 lumens.

Some more symptoms: 1) when at work cannot avoid thinking of reef tanks 2) when passing through a hardware shop selling pumps will stop and ask if they sell any mag drive pumps or look for stainless stell pump. 3) when going into lighting shops to look for houselights will search first for MH lamps 4) preaching and spreading the gospel of the art of reefkeeping to office colleagues 5) when paycheck comes think right away of setting aside money to buy corals or clams

Hanna Instruments is at Kallang Junction on one of the JTC faltted factories.

U want ur acros to color up right??? <_

)Reef size (dimensions in inches) 52" x 20" x 20" 2)No. of MH. Type and Wattage 2 x 150w 6500 Iwasaki, 1 x250w Iwasaki 6500K, 1 x 250w Radium, 1 x 36w Actinic FL 3)DSB, Phleum, Denitrator or non DSB 3-5" 4)Sump ( whether you have a incorporated Refugium / Filter Media / DSB) Refugium w/ DSB, no mechanical filtration, 36" x 18" x 16" 5)Skimmer (Brand and Model) Beckett DIY 6)Calcium Reactor (Brand and Model) Double chamber DIY 7)PH levels 8.1 to 8.4 8)Alk levels ~ 9 DKH 9)Calcium levels Not tested 10)Chiller (HP and Brand) Hailea HA880 1 HP w/ Eheim 1060 11)Total System (Water exchange/circulation rate per hour) Iwaki MD55Fx for return ~ 3800 li/hr

Attaboy Morgan!!! Way to go....get 400w Iwasakis as well to really boost your tank!

I know him, I met him at sealife a few months back and actually he was the one who tipped me off on the availability of radiums at Penta. He' s still reefing....

HI Tanzy, Bob voyage! Thanks for the frag. It is now encrusting its base and the polyps have grown a little. By the time ur back again it will probably have a couple of branches.

IT seems they are using color enhanced lighting to deepen the colors of the SPS.

Be careful of solenoid valves as the coil can get too hot and burn especially no name brands. GEt industrial 3/2 solenoid valves from pneumatic equipment supplier like Bay Pneumatics or others. Do a search in " www.thegreenbook.com.sg" this is the industrial suppliers equivalent of the yellow pages.

Nope, they don't sell it nor are small gardena valves for reactors can be found....

I saw a Taiwanese brand similar to that from one of the booths during the last Aquarama. It was Azoo I think.

If u use a pump to feed your reactor ur safe as if power trips ur pump shutoff the water flow into the reactor and out of the tank CO2 will only accumulate in the bubble counter and partly inot the reactor other than that nothing flows back into the tank. THe only way that it can flow back is that u have a long duration trip that takes several hours but then most of ur livestock are dead anyway if ur tank is heavily loaded due to lack of water movement...... For maintenance just shutoff ur feed pump through a valve or power . maintenance duration is short anyway 1/2 hour at most.

rrbot also has them in his tank. Bought them around 2 months back it should be sufficiently broken in to have the regular spectrum output. RRbot, why don't u post a pic as well of your new tank?

They're only available in 150w nothing higher than that otherwise would have bought them.

Hi Alvy, No have'nt tested it yet. I think my tank would overflow. Have u tested it already?

So who wanna fly to the US???? That's what they're doing anyway to the rest of the world.....as the only uncontested superpower. Its all Osama's fault........ hang em high !!! as the cowboys use to say....

I remembered in the 60's and 70' strong typhoon was in the range of 150-175 kph centre wind. Then in the early 80's after the first big El nino the typhoon winds increased to 200 to 220 Kph and I experienced that as my island was hit by two typhoon weeks after one another. First a 200 kph typhoon hit the SW part and left a wide swath of destruction then around 3 weeks later another one with 220 kph winds hit the NE side of the island. This time you can see ricefields completely flatttened and trees w/out any leaves as well as broken branches and trunks. Bigger ones like acacias are uprooted. Coconut trees are striped of their fronds as well . You can see them leaning to one side in one direction together with the trees. In the nineties the typhoon are stronger 250-275 kph center winds are recorded for some of them. Now looks like it has gone up to 320 kph. It seems the weather is getting haywire and storms are getting stronger. That island was covered with coconuts as well as small trees and now it looks like somebody passed a vacuum cleaner over it.

I'll check the lighting catalogue for 400 watters' striking voltage. Don't experiment or you might damage the bulb.