blueheaven

I had depleted my own supply of salt just to raise the specific gravity to 1.025 Imagine everyone looking at me bringing a big pack of salt to school Anyway, will let the system stabilise first before I add in the chaeto

Pls do read up more on sandbeds as 6" is way too deep for a DSB Sand grade will affect the types of organisms that proliferate and thus, careful considerations must be in place

Yes I will be measuring the dry weight Thanks for the tip Fuel

I would love to take a pic of it but somehow the cam got overexposure even when I set the exposure to -2 Still waiting for the new cam to arrive

Those are most probably pods

You can bring it to those photo shops to have it done

Hmm that's a good idea. Didn't think of it earlier. But I may have a problem as the clump might be too light to measure. Well, I guess I will have to try first

Our sponsors have the DIY kits

I've had live mysid in my refugium for some time but they somehow only come out at night. That day when giantbicycle came to my place, while viewing the tank, a shrimp exoskeleton sort of drifted past us!!! Wonder if it was a molt or my fishes had eaten them

The frag I have is about 2 inches long with 3 branches. The purple tips, the yellowish green body and baby blue corallites are getting more solid probably due to the CoralBlue T5 directed at it. I have also noticed another of my acro colony turning baby blue body with yellow corallites and a green base. My orange polyped digitata frag had encrusted onto the rock and its growing quite rapidly with new growths from the base. The purple one however had quite stagnant growth and the polyps had become brown with a tint of green. The green staghorn is also growing very fast but I noticed the bottom branches had started to RTN probably due to the coverage from the fast growing branches at the top. My monti cap had also grown quite a bit and its starting to encrust onto the rock as well. It had grown about 1cm since I got it. That's almost the updates on the SPS colonies for now

Haha....yes and Anthony Calfo told me about that too!! According to him, he said its best to place a baffle at the water outlet so that the currents are directed downwards. However, since I got a sandbed its not that feasible so other than having strong currents at it, I make it a point to give it lightings at different angles and sort of flip to the other side everyday Currently have transferred the bunch to a much larger basket so that it got space to grow and "roll around"

Got a supposedly "latest" copy of FAMA Check it out!!!

I had a frag that could someday be like this The picture was taken from RC

Bad news today.... Went back to check the system and it was lacking in salinity at 1.015 I will need to try boost it up by this week and hook on the datalogger Guess the chaeto will have to sit in my refugium for a few more days

It will not render it ineffective but more of not achieving its full potential Its better to run it in a FR

Well you could have a dedicated pump that runs in a closed loop for currents, use a SCWD on your return or you can use wavemakers like the Tunze Streams It all depends on what type of currents you want but generally multidirectional currents would be great

The reason why its difficult to answer your questions because we do not know what you want to keep. I tell this to many people who came to our booth during Aquarama that it is almost impossible to tell you a hard and fast way as to what equipments to buy, what fishes to keep. Everyone has their own unique way to maintain his system so unless you give us a more detailed question, we cannot help you. Remember, you mould how you want your tank to be, not us. Try asking like "Are wrasses compatible with small gobies?" This will usually reap some replies

Well there are many types of sumps and it all depends what you want to use it for. Some people incorporate a refugium while some use it to hold the equipments. Its better to do more reading up on the different designs and choose one that most fits you. Here's a good webby to check out www.melevsreef.com

Check out the mashi maro umbrella

Well I think you have been confused over a very common problem that aquarists face. pH is measured as the amount of hydrogen or hydroxide ions and it is totally different from alkalinity that me measure. This is why kalkwasser, being calcium hydroxide, will raise the pH of your water as it supplies hydroxide ions. The alkalinity that we measure is the amount of carbonate and bicarbonate ions and thus is called carbonate hardness. Therefore, if you want to raise pH, adding baking soda will not work. This is why you see many people dosing kalkwasser even though their calcium levels are intact. Basically, if you top up with a good quality salt, pH would not be a problem. An important point to remember is that a one point increase in pH is actually a ten fold increase in ions and thus do not try to raise pH too fast or it will cause major stress to the tank inhabitants

Yah it is... his hair stinks though

Didn't get to take a pic with Batman so I took with this joker instead....

Actually, the pumping action of xenia is not quite an accurate to differentiate its species. I had a friend whose xenia stopped pumping when his pH went up to 8.5 and resumed the pumping action when the pH dropped. Interesting huh?

Haha...came across this old thread and was thinking.... Could tangs mistake armpit hair for turf algae? You can get free hair removal treatment too!!