blueheaven

Looking good.... And that's a sea squirt

Well, I wouldn't say that I'm a pro as I am still learning and everyone else is learning. There is no way to ever reach any extremities in this hobby such that you become a professional. Anyway, let's start with your tank. You should have drawn up a schematic diagram or have a rough idea of what your tank is going to be like before you order it. The main interest in this hobby, I believe, is to create something which best represents you and your perception. Do you want a full fledged SPS reef because SPS are the real reef building corals or do you want a full fledged soft coral reef because you see a beauty in them which others don't? After drawing up a schematic, you will have to plan what sort of equipments you want to get. It is always good to buy a product which will last you for the days to come instead of upgrading them. Are you looking into a DSB system or you want to grow macroalgae in a refugium or you want a huge tub to act as a water reservoir? All these must be in place first before you get down to plumbing your tank. As for plumbing, you want the most efficient and simple design with minimal elbows and bends. You might also consider having a swing check valve to prevent water backflow in case of a blackout. What type of fittings are you going to use and how big will your pipes be? These are some questions you have to ask yourself constantly. Always remember that you want an efficient system for your tank. Not only should the plumbing be simple and effective (check out mine in my tank thread), you should also aim for the most energy efficient and in this case it is to minimise the running time of your chiller. If you notice in my system, I have all my pumps external and all of my equipments are external too. This helps to save energy by reducing the amount of heat going into your tank. Next, you have to have a rough idea of how you want to scape your tank. As Anthony Calfo said, try to be creative and not follw other people's scaping. Who knows, you might be the first in Singapore to have a rocky overhang with non photosynthetic corals hanging upside down After your planning, look for the best quiality LR you can find. Do not be brought down by the price tag as it pays off in the future. After scaping your tank, you know want to let your tank fallow by letting it cycle for about a month and at the mean time, constantly check the water parameters. A note here is that please do not use live fish to kick start the cycle as it will be more humane to just throw in a big piece of prawn or even a sotong After your cycle is done, you will want to start by just having one or two fishes to liven up the tank. Corals such as corallimorphs are also good and hardy and reproduce fairly quickly. Always remember what you want to keep and only purchase them after thorough reading and understanding their needs. And finally after this, you are on your way

Sometimes I wonder what makes up the price of a needlewheel pump Looks pretty simple to me

Pls cooperate here Comments can come after Jireh replies

What about running a skimmer? Does that help too?

That one is beyond normal standards liao

What is the reason for your maid to throw away the bowl?

Yeah it does. That's why it's recommended to put the CR effluent to the skimmer. But if you have such a heavily stocked tank, the degassing might not be sufficient to prevent a pH drop

Wah looks fun Is there like an age limit for such things?

Getting a little bit sick of my classical guitar Maybe I should get an electric guitar with amp

The oxygen will not counter the carbon dioxide produced. The reason why we have reverse photoperiod is so that the carbon dioxide produced will be taken in by the macroalgae for photosynthesis

Ok guys, let's end this issue Let us agree that no one posts any more comments until Jireh replies

The pH drop is due to the carbon dioxide that is released when the animals respire becoming carbonic acid. I don't think oxygen plays a part in this

For that if you get about 6x54w T5s of a good brand will do but the costs for changing the tubes would be higher than running MHs You can also run 2x150w MHs and the changing costs would be lower than the T5s but it will produce more heat than the T5s Therefore, each has its own pros and cons and you can select the best that suits your budget

How about telling us what you intend to keep

I'll post the hardened part tomorrow My dad had taken the DC on a business trip again

Looks like one colony which I had some time ago (see my sig.) The one which look like ricordia

Not only that but if you split from a single pump, the pressure you want will be lost Of course the cost of running 2 pumps would be much higher....

Its soft alright, my cuke can even pick the grains out If you want a pic of the hardened part, I'll post tonight

Crumble like fish cake? I thought cyano is filmy? Anyway, found out why my CR is not giving enough kH to my tank I should increase the effluent rate as the CaHCO3 is just being recirculated in the CR with my previous drip rate Now that I've increased the effluent rate, the kH levels are beginning to climb up Now why didn't I think of that earlier

There was also some deepwater acro too at the middle tub with the hoeksemais at the leftmost tub There's no excuse of not being able to get some And the frag is currently reserved

Well Anthony Calfo did get poisoned thrice....

Looks like cyano to me too only that it is not as filmy You got such stuff appearing after you remove the sand?

Kalkwasser is known to sort of reduce PO4 but precipitating it out of solution but I'm not really sure of the actual reaction Anyway, hows your anthias Keith?

Hmmm sounds really bad and scary But the only way to have that limited control over it is to use an ORP controller right?