blueheaven

Don't really understand the Mg part bro Jervis Isn't building of stony coral skeletons a form of calcium carbonate precipitation? Or did it mean precipitation before they are formed into the skeletons

Drop joe_p a PM

New colony. Any id on this?

Not the original "The Hulk" monti but its got the same colouration

Here's what has become of that full purple monti from PR Wonder how it became like this

Some new stuff: Here's a hairy rhodactis from Keith

Hi Conrad, how are you bro? We've not kept in touch for so long, wonder how you are doing

You can lower silicate levels by doing regular water changes with DI water and running silicate absorbing media. If all goes well, the diatoms will deplete the silicate levels in your tank and then die off.

You might have a problem with your tank silicate levels

Good to hear that you've done your reading up Maybe tell us what you are not sure of and we can help you from there

Resun got produce MD70 pump?

Mine actually changed to a different coloured crown when it shed its old one

Pls pls pls DO NOT purchase these animals. It supports their poaching and it is illegal.

Well, that's hard to say cause I know reefers with 3ft deep tanks using 400w And you can go with your 4x150w first to see whether your SPS can survive on it. Do take note that lighting IMO is of the last priority when talking about keeping SPS successful

I'd go for 3x250w It will give you enough coverage and intensity even for non-SPS corals you might have at the bottom of the tank

Dose kalkwasser

Refer to my sandbed article here: http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...l=article+haven

I'm not that sure about elephant ears They'll probably eat up the clownfish

1) I think 4 is quite enough already 2) Nope, that's a common misconception. If the amount of light you give your corals exceed the saturation point of photosynthesis of the zooxanthellae, the coral will expel the zooxanthellae to lower the amount of byproduct made. This in turn causes bleaching or "melting" of soft corals under excessive light. 3) Well, if there are people who can keep SPS thriving under T5s, I don't see how meeting the lighting requirements of anemones would be a problem 4) It is good to check whether your skimmer is ozone safe first. You wouldn't want it to melt when you inject ozone into it. 5) Keep your nutrients low and magnesium levels constant. Then, seed your reef with some coralline chips. Try not to use live animals for cycling because it is very inhumane. Just let the prawn rot in your tank. It does more good than bad.

Oh, so hows your system now? Anyway, I'm planning on anthias and more tangs and probably wrasses. And I noticed that my mille has sweeper polyps!! Will try to take some pics soon.

I'll just like to add on to what acidjazz had said 1) For the types of LS you are planning to keep, T5s will suffice and adding MH would probably cause your corals to bleach rather than keep them thriving. 2) A denitrator is very hard to tune and you have to restart everytime you tune it wrongly. IMO, a denitrator is better left to the very very experienced reefer. 3) Save yourself the cost of a CR and get it only when you plan to keep stony corals 4) If you want to employ a DSB, do take note that it requires a lot of maintenance and prior knowledge. If done correctly, it will function very well. 5) This depends on what type of scaping you want to make. Using the "amount per litre" guage is very inaccurate. 6) What are black mollies? A type of fish? Well, you do not need to use dead prawn if you don't want to. I've heard of people using a whole piece of squid 7) UV sterilisers have its pros and cons so you need to weigh them first before deciding. Hope this helps

If your tank is not long, go for 2x250w instead Your tank size really does matter

Haha my pockets are not deep at all (trust me ) I think the only time I'll get the IKS is probably if I cheong work during the holidays

Oh and I forgot to add, I'll be beefing up my system soon to handle a massive influx of waste because I am going to seriously stock up on the fishes. That IKS set that Reef Depot is promoting now is just too iresistable!!!

Rowa should be able to reduce silicates to some extent but I think that bulk of it still comes from the water we top up. But just to sidetrack a bit, do you guys know that diatoms cannot live in the wild without water currents? Their silica shell is so heavy that if there is no water movement, they'll sink to the dark depths and die because there is no light