blueheaven

This topic had been discussed before and bro Gouldian even brought it up during the Anthony Calfo seminar. Basically, you must know how and why this seems to work first. By adding sugar, you are actually providing a source of food for the bacteria itself and this causes a temporary nitrate drop due to the extreme growth of bacteria. Note that in this case, we are talking about the anaerobic heterotrophs as they can't make their own food. When the bacteria grows out of hand, quorum gene sensing will cause the bacteria to release toxins to lower their population and thus they become pathogenic. This is the reason behind the sudden drop and rise of nitrates when you add the sugar. If you want to effectively control nitrates, its best to do extensive research on the methodology you are using and let nature do the rest. Do not try to play god by attempting to raise the bacterial populations

I find it so cool man. Now I got about 3 flesh in my preservation bottle I seem to have a lot of those moon snails in my tank. Think they hitchhike and then overpopulate in my tank

I got it from HV Anyway, it took a totally inexperienced me an hour and half to finish it

I am using Aquaz Actinic and AquaLight CoralBlue I sort of tilted the reflectors of the CoralBlue to shine towards my SPS as it is 20000k and I hope it will help in colouring

I just sit them on the bracing Its a perfect fit so its pretty stable

They're so darn bright, its comparable to my 150w MHs

T5s just came in!!!!

This is my one and only blackie

See how it sort of curls around?

Hi guys, I want to share this strange occurance that I had seen from my snails Was trying to pick out some snails that had been grazing on my chaeto when under my constant agitation, it dislodged its lower half and fell off. The part that was dislodged still wriggled for some time before it finally stopped moving. Never had I seen such an occurance before and its not an isolated incident because the next snail I picked did the exact same thing!!! Here is a pic of the dislodged part

Its good to keep this at the back of your head: Corals expel their zooxathellae at 30 degrees celcius Your fan will only provide a heat loss through evaporation and therefore, the temperature will fluctuate quite often. When temperatures fluctuate and coupled with your addition of top up water which also changes the water conditions, your corals will get stressed very easily. As hobbyists, we should not only aim for coral survival but more of coral thriving and reproducing or growing in our systems. And as mentioned, a sump bears numerous advantages from filtration to increased water volume to a quarantine or even a frag growout. The combinations are endless and its definately worth the investment

Yeah i remember you...Henry right? The guy who passed the glass samples to the SRC booth Would be great to see how your tank will look like with the diamant

Is your water yellowish or it is just the lights? Anyway, I like the way to do the crevices using branches

Our sponsors carry them

Yeah and then paste on some photos of your tank (once its set up) on it to totally hide it

You can try DIYing your T5 set IMO, PLs are too expensive to change and they are not as bright as a good T5 HO

Hi guys, I have embarked on a mini project to dedicatedly grow chaetomorpha. In the system, I will add nutrients mainly iron, magnesium, nitrate and iodine. I will also be monitoring the rate of nitrate intake using a datalogger and the levels of carbonate hardness using a Salifert testkit. The products of the project will first be distributed back to the source and the remaining will be distributed amongst the club at a small fee. If anyone has any concerns or queries on certain aspects of chaeto growth and would like me to experiment on, pls feel free to post them in this thread. I will return to you on the findings once the project is done. The timespan of this project is expected to be a month but will vary according to the rate of growth of the chaeto itself. Currently I am still setting up the system and more details of the setup will be posted soon. Wish me luck!!!!

Its quite sacry though that the bacteria that I culture in the lab on LB media will actually double its population in 20mins Talk about growth!!!!!

My dad's trying to get some materials for me to mount the lights Will try to use simple materials to do an elegant support or the lights Stay tuned

Firstly, the difference in price of the rocks are due to the area that the rock is collected. If it is from Indonesia, it will be cheaper that those from Tonga. As to the quality of the rocks, usually price will make the difference but the prescence of coralline and the lack of life (ironic right?) like algaes or sponges will secure you a cured rock. Of course another way is through a reliable source which you can do a search on here As for live sand, it is commercially available and can be bought from some shops. But remember, for a sandbed to work fully, infauna is the pivotal factor which you can't find in the commercially available sand. For the question on how to see whether a sand is live, usually its stated in the packaging or else its just normal sand

IMO, its a novelty but I do not think it is good to leave it exposed to the elements like that. Btw, where do you stay? Is it near a reef?

Gonna fix them up tomorrow Hopefully my corals will like them

A more obvious difference would be that the A. percula has black blotches around the bands. As for which is more hardy, both are equally as hardy but TLC must not be compromised for a A. occelaris

You have to see to believe it

External ballast I am thinking of getting a wall bookshelf to place the 2 ballasts