dragonfly_sg

Sure will keep that in mind, thanks for the offer. And would you happen to have an Eheim 1262 pump tuck in there somewhere ..... Just trying my luck

I was thinking of experimenting going skimmer-less. In place I will do mechanical filtration and bio-logical (bio-media plus refugium). I want to grow some pods as I always wanted to keep a mandarin. But if I find that can't control nitrate then I will definitely look into a skimmer. UV is something new to me, I thought they are used to control green water as in freshwater? I will look into this, thanks for the head ups. And yes, if a disease outbreak happen in a butterfly tank, it's likely I would loose all of them. Been there

Yes you're right. Effectively I should have 6x ~ 8x if I can. But realistically my tanks about 500 litres, I was hopping to get 6x if possible that's why I am looking for 1262 (3600l/h) taking account of head loss I might not even get 6. That's why I am a bit apprehensive about down sizing the pump.

To be honest, I am those kind that needs a lot of motivation ( in simple terms lazy ) I plan to have a bigger volume with maybe 3 juv of French, Koran and Imperator. And maybe 3 butterfly or banner. Larger volume give me more buffer I hoped.

Yah, if I can't find an Eheim I probably look for something more economical. I am just very worried about pumps breaking down on me, that's why Eheim. I used to have coral chips in my previous marine tank (couple of years ago which came off at a seam), I used to get a bit worried about detritus getting in an become a nitrate sink. Thats why this round I was thinking bare bottom, unless it's better to have a sand base for angel and butterflys. And yah, I am going FOWLR for now.

I am setting up a 4'by2.5'by2' with a 3' sump. What is the minimum capacity I need for a return pump. Return height is about 1.5m/1.6m. I am on limited budget so I am looking for a used Eheim 1262 (3600l/h) but this is difficult to find, I see some 1260 (2400l/h) available would this be enough or should I stick out for a 1262? My eventual aim is to keep an Angel and Butterfly tank, so should I go bare bottom or have a layer of sand? If I have sand I was thinking 1/4" of fine coral sand, if thicker is better then I have to look for normal sand (coral sand = aragonite?? too expensive). I would like to have aragonite sand because it help to buffer the water, but ones gotta live within his means Got lotsa questions but lets starts with these first. Any other advise appreciated.

Looking for an Eheim 1262 Pump in good working condition. If you have one to let go, do let me know the age and price. Thanks.

Interested in this pump, has PM you my contact. Please contact me.

I am referring to Zoa here, the effort to do even a plain FW dip and do even a short QT for this ployp will save you a lot of work and frustration down the road. I use to believe that if the colony looks good and you get it from a good source, it should be relatively pest free and if there is any outbreak, I should be able to fix it easily. I was seriously wrong on both count. So needless to say an outbreak of Nudi happened and it took literally months and months to totally eradicate these pest and in the process of daily or alternate days dipping, moving, etc took its toll on some of the colonies, and some died. That's my 2 cents, from my own experience.

The way I do it is slightly simpler. Select a cluster of at least 3 polyps (IMO it ensure better success) near the edge and slice the mat to isolate the 3 polyps. Use the pen knife to scrap mat (and the 3 polyps) off the rock gently. When you scrape of the mat, try to scrape off some of the rock surface together so that the mat still sticks to a layer of rocks. Then just supper glue the base of the mat or the layer of rock onto a plug, new rock or the reverse of a small mosaic tile. This method work for me. Find it less destructive to the main colony.

It can get big (shell about 3.5" to 4" adult), strong enough to mess with your rock work if they're not secure and opportunistic feeder which might take (sleeping) fish and algae. (and maybe even coral?) While it's still small you can use a 1.5l pop bottle to make a trap and bait it with market prawn or fish meat.

Hi, Is anyone here currently culturing Phytoplankton? I am attempting to learn how to culture Phytoplankton and looking for advise and maybe something to seed a new culture. Or does anyone knows which LFS currently carries DT's Live Marine Phytoplankton? Thinking of using it as a seed culture. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Someone has arrange to collect in an hour. So this is close for now. Thanks.

Got dead "life" sand also.

Please bring own container.

My FOWLR tank leaked and I now have one and a half pail of "life" rocks to give away. Have to collect today or the cleaners will remove it as it's put outside my house (along corridor). Rocks is mostly fist size and out from water since Thursday. Giving up for now. My house is opposite woodbridge hospital (Institute of Mental Health) near hougang, person that can come to collect it first gets it. SMS me at 90662835 to get address. Thanks.

There is the translucent gel-like ring case and there is many eggs inside.

I got a 4" piece from Sungei Road instead, thank anyway.

Can someone advise where can I buy 6" air-con piping trunking. Thanks.

No, and you're right. The Nudi basically cause the colony of Zoa to stay close (or open just slightly). I don't know specifically how the Nudi is consuming the zoa (I assumed they are) because i can't really see the damage they are doing. I am quite sure, I over dunk one of the colony for too long in normal tap water (due to frustration) one time too many and one day the polyps started disintegrating and with this amount of water volume I didn't react fast enough I guess (my heart already "sian" half already from the weeks of Nudi fighting which I was definitely not winning). It was a total lost except one Palythoa colony (greenish brown somewhere in the middle of the picture) That was about 10 month ago. On hindsight, these are the things I would do differently (intend to restart my Pico again hopefully really soon). 1. Frag the infected colony (esp. the more expensive ones), it's easier to ensure smaller colony (7 to 9) polyps is eggs and nudi free compare to those big colony I had. 2. For those bigger colony, a 5 mins FW dip (this kill the babies and adult, you can see them falling out the colony like snow when you invert the colony and shake it under the FW after dipping for 2 or 3 mins.). Next, dry the whole colony in air for about an hour, this should dry up the gel like sac thingy that the Nudi eggs are laid in and hopefully the eggs can be killed in this way. My thoughts (someone also mentioned in this discussion) is that in nature Zoa are from the lower region of the tidal zone, so in "very" low tide they do get exposed to air for a short period of time. This is probably nature's way of getting rid of this pest. Anyway for expensive colony, I would probably do option one (for backup )before trying option two . BUT prevention is still better than cure, so do FW dip for new colony and do a visual inspection for egg sac if possible. QT is best if you have the space and spare equipment. Get a wrasse like the six line, and even if one or two nudi get pass everything you've done, the wrasse will hopefully pick it up.

Nudi are a problem and if you happen to hit an infestation, it'll take alot of time and the stress of FW dip also takes its toll on the Zoa. Wrasse do work but wrasse like the Canary are day worker (sleep in the sand at night) and the nudi mostly are most active at night. The worst thing is that with a small Pico like what I had, you can't put too many fishes in it and wrasse have never been know to be friendly within it's own species anyway, especially in such small enclosure. Fishes also do not disturb nor eat the eggs within the gel-like casing. Incidentally I notice nudi infect Zoanthus more and I seldom see them on my Palythoa. Attached are the picture of the type of Nudi that infect my Pico which incidentally crashed after a colony went south after a nudi infestation.

Near NE line Serangoon Station. 10 mins walk along Upper Serangoon Road.

Found it. Got 3 Bannerfish from there last Sat.

Thanks guys.

Actually that's what I did, but the guide with google map put Ah Beng as 16 Pasir Ris Farmway 2, which is where Ericsson Pet Farm is, so I a bit confuse liao.