tanit

Yes that my plan I try to control it as much as I can. Anyway now I running both one side MH one side led. Btw now my MH bulb is around 8-9 inch above water is it to high?

Sorry for PO4 should be 0.015 as I double up water and test regent. Any recommend where can I get Hanna PO4 meter and what is proce range.

Hi All Need some advice from all of guru here. After 3 years of reefing I just fall in to darkside by going to SPS for the pass 5 months. I was using LED ligh(250W MH equivalent). I have no question on sustain of SPS as I can see PE and new grown some was growth very fast like red and green monti cap. But for some Acro,What I found is Majority of each colony was browning except the new growth that color up but base still brown. First I confident that this should not because of water parameter as all parameter was in control and quit stable. NO3 -> ~0.2 By Salifert PO4 -> ~0.15 By Salifert KH -> ~8 By API Ca -> ~420 By Salifert Mg -> 1300 By Salifert Note: I am using FM ULNS and dose trace element through dosing pump. And this my thread for tank condition -> I am just switch back From LED to MH for some experiment. I go for 250W as I just got deal from reefer and to be fair compair with LED set that I have. I will track the progress and see outcome after 1 Month (Not sure is this time given enough any recommend???) However I got some question on 1. Advice on Photo period for MH per day (My current setting 7 Hrs and 4x80W t5 7 Hrs Both is overlap. total should 9Hrs/Days) 2. What reccomend hight of MH bulb to water surface water. In parallel I also explore on 400W MH. (This is not about to keep SPS at the sandbed. But for amout of light that will push throug to surface and for SPS light loving on top of the tank) - Is 400MH giving alot more heat compare to 250W? - What (Generally) is photo periode for 400W compare to 250W? (Shorter periode?) - What is hight of Bulb to water surface? ( It's should be higher than 250W right?) - I read on some thread that if using good e-ballast on 250W can push PAR to same level of 400W on common ballast (Same reflector and same bulb). Is this true statement? As if this true it's better to go for good brand of ballast insated of go for 400W.(Event price of good brand will be 2 times more) For help in advance

To calrify

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1. Red monti cap 2 Pcs 1 big (Around 7" across x 5 -6 " wide )@ $25 2. Red monti cap and lime green around 4-5" across @10 SOLD

UPz

So far I use it for my tank it no probelm 1 of them is more than 2 years. I had change wet side few months back now still going strong. Yes this wave maker cannot aim for target direction. But the flow it very wide. It's good wave maker I must say.

Hi all I have few frag of monti cap for sale anyone interest can contact me at 9730 2323. FCFS basis collection at woodlands 1. Red monti cap 2 Pcs 1 big (Around 7" across x 5 -6 " wide )@ $25 2. Red monti cap and lime green around 4-5" across @10

For water in sump look quite high to me, You can test like bro Solo77 says. And you can do trick by drill small hole on return pipe at water level. it will help to stop water to suck back to sump. What is yellowish that you mean?

I see. As confusing part are there is iodine concentrate and the Potassium iodine for both dosing iodine but set difference in usage.

In my case what I observed not just fead off of purple on moti (both digitata and cap) Specialy for one of my lengsy frag at rim it look like it rotten. Not sure is it like so since K was low from the test so I dose it try to bring back to optimum level. For iodine I currently followed balling light with Ultra trace. One more question. From Zeovit I saw 2 product that related to Potassium (K balance and Potassium iodine). Anyone know what is diff. After read brife explain it seem to do same think to improve blue and purple color.

What I understand is lack of potassium lead to loss of blue and purple intensity in sps reduce in grow rate. So I see purple in some sps drop so decide to try to boost up potassium. Now I decide to go for ultra easy K. I will slowly increase as overdose can kill all coral also.

Hi all I would like to seek some help here. I just got Potassium test kit and found it on low side ~300. Not sure is this reason why some purple on Monti digitata and lengsy fade off. So I decide to dose potassium. Currently I use ultralith for ULNS anyone know can be mixed with additive from zeovit like K+ or any another brand to recommend. Thanks in advance

I have one for borrows let me know if you want

Then if you want MH, I would say 150w as it more common used and should be enough for some sps, or another option of 6 - 8 bulb of t5

What are your plan or currently have in your tank?

Just few point from my exp: DI unit that sell in market now it will pass through carbon then resin so almost all of con terminate element will be absorb by resin through deionization process. While RO/DI will passthrough RO unit to filter out most of con terminate compound through reject water then to DI unit to absorb remaining of element. Both can get pure water, I think depend on volume of water that require. If you need to filter a lot of water I would say RO/DI unit will better for long run.

New type of lighting is being test for aquarium look very interresting From Advance Aquarist.com Plasma Arc lighting from Aqua Illumination Plasma arc lighting is such a new technology that we are surprised to already see a prototype plasma arc light running on a reef tank. Although the plasma arc light from Luxim only hit the mainstream press in the spring of 08, the pioneering techies over at Aqua Illumination couldn't wait to get their hands on the first round of developing kits for the plasma arc light so they could start pushing the envelope. Plasma Arc Lighting was developed by Luxim Corportation, the same manufacturer of many of the better high-ouput LEDs. The Plasma Arc lamps are fully dimmable and the 250 watt pill can put out up to 140 lumens per watt which is twice the efficiency of compact fluorescent lamps and still a good deal better than the 90-110 lumens per watt of high performance LEDs. The plasma arc light is similar to a metal halide lamp in that the bulb is made up of a small, gas and metal halide filled inner envelope but the similarities end there. The plasma arc lamp is nothing but this little glass envelope and it has no contacts or additional components like a metal halide lamp. Instead, the plasma arc light sits in a small driver which acts produces electromagnetic and radio frequency (RF) waves. The RF waves are directed towards the center of the plasma arc lamp where they vaporize the argon and metal halides and voila, light spills forth. One of the few drawbacks of plasma arc light is that the efficiency of light output and the color spectrum emitted is variable across it's power range and they seem to shift color as they are dimmed. We don't expect to see any production models announced any time soon but as it stands, we are just excited to know that the Plasma Arc light is already logging some time growing aquarium corals. And this is more info in glassbox design http://glassbox-design.com/2009/aqua-illumination-luxim-plasma-light-emitter-impresses-with-spread/

Reserved pending collection on weekend

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