weileong

But very soon your fake sandbed also will be covered by coraline. Unless you buy a lot of sea urchin.

A little here but guess reply here better. Just found the culprit. I checked the colony carefully and found some holes at the base, if you also look at the photo properly you'll see some holes (green in color) and also part of the base appears to be bleached, they are not bleached but rather "tunnels" below it. I dig and follow the tunnel and it eventually lead to this. Didn't know how it got into the colony or maybe it came with it?

Less than $50.

What is the color of the body?

Before I converted to BB system, I had a few SPS at the bottom (1.5ft to 2ft down) and there's sufficient flow for them. But that is with 3 tunze 6100 and one RD (split into 2 outlet) running. Now all my SPS high high up.

Ocean Planet. 31, Oxford Road, S(218813) Tel: 6294 6056 Mon 4pm – 8pm Tue – Sun 1pm – 8pm

If you look at the photos from my tank, the wavemakers and return piping are always higher than the SPS You should say "kudus to those guys" as I am still trying very hard to make my SPS color up. My tank having (3x6100, pulsing between 50-100%) 27,000 l/h + (RD 12,500 l/h) 8000 l/h (after headlost of 2m) + tunze 6080 8000 l/h and that gives me 43,000 l/h total 65x turn over for net volume of 660 litres.

Use your hands to feel the current and make sure no direct current hitting your SPS. Anyway after head lost your return pump lesser flow than 3400 l/h and 8000 l/h already.

Caught the chevron doing it's job. Didn't know it's toilet trained

Yup.... most mediciation are crap and useless. You end up kill your fish instead of the ich and at times people treat too late. The proven methods are hyposalinity or copper.

Why not go with commercial units

Another view.

Slight rescape on left side.

My pink milepora I placed abt 2ft down and between my 2x250W BLV 10kk MH and no problem with PAR, it still color up nicely. How's your water parameter? Maybe not stable kH.

Have abt 5 frags to give away. Thin body branching type. Bought from PR many months ago, currently brown due to lack of lights. But under strong lights it is purple tips. Too many frags, no space to keep, glue already also waste my $$ on the gel. Pls PM if interested, collection at Haig Road either today 4th June and 5th June only. No photos avaliable.

Aiya run 1 200mV ozone with ORP controller should be better.

The theronts (free swimming) stage last for abt 24hrs and after that if they can't find a host they will die off. Leaving your main tank fishless 8 weeks is good enough, no need to waste $$$.

I think the file size might be too large that's why you cannot post, better check with the mods.

Ian, no worries at all. From all those that has posted in this thread so far, all are cool headed and post based on facts and without getting too personal unlike some who place their reputation and experience on something they firmly believe, only to slap their own faces later when they turn their backs on it

Agreed, that's why after BB system I monitor the pH and kH/Ca of my tank carefully If these parameters especially kH not stable then SPS also go haywire So far so good, kH and Ca remains pretty stable at 7.4 and 430ppm respectively.

Scarab, I fully agree with you. Nowadays there are just too many "internet reefers" around. They read something on the internet and then think they know everything. If you asked if they had practical experienced with what they have posted then the answer is a big "NO". Some don't even have any tank photo to show at all. Ian, thank for sharing with us. I hope you do not have any hard feelings as all these are just friendly exchange of information. But you make the assumption that PO4 will raise again. You already know that running a BB system with good flow and less dead spots will allow detritus to be removed compared to using a DSB system where they will all settle down and eventually lead to leaching of PO4. Is it too early to just assume that PO4 will surely rise again? Am I right to say the DSB is leaching PO4? It doesn't matter where is the source of the PO4. We want to eliminate the cause of the nutrients problem. It can be easy to keep a fishless tank but if you have a choice, do you like a dead SPS/coral only tank or a tank with fishes and sps/corals? This is all about removing the nutrients before they have a chance to accumulate and end up causing all the problems. Silicates is not removed by RO process so had to be removed with DI resin and silicates do not register any TDS counts. However this can be solved by using DI resins that change color when they are exhausted. So far no nuisance algae problem in my tank even when the DSB is running just that I find 0.06ppm of PO4 is too high for my liking.

The Rio is vibrating due to the back pressure so probably after changing to this new toy, the rio will still vibrate. You might like to consider changing the rio to something else that don't vibrate instead.

By itself, it can't but I used the "Timo web" software and link it to a old laptop. This software can send you status report via email and this email can be send via M1's email -> SMS service. The time duration can be configured.

I never post the equipment hor lol. Now I configure it to send me an SMS when the main tank temp exceeds 28.50deg and to shut down the lights if temp hits 28 degs.

pH of CR. Now CR only run from 4pm to 2am, 10hrs a day. Main tank lighting period from 12noon to 10pm. This is supposed to help prevent the main tank pH from crashing too low due to the CO2 in the effluent.