weileong

That will reduce the lifespan of the tunze.

Yes keep the rowa running. I would dose kH slowly to restore the kH back to your former levels.

Solution A. Wool will restrict the flow eventually and lead to flooding of the collection cup. Solution B. Will work only if the "pipes" (with green arrow) is of sufficient size so the water flow rate thru it is slow giving sufficient time for the bubbles to rise and burst at the water surface.

I catch one hairy crab last night too. End up throw into my FOWLR for my trigger

This will work better but you need to ensure that the top level of the box is at the same level as the water surface so no water fall effects when the water flow from the box into the sump. The box needs to be as large as possible. The idea is to give time for the bubbles to float up to the surface. The best way is still with a properly designed baffle system that is wide enough for the flow. Normally a down-up-down configuration works best, we're not talking abt a baffle wide of 1/2 or 1" but 3-4" per baffle.

Ian, this guy is very secretive, in fact those are the best shots I could obtain and it only comes out at night. Thought someone could shed some light on it. I guess it was not harmful.

After the lasak har lol.

Did you perform the test under the same lighting conditions? If different lighting conditions then it might explain the difference in the results.

Any experts?

did you measure the PO4 of the water coming out from the FR? The rowaphos might be exhausted already. Frags are no issue but let my fingers recover first

Look at that green efflo, yummy

that is caused by drop in kH. There's some discussion of this in RC quite sometime ago.

when the pump is placed externally, lesser heat is tansferred to the water. Even iwaki transfers heat to the water too.

yes it can but you have to try clean the area of the LR first then put more super glue gel. Once the super glue gel touch the water a skin will be form and then you push the frag with the super glue gel onto the LR then twist a bit to break the skin. Then hold for a few secs and that should do the job.

Not really lar, in the forum that time got pple review until so good so I thought it's good. I got a lot of stock of deltec epoxy at home so didn't bother to try the ###### brand until that day went to another reefer place he bought some to try to stick it to his LR. No matter how we tried it just won't stick at all. Maybe it's a bad batch. Then we tried the deltec one and it sticks perfectly until today the red milepora colony still "hanging" in the air despite tunze TS24 (24,000 l/h) blowing onto it.

After taking into account the head lost, the flow might be at most 2000 l/h or even lesser. You could test by turning off the Atman pumps for a few hrs and see if they are contributing to the heat or is it caused by the chiller which is older now and needs servicing.

If you do apply hyposalinity treatment then you have to drop the salinity slowly, pls refer to the pinned up topic, how to apply hyposalinity treatment in this section for details. There's another method known as the transfer method where everyday the fishes are transferred to a new tank I had not tried this method out but I think if this is used in conjunction with the hyposalinity method it might reduce the time needed. You might be able to clear the ich in 2-3weeks instead of 8 weeks.

Do a search thru and see if AquaPharm's medication works or not Hopefully you won't learn from the hardway, save your fishes before it's too late, either hyposalinity or copper based medication are proven methods of saving your fishes. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...hlite=aquapharm

I got a pair living in the pink birdnest don't break up the couple lei, hint hint that came from PR so maybe you go PR display tank see which colony got the acro crab then buy from edwin lol. If only acro crabs can be fragged

Never jio hor?

Bro Hamannbmw, you could install a ball valve between the MD55 and beckett injector so you can just close the ball valve slightly to lower the water level for cleaning. After that just open the ball valve fully and the skimmer skim as usual, that's what I did when I was using the beckett previously.

Had been getting a lot of PM asking how to perform hyposalinity therapy, so I guess better start this thread. 1. The salinity only needs to be checked once a day while administrating treatment. Chemical filters such as carbon and Poly Filter™ can be used when employing hyposalinity therapy. 2. Alkalinity and pH tend to fall in diluted saltwater. Check these parameters daily and add a buffer as necessary to maintain the pH between 8.1 and 8.3 3. Make two water changes per day for two days, reducing the salinity about 5ppt per water change. 4. Maintaining the salinity at 16ppt or less has proven to be a highly effective treatment for cryptocaryonosis. The salinity (not to be confused with specific gravity) must be maintained consistently at 16ppt or less for the entire duration of treatment. I suggest 14ppt to allow for any fluctuations in the salinity during therapy while providing some margin for error. Salinity is best check using a refractometer which is more accurate. 5. Treatment should continue for a minimum of six weeks (eight weeks recommended) after a therapeutic salinity level has been reached. Unlike most other forms of treatment for cryptocaryonosis, hyposalinity does not target the "free-swimming" or theront stage. Hyposalinity therapy works by interrupting the life cycle at the tomont stage. Tomonts are destroyed by hyposaline conditions, thus preventing re-infection. The lifecycle of the parasite is interesting and important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish. After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again.

You meant you're going to setup your tank in such a way that it cannot be powered down without flooding your house? What happens during those unplanned power failure?

You gotta give the ###### purple one time to cure. They do stick well. One trick is super glue gel plus ###### purple epoxy, works very well for me. Few weeks ago tried the YYY white+green branded one that so many reefers tok till got dragon got tiger but end up CMI, cannot stick at all, ask bro Simon and you'll know

So probably lights too strong hor... brown start to bleach then turn orange lol. But can see very cute fellas, got chance must sai yang sai yang a bit lol.